Cold damage usually looks like any of the following: water-soaking like appearence, blackening or browing of tissue, severe wilting and death. Chlorosis or a pale green color usually is the result of nitrogen deficiency or excessive moisture due to bad drainage or compaction. Since it is a mobile nutrient signs begin with the oldest leaves first and eventually throughout entire plant if not corrected. Fe and Mg deficiency would look like inter-veinal chlorosis at first in most plants followed by total chlorisis and necrosis....Look for Fe in younger leaves first and Mg in older leaves first. Mg deficiency also has marginal chlorisis and sometimes Mg deficiency will also have reddish tint to leaf margins and in the cleared vein areas. If you think your soil is too acidic, try fertilizing your pots with a high NO3 (Nitrate) vs. one high in NH4 (Ammonium) which will help raise the pH rather then lower it....let us know if that helps. I do agree with what Ladyslppr has said... I wouldn't want to fertilize these in the ground. Vera

I would guess iron. IÂd give them a very dilute solution (¼ strength) of a fertilizer with iron. See the link below. Here is a link that might be useful: Visual Symptoms of Nutrient Deficiency In Plants

Most (though not all) kinds foxglove (Digitalis) are biennial, so they grow a rosette of leaves in year one, flowers in year two, and usually die after that, though once in a blue moon they will come back for a second year of blooming in my garden. Leave some of the later bloom stalks to go to seed if you want it to continue, but deadhead early bloom stalks to get additional booms as the summer progresses. Mine seems to like it best in part shade and relatively even moisture as that's where it seeds most. It blooms most of the summer and sometimes into the fall for me. Occasionally its medium-large leaves will overwhelm a more delicate plant, so I remove seedlings where this might happen. The most common ones (Digitalis purpurea) are various shades of white, pink and pinkish purple. All foxglove plants contain a compound that effects heart rhythms if eaten, so be sure to wash your hands after handling. As Gardenweed said, Columbine (Aquilegia) self-seeds readily here in New England, but it plays well with others and is easy to remove, so it isn't a pest. It seems happiest when direct seeded, but I have transplanted it successfully. It is a spring to midsummer bloomer here. The original Nora Barlow is a double deep pink with some paler/greenish areas on the petals, a quite different form than traditional columbines, but IME the plant behaves the same way as more traditional columbines. There are now other columbines with similar form but other colors. IME most columbines are relatively short-lived perennials (a few years, but not more than 5 or 6) so save some seed just in case. IME, New York Ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis) is a great plant for the wilder edges of the garden. It is a perennial native wildflower, tall and with a purple flower that happens here for just a few weeks in late August into September. There is often some purple shading to the stems. NY ironweed likes wet feet, at least here in New England since that's where the wild populations are, though it will probably grow just fine in average soil once established. My only ironweed/Vernonia, a different species than your seeds, was eaten by voles within weeks of its planting, so if you have voles, you might want to protect the plant with some hardware cloth. If you don't want seedlings, deadhead. Cockscomb (Celosia) is usually planted as an annual, though I think there are some varieties which are perennial in the warmest zones. Depending on the type, the plants' height may vary quite a bit so perhaps either the seed packets or your daughter can give you more information about the plants' height. The flower form may vary some as well, but they are usually bright shades of red, orange and gold. My garden is well-drained, acid, fine sandy loam with fairly good organic matter and my weather is quite different from yours, so YMMV.

One of my holes is showing yellow the tips of some leaves, so this morning I watered it with a dose of iron chelate. The container you see is an empty 5-liter carafe. I have filled it with 2 liters of water and the proportion of iron chelate, which is one gram for every 1/2 liter of water, that is, with 4 grams (4 teaspoons) it has the right proportion. Will thank me