Tibs is absolutely correct. It really depends on the design of the system and how it is supposed to work. There are lots of different ways these are designed and are almost always based on standards set by the state and approved locally. That means that in some areas or some states, almost every "drain field" is very similar in design which can lead to accurate generalizations that you can do "this" or can do "that". But, you really don't know unless you find out from the designer (engineer or sanitarian) and/or the local health department who should know the design of that particular system, what is required for it to function properly, and what the legal requirements are for it. Anything else is speculation. If there is a failure of the system, things that you have done can be blamed for contributing to that failure whether or not they actually did, so it is important to document what you are told and who told it to you.

welcome!!! two new acres .. and you are fixated on this BAD SPOT ... i had the same problem when i moved to acreage ... enjoy this summer working on the other 1.98 acres ... you just moved in.. how about .. not unlike a scientific experiment.. you spend the next year or two.. studying this spot.. and its YEAR ROUND water patterns ... and THEN think about planting something there.. you just moved in.. how have you come to conclusions at this point???? .. heck i am in adrian MI. and in a normal spring.. the ground would have thawed barely last week ... and it is not uncommon to have standing water at such time ... if water does actually remain a year round issue.. how about you fill in the hole.. regrade.. or whatever.. and then think about planting there... and i am pretty sure.. no tree .. will fix a drainage or water issue ... come on wench.. you're a lab rat.. think analytically ... my total GUESS... its a transitory spring issue.. and most likely.. you are not limited as to plant choice.. depending on your native soil structure ... i would start .. by digging a hole .. and finding out if you are dealing with clay .... and then do a perk test.. as to drainage in your garden ... then the yearly water pattern ... and then a plant ... i hope that is gentle enough.. i got wound up on your lab-ness ... and analogizing to that ... good luck ... ken

You really need to find out what your soil needs by testing it or at least do some basic stuff to find out the organic matter of the soil. Is it clay or sand etc... from there you can find out what actually needs to be added. What I found was that if your not sure peat moss always seems to help if you don't have any compost. But as far as what to plant, not knowing your location, but anything you plant now at the end of July is going to take a lot of watering even on top a leach field. What kind of septic system do you have? I have an areation system with a drip system connected. I'm actually looking at possibly running a sprinkler system of it instead of it going into a small area of yard that I have to cut every few days. According to the manufacture and EPA the water that comes out of the system is "drinkable" but neiter one recommeds it. So I figured it can't hurt to use it to water the rest of my lawn and flowers.

The EPA and the CDC recommend 50 ft distance for a water well to a leach field. So if you are worried about contaminants to the corn roots that would probably be considered a safe distance. You should also consider that birds and other animals will deposit contaminants in your corn field. I would be more concerned about the vegetable roots getting into the leach lines. Three feet away would probably be a good distance if you worry about that. Or if you don't do a lot of worrying just plant non root vegetables ( no onions, carrots, potatoes) and enjoy the bountiful harvest. This post was edited by zeuspaul on Sun, Jan 25, 15 at 12:17