Reed Canary Grass is an increasing problem in my area. It grows quite large, up to 6 feet tall, and forms an extremely dense, rhizomatous root mass that chokes everything else out. Not a good weed. However, in my country it only grows with water, so it tends to line the edges of canals, irrigation ditches, and drains, rarely extending more than a couple feet back from the bank and remaining in pretty well saturated soil. The problem it causes is that it grows into the waterway, catching dirt and silt in the water, until it closes off the waterway, and it forms such a dense root system it is very hard to cut and open up with a shovel--it is rapidly climbing on my list of hated plants. A strong dose of glyphosate will take care of it, sometimes it takes a couple repeats, though. Based on where it lives here (wet to saturated soils), I would ask whether your ground is too wet for the berries you want to plant? You may have to resort to raised beds, and if you do you could line the beds with heavy plastic. I would think laying plywood down for a growing season would probably remove it as well. Whatever you do, you will need to clear a much larger area than you intend to plant, then work diligently to keep it from creeping back in.

Don't waste the Atrazine. Atrazine may damage certain cultivars of Bermuda during Spring, but it is a common part of Bermuda lawn programs in the southeast to control Annual Bluegrass during winter dormancy. What's more, the image looks more like a common Bermuda, which is less likely to be effected by Atrazine. If it is a small area, and you won't to avoid having it increase in size, use a product like Fusilade II. Fusilade II is used around ornamental landscapes and Liriope beds to kill Bermuda selectively and quickly. It works better than Round up at killing Bermuda, but is likely to damage the St. Augustine as well. So there again, it really depends on how far it has spread. Also, if you go that route, wait until the Bermuda has fully transitioned and again expect what ever St. Augustine is sprayed to die initially, and then fill back in from the surrounding turf. Here is a link that might be useful: Serenity Lawn Service

Sherry, Well, I think you can plant them and have limited success. Onions have to be in the ground and achieve a certain amount of growth before bulbing is induced. Since bulbing is induced by a combination of daylength and temperature, it is going to happen when the daylength-temperature combo is achieved, whether the onions have been in the ground for one week, one month, or whatever. So, that is why we have to plant onions so very early--to get maximum growth before initiation of the bulbing process begins. Most onions needs to be in the ground a minimum of 90 to 100 days before bulb initiation starts in order to size up fully, and some need 100 to 120 days. Short day-length onions will begin to bulb up once the daylength (hours of sunlight) reaches about 10-12 hours in combination with the right temperature. Intermediate day-length onions need 12-14 hours days to bulb up. Long day-length onions will begin to bulb up once the daylength is 14-16 hours and the temperature is right, which is why the long daylength onions are not grown in our part of the county. (Our daylength here maxes out around 14 hours.) So, if the onions go into the ground late, they will grow and they still will bulb up once bulb initiation occurs. They'll just be smaller when bulb initiation occurs, thus, they will be smaller at maturity than onions that were planted earlier. One reason that short day-length and intermediate day-length onions planted in the southern third of the country get bigger than those EXACT same varieties grown in the upper 2/3s of the country is that our weather allows us to plant the onions up to 5 months prior to bulb initiation, and the northern states' colder weather does not allow them to plant until approx. 75 days before bulb initiation. So, if you plant late this year, you'll get onions that are "northern-sized" instead of "southern-sized", but you'll still get onions! If you don't mind knowing you'll get smaller onions, go ahead and go for it. It would be a good learning experience if you've never grown onions before. Some commonly-sold short day-length onions are TX 1015Y (aka Texas Sweet or Texas Supersweet), Yellow Granex, White Bermuda, Southern Belle Red and Contessa. Some commonly-sold intermediate day-length onions are Candy, Stockton Sweet Red and Superstar. Some commonly sold long day-length onions (and these should NOT be sold in our region) include Borrettana Cippolini, Red Torpedo Tropea, Ailsa Craig (there's also a tomato by this name), Copra, Big Daddy, Red Burgermaster, Red Zeppelin, Walla Walla, Yellow Sweet Spanish and Ringmaster. I've already planted my main crop of onions, but I do continue planting onions in various spots around the garden as companion plants, and I will, probably through mid-to-late April. Of course, I don't care if those companion-planted onions bulb up or not. Sometimes I leave the companion plant onions in the ground until the following year, and let them bloom in the spring. Their tiny flowers attract a TON of tiny pollinators and beneficial insects, and are quite attractive as well. Dawn

Passionflowers are so similar to Wisteria. Both of them are beautiful. But neither of them are really wanted in your yard unless you have a way to control their runners for sure. Now that you have the plant (and runners), you could just, as the previous comment stated, cut the runners down to the ground. But the roots are still there, waiting to take over your flower bed. While I hate to suggest it, the only real way to get rid of the runners is to kill the mother plant. I would recommend using Roundup (a lot of it) and hopefully letting the poison seep to the runners through the root system. If you want to keep the mother plant... Don't. Just don't. Unless you save some of it to grow a new one or buy more seeds, the way your first plant is planted won't work. You have to put the plant in a rather large pot in the ground to contain the root system. Now, I've only heard of this being done, so if you want to keep the passionflower, do your own research! I hope this helps! Don't let the passionflower take over the world!