Okay, hold on. I had to check out this phenom grass seed. What. A. SCAM. Let's look at what's in it: TEN PERCENT KY BLUEGRASS. They measure those percentages by weight, not the number of seeds. Bluegrass seeds are WAY tinier than fescue seeds, so your TTTF mix will actually turn out to be, what? Thirty or forty percent bluegrass? TEN PERCENT RYEGRASS. The most disease prone of all the cool-season grasses, added to commercial mixes because it germinates very fast and makes people feel happy. SIXTY PERCENT of two types of fescue. they don't say what the remaining 20% is. So your 10% ryegrass will germinate very quickly -- yayy! Then your 60% fescue will come in. Finally, if there is any room left or any sunlight available to the soil; surface, your 10% bluegrass will germinate. Or not. There might already be too much competition. In any case, your bluegrass in that mix will never produce roots that go down that deep. Never ever ever.

Don't use roundup,. It's expensive and it will kill everything it touches so you can't use it in your lawn or you'll have a dead area. I have not read all of the above threads but the best bindweed killer is AMINE. I believe the recipe is 6 tablespoons to a gallon of water in a sprayer but I could be slightly off. Just read the directions. This will kill the plant all the way to the root. Unless this is a brand new plant growing from seed, you cannot pull bindweed and get it all. It'll just keep getting stronger and stronger every time it grows back. Use Amine and it will take care of the problem. You can use it in your lawn and it will not harm the grass. It will harm other leafy plants, so wrap a plastic bag or newspaper or other barrier around the good plant to protect it and give the bindweed a good soaking with amine. It'll start dying pretty quickly. Just give it time to completely die and don't pull it up too soon or you'll stop the process and the root will start growing again. Please understand seeds can lay dormant in the ground for twenty years some times so you'll continue to have bindweed, but like I said at the beginning - in the spring when the seeds first sprout you can pull them and they won't come back. Only the established plants need AMINE. I live on a hill and face the foothills of Colorado and between me and them are miles and miles of wild fields filled with weeds and weed seeds so new ones blow in all the time. This spring I went out and found a patch of Canadian Thistle in my rock garden, where I have not had thistle for many years. I used AMINE - 1/3 cup to 1 1/2 gallons of water and the thistles have not returned. That was in May, it is now July.. Other things are sprouting in that area, so the ground has not been hurt. I just bought a jug of Amine at Paulino Gardens in Denver and it was around $45 but that is enough for several years. I've seen it on the internet in smaller containers but after you pay for shipping you might as well just go to the garden shop and get a big jug.

you definitely need to burn - work with your NRCS office - they will have contacts on who to work with to get your area burned. what area of WI are you in? you may be able to contact a local pheasants forever habitat specialist to assess your weed control and help you burn your prairie... once it gets established an occaisional burn is the only thing you will need to do - i believe a burn will suffice for the CRP program in lieu of mowing (of course check with NRCS first) ... unfortunately burning isnt going to inhibit goldenrod but it does inhibit other weeds and stimulates the bluestems and other grasses and flowers which will fill in thus making it harder for the weeds to grow. mowing until then helps keep weeds from going to seed ... check out the results the following year after a burn and then look at other options like 24D or roundup selected areas only if the burning is not effective. and yes - its very typical to notice the cyclacle pattern of your weed development... each year a different species is more prevelant than the previous year - very common situation...

You might start with posting a sign, maybe use the street name in the title or something like that. I keep wanting to make one for my yard but don't seem to get around to it. I think the biggest problem is when plants are too tall or aggressive and too many different heights, so I'd try to select ones that don't get taller than one or two feet especially close to the road or street maybe some taller stuff toward the back but even so, I think I'd stay with shorter plants. Also, plant a lot of annuals like gaillardia & Helenium annum so its a solid mass of color all season and self sowing with a lot flowers instead of a lot of green. It might make it seem a shame and therefore harder to mow that down if its ever blooming and colorful. Keep it simple, lots of repeats of massed plants of the same type in groups or swaths if possible, it looks less weedy especially to an untrained eye. The more kept looking it is, the better it will be. Wild looking, but planned. Most warm season grasses can take a couple mowings but not more from what I have read. Little bluestem stays pretty short until late summer and if the soil and moisture conditions are right it will look well behaved. I'd stay away from Joe Pye weed and other tall stuff like that. There is a median up the street from me planted in natives, its almost OK but could use a bit of TLC and selective weeding. An afternoon would make a difference. http://www.agrecol.com/Native-Plant-Sign_p_572.html