Dawn, what insecticide you use to kill gypsy moths. Is the insecticide labeled for fruit tree. If not, you should not eat the fruit. if the insecticide is good to use on fruit tree, spray a month ago is too long to protect your tree. Good cover spray work about 10-14 days depending on how much rain you get. Also, to help spray stay on longer, you need to use sticker like Bonide Turbo mixing in with the spray. There is a good chance that insects Oriental Fruit Moth or Plum Curculio punctured the skin of those peaches to lay eggs which will hatch to be larvae that move inside ppeaches to feed. Fruit will drop and when you cut them open, you will see tumpnnels or even worms inside. Check those fruit that have clear gel carefully to see if there is tiny holes on the area. If so, pick them off. Throw them out with trash. Do not let fruit lie around under the tree or compost it. You will help their life cycle that way. Spray with insecticide labeled for peach trees.

Drew, as it happens I was WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. It is not a Corymbia at all, but Eucalyptus cladocalyx (sugar gum). Apparently it is common in California, but being native to South Australia, I've never seen one. I checked it with my expert friend Gus from Spain on Hardy Eucalyptus Board. The capsules are actually too narrow for C. maculata, even though they are the same general shape. Apparently the buds of sugar gum grow in clusters of 7 or more from a single point, which then becomes a peduncle as it grows out from the stem. The bark is also not a perfect match with C. maculata, being not as closely mottled. Here is a useful link:http://bp2.blogger.com/_3uQiDL3c53s/SJNAmFMNTRI/AAAAAAAAAzM/9qSdoNoarn4/s1600-h/GIT_Forestry_Eucalyptus_Identification_Sugar_Gum.jpg

When you say " 3D landscapes", do you mean pictures, or do you want to work with real plants?: I am assuming you mean pictures, and here is my list: (I am most familiar with eastern Australian plants.) 1. Eucalyptus, Angophora and Corymbia. ("Gumtrees") These are all very similar plants. There are more than 700 species of them in Australia, and almost every Australian landscape has several species,(and Australians love them) so they are essential for your picture. You should use at least one smooth-barked species such as E. camaldulensis (River Redgum). There are many of these growing in Italy, but see some paintings by Hans Heyson for a more typical Australian shape. They grow by rivers on open plains, and are AustraliaÂs commonest Eucalypt. E. maculata( also called Corymbia) (Spotted Gum) is very well-known, and has a tall spotted trunk. E.grandis (Flooded Gum) has a very big, tall straight creamy-white trunk. It typically grows in wet forests and needs a strong green background of rainforest foliage to look authentic. E.saligna has a typical bluegum trunk and is a big tree of the same habitat. E.papuana (ghost gum) is a well-known gumtree of the desert. See some paintings by Albert Namatjira for the setting. Of the rough-barked Eucalypts, the best known are ironbarks such as E.crebra or the blue--leafed E.melanophloia. They have black trunks with deeply furrowed bark, and would be very suitable for your picture. For flowers, the Angophoras and Corymbias are better than Eucalypts, as the flowers are held on the outside of the canopy. A.leiocarpa (Rusty applegum) is very well-known and popular. It grows in many environments including rocks where its roots make good pictures. Western Australian Corymbias are small trees with the showiest flowers. E.ficifolia is very popular and well-known. In Australia gumtree leaves typically show insect damage, and this is considered to be part of their beauty (see paintings by May Gibbs) so you should include insect damage if you are showing close pictures of the leaves. 2. Acacia (Wattles). There are more than 800 species in Australia. Typical Australian landscapes would have up to six species. The species with showy flowers are usually small. A.podalyrifolia is well-known and has blue-green leaves and grown in many environments. (A typical Australian landscape should feature plants with blue-green or silvery-leaves) A.harpohpylla (Brigalow) is a silver-leafed tree of the plains. For a typical landscape you might like to choose one wattle with phyllodes and one with leaves. 3. Grevillea. I would choose G.robusta (silky oak) which is a tree of rainforest margins, very well-known. There are more than 300 grevilleas in Australia and most are from heath environments. 4. Brachychiton acerifolius. This is a popular garden plant which drops its leaves in spring, and becomes covered with red flowers at the same time as the silky oaks are flowering. They look very picturesque together. This is a...

Darn. Thought I had a solution. Ok, so the only way to improve above surface drainage is through grading. Below surface drainage cannot be helped without mass amendments. But mass amendments raise the possibility of actually harming proper drainage if the entire site isn't amended, and even then, we're messing with the subsoil, and you just don't know what that might do. The AirTech treatment has the advantage of not dramatically changing the subsoil in different sections, which I read, Brandon7, as one of your main arguments against amending. So far, so good. The person at the company said that fissuring the soil at multiple levels and multiple areas in rings around the root zones, beginning at the actual planting hole--like some kind of Jedi version of fracking--would have the effect of improving water flow AND would introduce important microbial development which would encourage root growth outward. So I though that solved some of the problems. I think you're exactly right that we'd need to repeat the process as much as twice a year, but maybe more like every year or so. So that's a problem. But, again, you don't like amending. So I'm back at the beginning. One last thing: the person with AirTech did say that in addition to the treatment, we should come in with two inches of good topsoil and another two to four inches of mulch on top. He said that this would work its way downward. He also said that mixing 5-10% organic matter into the planting hole wouldn't be a bad thing, but it's not necessarily vital.