As the other posters have noted, your soil is unsuitable for for this plant (which should do well for you) - you haven't enough porosity, lad. Cut the soil by at least 50% perlite, or read one of the many soil discussions (look for posts with a lot of responses and make your own soil), but you've got your plants in slow-death, yet there's hope still. The pot for which these plants should be grown maybe should be only an inch or two larger than the root ball(s) of the plants. Most Kalanchoes can grow like tropicals at times, and this is one of them. You just have to have it in a more appropriate home and hearth.

Currants can be grown in the shade in our area but expect little production out of them. all the whites have failed at my house, although they are the most unique currants they fail in the carolinas. When retailers say to zone 8 they are talking about the pacific Northwest and they can grow in full sun there up to a solid zone 8 there. The blacks have produced in full sun in my yard but like the shade more the reds have never produced but are alive. The whites have all crooked, I've tried about 30 different varieties over the past 3 years and only about 8 varieties are left. I've found morning sun is key with protection from the sun during the hottest part of the day. They make great understory plants but benefit from a raised bed with a cardboard layer at the bottom to give the currants a chance to establish before feeder roots from the canopy tree invade the soil space. This also stops suckers from popping up beside your currants because you won't damage the canopy trees roots from digging in the soil. Many trees including pears, nut's, persimmons, etc will send up suckers anywhere the roots have been disturbed or exposed. Currants are also far from drought tolerant so be sure to water when the soil gets dry but avoid wetting the leaves when you do water. Ahhh the things we do to grow things out of the norm..... Good luck

From what I understand about LED grow lights from research I was doing on lighting systems about a year ago, is that, theoretically, they are the best system you can have, in that they can produce a pure blue or red light at the wavelength that is most conducive to photosynthesis. But in practical application, they tend to fall short for several reasons. One is that the high powered LEDs, such as the 2 and 3 watt LEDs, seem to have a high tendency to burn out, or fry 1/2 the circuit board so only half of the fixture lights. Jumping off that, since you cannot really replace 1/2 a circuit board or individual LEDs, when theres a problem with your 300 dollar fixture, that problems there to stay after the trivial 1 year warranty expires (and even before that Ive heard that companies are loath to honor those warranties without making you jump through hoops (they know their stuff isnt going to last)). Another is there very high initial cost per square foot of area covered relative to say MH/HPS. If I recall correctly, I remember a 300 dollar fixture I was looking at would cover a 2x3 square foot area, or 6 feet. The technicals looked tempting, even though the area was small, promising superior lighting conditions. But when looking at reviews for that product (and all other LEDs I could find), the most people were getting out of them was about 2 years; a far cry from the 50,000 hours advertised (which is why the warranties are only 1 year). I ended up getting a 600w MH/HPS set up, which covers a 4x4 area, or 2.66 times as much as the LED area for only .66 the initial cost, and so far I am, and planning on continuing to be, very pleased with it. What you could try doing is putting the light as close as it can get to the plants; one of the positives about LEDs is that very little heat is produced, making it safer than even fluorescent tubes to put the plants very close to the light source. But since your fixture is a 90 watt, Im guessing the individual LEDs are probably 1 watt or so apiece, right? That isnt going to provide much penetration power, so the light isnt going to seriously benefit anything other than the canopy of your plants. Which of course is better than nothing, but depending on your plants sizes and light requirements, the 90 watt LED fixture probably wont be making them explode with growth all on its own. Also BTW, what colors is your LED fixture using? Ive seen some crazy products that throw in orange, purple, yellow, infrared, and UV LEDs in their fixtures to make them seem "more complete" I guess, but from what I can gather, all those extra colors that are not blue/red, are mostly or completely wasted, and is just a gimmick and power sap.

Weeell, if it was doing great before but suddenly changed, then I'd look for either insects or an environment change instead of water. Sounds like it happened fairly quickly (which makes me suspect environment change). Your picture doesn't show any kind of obvious fungus, but we'd want to see below the leaves. The tips of a couple leaves are showing a blackish wilt though which could be due to over-watering and/or cold air. Perhaps if you can check carefully for insects, under leaves, along the stem etc. The Doctor Optimara site is pretty good. Barring insects: Did you possibly change it's location at all? Sometimes even a cold breeze can do this. Might not be a bad idea to take it out of the soil and carefully check to see if the roots/crown are mushy. If so, then you're probably looking at crown rot. You might still be able to save a portion of the crown (good job on grabbing a couple leaves). This is usually due to over-watering/letting it sit in water. However, if it's too cold-and it's wet as well, then it's a double whammy. If the roots and crown are OK, it won't hurt to repot it in new soil. Just don't get the new soil soaking wet-just damp. See if it perks up, and if so, then you can water from the bottom in a day or so. Best, Judy