Every time you transplant you water IMMEDIATELY this is to settle the soil around the roots for good contact and to eliminate any air pockets which can damage roots. It is also a good idea to repeat the watering a day later. After that you want evenly moist soil but soggy soil is injurious to plants.

They look the same and the Timber Press book CEANOTHUS says it is suspected that 'Victoria' and 'Skylark' are the same introduction. Without more information nobody may ever be able to establish with certainty that they are not two separate introductions that look alike. However, based on how it is put in CEANOTHUS and what I have seen sold under both names I'm inclined to use the name 'Skylark', the assumption being that 'Victoria' is a re-naming of a plant first grown as 'Skylark'. Some cultivars have acquired multiple synonyms over the years, as though myriad attempts have been made by commercial interests to appropriate them for their own use. In other cases it will not have been known that a plant already had a cultivar name.

I hope you didn't use amendments again this time. It's not recommended anymore, especially with native plants. Better to use it for a mulch after planting. As for how much, it's hard to give advice on exactly how often. Things such as soil and air temperature, humidity and soil drainage all factor in. Best thing to do, imo, is to go out there about twice a week and push a wooden dowel down into the soil at least as far down as the root ball.This would include both the root ball soil and the surrounding soil. The moisture on the dowel should tell you how damp it is below the surface. Then water accordingly. Some weeks it will be 3x or so, some once. Depends. This is assuming you are hand watering. Auto irrigation is something else, and shouldn't be used on natives anyway. Sometimes a root ball will dry out quicker than the surrounding soil, before the plant has a chance to grow roots out further. The soil in the root ball can then shrink away from the surrounding soil and a gap between them will develop. If that happens the irrigation water will just go down and around the root ball and never get it wet. Plus the soil in most root balls is high in peat and/or organic matter which becomes very hard to re-wet again, like a super dry sponge which just pushes water around rather than soaking it up. If that happens, you have to super soak the root ball several times over a couple days to get it wet again. Then back to normal watering (normal for what ever plant it is). Usually you want to give supplemental water for one year for a native plant, tapering off the frequency towards the end of fall of that year, if planted in spring. The best time to plant natives actually is late fall, then one can let the winter rains supplement also. But that's advice for you for next time.

After 3 years in the ground it is probably no longer portable, due to the kind of shrub it is. And if you move much soil out of the ground with it and place it in the planter, it will probably be too heavy for such use - particularly with this kind of shrub. Unless the soil there happens to be very sandy. In which case it is going to be all that much harder to move the shrub with an intact soil ball. This fast growing item is cheap enough that it might be a lot better to buy a small one and train it into the desired size and shape yourself. Also it may really be too late in the spring for this operation. Check by looking at the specimen, seeing if it is starting to develop. A good general rule is to end transplanting by Feb 15. Of course, there will be some late sprouting kinds of trees and shrubs that can be done somewhat beyond this point. But if you cut the roots near the time of sprouting of shoots there can be problems.