Deer attractant to spray on Knotweed?
ghoghunter
11 years ago
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fatamorgana2121
11 years agoRelated Discussions
does this mean you dont have to spray or different spray schedule
Comments (8)Austransplant- You could be right about the PC. Somehow, I have been lucky and do not yet have PC in my orchard. I don't know how this is possible as this is the 4th season with apple trees in my yard, and there are crab apples near by. Is this beginners luck? Nevertheless, I'm preparing myself (by attempting to obtain the Permethrin & Imidan) this year for that eventuality. Since they have never gotten established in my orchard, I wonder if it's simply because I bag my apples and have never let them get a foothold that I haven't seen them yet? (especially around the time just before bagging) I know my local orchards 20 minutes away have to deal with PC. If, like diseases, each variety showed more or less suceptibility to PC, it would be nice to see a chart somewhere (like they do with diseases) so that people could benefit from it. -Glenn...See MoreJapanese Knotweed (fallopia) question
Comments (12)Do you need privacy year round, or really just in warmer weather? This question is important since it decides whether you are limited to just evergreen plants. You'll still hear cars with plants; only walls or earth berms will really block sound. If you plant some along the margin of your yard and some along the road, you shoud be able to achieve pretty good visual privacy. Regardless of what you plant, for the first year plan on mulching around the each plant a couple feet out as well as watering them any time you aren't getting regular rain during the growing season. Is it really 100% shade all day or is there some sun at the beginning or the end of the day? What side of your house faces north in the photo? The quality of the shade will effect how densely plants grow. The list below are plants that will grow in part shade or high shade, though not densely, in my experience. Check out clethra alnifolia, any of the shrubby dogwoods like the red-twigged dogwoods, or native viburnums (nannyberry, arrowwood, wild raisin, highbush cranberry), many of which may be available inexpensively from your local conservation service, though if not I've provided a link below to the NH state forest nursery which will ship orders in spring. These will be small and may do better if you grow them in a nursery bed or large pot for a year before planting them out. Many of the more common rhododendrons like R. roseum elegans, Olga Mezitt, and PJM can be bought from big box stores in spring and fall in quart or 2 quart pots, and if you are lucky quite inexpensively. I bought some Olga M and PJM a couple of years ago for $8 per pot and when planted 5 feet apart they will grow together. They may not bloom too well in that much shade, but they should grow and are evergreen. If you are willing to do some propagation yourself, old-fashioned forsythia grows pretty thick and twiggy enough to provide some privacy even in winter. They root and grow fairly easily from cuttings and then grow fairly quickly. If you peg down the lower branches of the rhodies, they will root and then can be transplanted in a year or two. Some needled evergreens may grow there. We have balsam fir growing in part shade in the woods, though I am not sure if you are too warm for it. White pine may grow for you there, though it won't stay at a height to block cars after about 20 years and won't be super thick growing in shade. Regardless, start working to get rid of the knotweed now, disposing of the seeds in a trash bag, not as compost. Either cut them down constantly or apply frequent coats of herbicide whenever you see leaves so that this doesn't get out of control. Here is a link that might be useful: NH State forest nursery...See MoreUsing egg spray to keep deer out
Comments (14)I'm another satisfied long time Bobbex user, my new property has deer almost daily, often for hours at a time - they bed down on the lawn and make themselves quite at home. My issue with the Bobbex product is that it requires spraying so infrequently, often a new growth spurt will take place and I'll have new foliage I haven't noticed that is not protected and that will be munched back. It seems to be most true of roses though, and I've given up on those, I'm not going to grow them this location. My goal with this house and acre was open, welcoming, friendly to neighbors and 2-footed guests, I do not want a stockade type fence and given the steepness of the lot in back, fencing would limit my own access for maintenance from the street below. Anything over 4' across the front doesn't meet city code either, making a three sided deer fence mostly useless. I'm learning to work around them - it's been a process ;)...See Moregarlic mustard and ? knotweed ? good/bad idea to...
Comments (25)Hi Folks, I just wanted to throw in my $.02 on the subject of controlling Japanese Knotweed. This past week I spent two days removing the knotweed from hill along the side of my driveway. The infestation had been growing for about two years and spreading rapidly. In my case, the hillside that was covered in knotweed also had some plants that I wanted to save- some sugar maples, four varieties of ferns, and some viburnum, so using a foliar spray was out of the question. Instead, I used the "cut stem application" as outlined in this document: http://www.pullman-wa.gov/content/WYSIWYG/Recreation/Japanese%20knotweed.pdf The document recommends cutting the canes between the first and second node and filling the "well" with concentrated herbicide (I chose plain Glyophosphate, you choose your own poison). The document claims this method is 95% effective. Another method involves injecting the plant with herbicide using an injection tool. The upside to this method is that you don't need to dispose of the cut canes. In all, it took me just about two days to clear the hillside. I cut enough canes to completely fill my 8' truck bed two times. I'll keep an eye on the area for the next year or so in case any survivors pop up. -Josh-...See Moreseydoux
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