Hi Jodi, My bonsai mix has been 1:1 turface and pine bark for 20 years so I can guarantee this works. I would say that a Boophane needs to be 5-7 years old to bloom if you have ideal conditions. I buy large bulbs for 2 reasons....first, there is a huge difference betwen blooming size and specimen size.......the bulb itself is often as impressive as the leaves/flowers....I consider them architectural. In my climate I will never grow one to true specimen size....zone 6 is not ideal as it turns out ;o) The other thing is that baby bulbs can dessicate during their dormancy if kept bone-dry, whereas a mature bulb just laughs this off. For example, I have a 50+ year old monster size Boophane haemanthoides that I spent a lot of money on....I've had it 3 years now.......If I bought a 5 year old bulb I would not have this specimen in 45 years.....I have it now and I can enjoy it for the next several decades in all its glory......worth the money to me!! Next summer I will take pics of my truly massive Ammocharis.....7 inches in diameter......quite nice!! Veltheimia are awesome and easy to grow....I have 2 forms of V. bracteata now and also V. capensis as well as 1 unknown from Guy Wrinkle.....I am supposed to be getting another 4 or more variants of V. bracteata in the spring.....I love them!! Hey Han, you should check out Silverhill Seeds if you want to go the seed route. I've imported bulbs from Cameron McMaster and they have all been fantastic.....I've bought bulbs from Simply Indigenous......great bulbs.....and lately Penroc......not the same as Simply Indigenous as most people seem to believe wrongly......spectacular specimen and extremely rare bulbs from Penroc!!! I have purchased from Guy Wrinkle at the link you gave.....he sells phenominal bulbs in my opinion......rare, specimen size bulbs that are awesome!!! Good growing all :o) Dan

It will put a lot of growth on in a hurry if you just let it go. Mine has developed a lot slower than it might have because I've cut it back so many times to keep it tidy, and as you know, that has a major impact on how fast the caudex develops. Be patient about exposing the caudex because it develops faster when it's covered by soil. You CAN give the stem the ILLUSION that it has thickened up by letting the top grow wild then cutting it back hard to shorten the stem. Decreasing the ratio of ht to width is how bonsai artists instill the look of great age and proportion into their plants, but I have a feeling that sense of proportion is going to fall by the way when you start exposing that fat caudex. ;-) I've had my plant for about 7 years. I bought one on Ebay and they sent 2. I grew both for 3-4 years & decided I don't need 2, so I gave one away to a friend who enjoys succulents but couldn't find the time to keep her bonsai on track. I talked to her last a little before Christmas & she said her plant is doing well & she just moves it indoors in front of a west window when the weather turns in fall. If I didn't have bonsai to keep me continually challenged, I'm sure I'd have an extensive collection of succulents, just because there are so many that are unique ..... and unique is where it's at. Have fun! Al

Yes, I grow many South African bulbs including Lachenalia. They do well and bloom for me but I have a greenhouse and they are in high light conditions. The bulbs have to be kept quite dry when they are dormant.

I was under the impression that boophane disticha is a summer grower. Growing in northern michigan in the winter may be a problem. Although I do have a great south window that gets sun all day in the winter. I guess that I shouldn't water at all while it is leafless? Will the leaves start to pop towards winter without water? I'm in panic mode now, I thought I knew this plant pretty well, guess not. Please help.