That was something else I have tried, as I looked again at the bottle of concentrates I have, one of Fertilome's products has triclopyr and another had dicamba along with the 2,4-d. As I am watching the backyard these past few days, it is all yellowing and the bindweed is slowly withering. This was the area that I hit with a concentrate of 2,4-d and metsulfuron methyl. I was told it may take time but would work. Our biggest problem in central and western Kansas is that the field bindweed has become resistant to glyphosate and 2,4-d. I guess just had to continue on it, but now it is trying to poke in where some has established, hopefully the bermuda will keep it down, plus I spot treat whenever I see them. Today I did spread Tall Fescue underneath my tree along with some bermuda though it likes sun better, but I have more of it than others. Prior to doing that I had spread phosphorous in the area I tore up, worked the soil with my weasel and gave it some water, then today sowed the seeds, and applied scotts liquid turf grower. This particular area I had already gotten the weeds to die off, and it was loaded with earthworms. It was tough to level out due to the steep grade between my house and my neighbor, we'll see how it turns out since it is a shady area.

I've seen kudzu upclose in only one location, but it had made a jungled mass of greenery covering some shrubs and trees. I've certainly seen it growing up all kinds of structures in other places though. One thing that's good about it -- it's a legume so it really enriches the soil! Kudzu has some other beneficial uses, too, including the animal fodder you mention. From Wikipedia: Animal feed Kudzu can be used by grazing animals as it is high in quality as a forage and greatly enjoyed by livestock. It can be enjoyed up until frost and even slightly after. Kudzu hay typically has a 1518% crude protein content and over 60% total digestible nutrient value. The quality of it decreases, however, as vine content increases relative to the leaf content. Kudzu also has low forage yields despite its great deal of growth, yielding around two to four tons of dry matter per acre annually. It is also difficult to bale due to its vining growth and its slowness in shedding water. This makes it necessary to place kudzu hay under sheltered protection after being baled. Kudzu is readily consumed by all types of grazing animals, yet frequent grazing over 3 to 4 years can ruin stands. Thus kudzu only serves well as a grazing crop on a temporary basis. Medicine The Harvard Medical School is studying kudzu as a possible way to treat alcoholic cravings, by turning an extracted compound from the herb into a medical drug. The mechanism for this is not yet established, but it may have to do with both alcohol metabolism and the reward circuits in the brain. Kudzu also contains a number of useful isoflavones, including daidzein (an anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial agent), daidzin (a cancer preventive) and genistein (an antileukemic agent). Kudzu is a unique source of the isoflavone puerarin. Kudzu root compounds can affect neurotransmitters (including serotonin, GABA, and glutamate) and it has shown value in treating migraine and cluster headache. It is recommended for allergies and diarrhea. Research in mice models suggests that Kudzu is beneficial for control of some post-menopausal symptoms such as hypertension and diabetes type II. In traditional Chinese medicine, where it is known as gé gēn (Chinese: 葛根), kudzu is considered one of the 50 fundamental herbs. It is used to treat tinnitus, vertigo, and Wei syndrome (superficial heat close to the surface). Starch The roots contain starch, which has traditionally been used as a food ingredient in East Asia. Other uses In the Southern United States, where the plant has been introduced with devastating environmental consequences,[9] kudzu is used to make soaps, lotions, jelly, and compost. It has even been suggested that kudzu may become a valuable asset for the production of cellulosic ethanol. Control For successful long-term control of kudzu, it is not necessary to destroy the entire root system, which can be quite large and deep. It is only necessary to use some method to kill or remove the kudzu root crown and all rooting runners. The root crown is a fibrous knob of tissue that sits on top of the root (rhizome). Crowns form from vine nodes that root to the ground, and range from pea-size to basketball-size. The older the crown, the deeper they tend to be found in the ground because they are covered by sediment and plant debris over time. Nodes and crowns are the source of all kudzu vines, and roots cannot produce vines. If any portion of a root crown remains after attempted removal, the kudzu plant grows back. Small kudzu crown severed from root using flexible pruning saw. Mechanical methods of control involve cutting off crowns from roots, usually just below ground level. This immediately kills the plant. Cutting off vines is not sufficient for an immediate kill. It is necessary to destroy all removed crown material: Buried crowns can regenerate into healthy kudzu. Transporting crowns in soil removed from a kudzu infestation is one common way that kudzu "miraculously" spreads and shows up in unexpected locations. Close mowing every week, regular heavy grazing for many successive years, or repeated cultivation may be effective, as this serves to deplete root reserves. A terribly invasive vine but not quite as difficult to get rid of as bindweed!

Okay, hold on. I had to check out this phenom grass seed. What. A. SCAM. Let's look at what's in it: TEN PERCENT KY BLUEGRASS. They measure those percentages by weight, not the number of seeds. Bluegrass seeds are WAY tinier than fescue seeds, so your TTTF mix will actually turn out to be, what? Thirty or forty percent bluegrass? TEN PERCENT RYEGRASS. The most disease prone of all the cool-season grasses, added to commercial mixes because it germinates very fast and makes people feel happy. SIXTY PERCENT of two types of fescue. they don't say what the remaining 20% is. So your 10% ryegrass will germinate very quickly -- yayy! Then your 60% fescue will come in. Finally, if there is any room left or any sunlight available to the soil; surface, your 10% bluegrass will germinate. Or not. There might already be too much competition. In any case, your bluegrass in that mix will never produce roots that go down that deep. Never ever ever.

Depends if you are expecting good neighbors or bad. If the latter, then maybe a blackberry patch with sickle-shaped thorns is in order. (ha,ha) Seriously, a lot of your prairie grasses put down deep roots, much deeper than you might expect. With the nutrients and moisture of the leach bed, root invasion into the leach bed is definitely possible. Where you live, your leach bed lines might be below the frost line at probably 3' to 4' down. Around where I live, I've seen trees in close proximity to leach beds for years with no collapse of the leach bed system. However, you will know if you have any roots building up in the system with an increase in the number of times that your septic tank will need pumped out. Prairie Cord grass is not that tall as to screen out the neighboring house. What is the purpose of the grass that you want?