Ken, Way to stick with the topic! Greatplainsturf, You say you plan on going back later and removing the top burlap and you should. I'd leave the stakes for now as long as they are loose enough to allow some movement. I understand you get high winds there. Maybe you addressed this and I missed it but, will the seller not honor the warranty if you remove the burlap now? Is that the issue? Are these the seller's planting instructions or are they warranty terms? It might be worth asking. If seller won't replace the tree if you take off the burlap and most of the basket and it dies, and that's a concern, then follow his instructions and leave all in place till the tree leafs out. If seller ok's it, I'd redig around the rootball, cut off as much wire and burlap as you can and backfill. I think the pipe needs to go. I've transplanted a few trees this size with my better half, a strong and determined German, a pickup with ramps and a dolly. I was out of my mind and would never do it again. Smaller is better for oaks with taproots. I understand why you did it, that's an impressive tree. Barb

This may be the study from CA referred to above. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/03601238609372539 Chemical residues during screening, composting, and soil incorporation of cotton gin waste W. L. Winterlin Department of Environmental Toxicology , University of California , Davis, CA, 95616, M. M. McChesney Department of Environmental Toxicology , University of California , Davis, CA, 95616, S. R. Scnoen Department of Environmental Toxicology , University of California , Davis, CA, 95616 & J. N. Seiber Department of Environmental Toxicology , University of California , Davis, CA, 95616 Journal of Env. Science & Health, Nov 2008 Abstract The behaviour of residues of five chemicals was studied during aerobic and semi‐anaerobic Composting of both whole gin waste and the fines fraction. Propargite, methidathion, and chlorate residues declined significantly during both composting treatments while DEF and paraquat were stable to composting, when composted gin wastes were amended to field soil, residue levels were generally very low to undetectable in the soil, indicating little potential hazard for a composting‐amendment operation. *** This is the general assumption I usually make: residues may not be zero but with the exception of the known persistent herbicides (picloram and chlorpyrifos, IIRC), pesticides generally break down in the compost to the extent that the residue is either not detectable or low enough to have no observable effects after mixing the compost into soil. This goes for cotton waste or anything else.

Okay Josh I'm going to try and post a pic directly on here so you don't need the link to click on, I just learned how to this so I'm all proud about it. I hope I remember.There it is. It been 3 years from the acorn. Dax sent me a handful of huge Burr oak acorns, and I kept the nicest seedling, this one. It has corkiness on it's lateral branches also. The trunk is still smooth. He has sent me a handful of normal sized Burr oak acorns this fall which I've sown in another area, so we'll see how things go with that, they'll likely produce a smaller or less vigorous tree, but, i will be keeping the most vigorous seedling from the smaller acorns. The area where this tree above is seems to have thicker grass etc, but so does the area where the smaller acorns are at, so we shall see.

Hello, Jane! You've gotten some good feedback. Not everyone has to spend a lot (of money, ingredient selection, time, techniques) to get "a cup of coffee." A lot of people seem to be able to be satisfied with DD or Eight O'Clock, or even Starbucks ("Charbucks" as one Boston brewer used to dub it). Whatever floats your boat. I am fairl particular about my coffee (for my taste and "needs"). I use a Roncilio Rocky burr grinder with pour over drip. We get whole roasted beans from a somewhat local roaster. The Rocky grinder can be adjusted and gives a consist and grind and does not heat up the beans. Some while ago I used a blade coffee mill. Then I bought a conical burr grinder much like the $100 Bodum you're looking at. With certain types of coffee beans, the conical burr grinder gave an inconsistent grind and with anything but a small amount of non--oily beans, the coffee grounds would heat up (that destroys flavor). Espresso and snarly roasted beans can tend to be oily. All burr grinders need to be kept free old or previous dats coffee grounds and fines to give the freshest results. The Rocky is easy to keep clean. It makes quiet and easy work out of medium roasted beans. I wasn't totally for DH springing for such a robust and costly grinder, but now I'm glad I did agree with his selection. As you have stated that you buy coffee for a low price, and it doesn't seem but low-end, and you add a lot of enhancements to it or keep it for a few days after brewing, I doubt that you are going to notice any difference between your blade grinder and the conical burr. I think that with low grade coffee, you could use the best or most expensive grinder and not notice any difference. For me, the wonderful fragrance and flavor of coffee is because of its many volatiles. These give the full rich high notes and kind body -- and they are not long lasting. Older or inferior (inexpensive) beans are pretty much lacking in these, as is brewed coffee kept hot or even in a thermos for very long. I'd still pack a thermos full for a boat trip or picnic, but I would not expect it to be the most satisfying cuppa. (But if you've been on a boat for hours and get hungry, thermos quality coffee and a sandwich or cookie can taste might wonderful. I don't care for those K makers and cups because of the technique and usually inferior pre-ground coffee. So, my suggestion is that if you're satisfied with the sort of brew you're getting now, save your money. Spend $5 on a very fine mesh sieve to catch any escaped or fine grounds as you pour your cup. Wonder if I can get $30 for my used conical burr grinder on CL or eBay ;)