That's definitely not a grape. With all that new growth, it's a bush of some sort, but not a grape. Do you have a county extention service nearby that could help you identify it. It looks wild. Maybe even a bean of some sort. You probably have cabbage loopers on your broccoli. Look for little green caterpillars. Have you had any small white moths or butterflies flying around lately? Here's a link to insects and their treatment. http://vegipm.tamu.edu/imageindex.html

Cottentop, Congrats on your first corn. The culprit in the corn case is the corn earworm. The exact same worm will move to tomato plants and eat the fruit. On them it is called the tomato fruit worm. Corn earworms can be difficult to fight, and if you happen to find holes in the side of the husk showing where a worm bored its way through the husk, then that's the European Corn Borer. I have both of them most years, but sometimes none at all. With the squash, it likely is the squash vine borer, commonly referred to as SVBs around here. I'll link info on them. That's just a guess, though, because it also could be squash bugs or disease. The linked document will address at least squash vine borers and squash bugs, and may go into other things as well.It's been a while since I read it and I don't remember if it goes into other squash family pests and diseases. It can be difficult, but not impossible, to save plants hit by the SVBs if you can catch them on the day it wilts, or even before that, by scouting the base of your plants for FRASS (grub or worm poop). If you find the FRASS, that means the squash vine borer is inside your plant eating away. You can slit the stem, pull it out, press the stem back together and bury it under soil so the soil acts as a sort of band-aid. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: ATTRA: Squash Vine Borers and Squash Bugs

Hi - the 'eggs' & ants are aphids plus ants could be feeding on the aphids' excrement (a.k.a. honeydew) - or on the plant's nectar. Okra has nectaries, I've learned, which are sort of pores on the plants that produce nectar. You can wash aphids & ants off w/ a hose. The aphids can do harm, since their feeding can damage/distort leaves & tissues, but ants by themselves won't harm okra by feeding on the nectar, in fact they may help as pollinators. I do not see ants in your photo, so they may be after the nectar & not the aphids' honeydew. The holes in the okra leaves are definitely done by something else, but they look healed over to me, meaning the damage is old & pests are likely long gone. It could've been perpetrated by caterpillars, grasshoppers or slugs/snails, I think. The 'rule of thumb', BTW, is that plants can lose up to 1/3 of their foliage & still be OK. It is hard to determine if that is upper or lower foliage on the tomatoes. I don't worry too much about damage on lower leaves, since they tend to get scraggly w/ age, but if it's on new growth @ the top, I think that may be cause for concern. I remove dead leaves regularly from my tomato plants.

I agree Nil, a few months ago I was at the Theodore Payne Society off La Tuna Canyon in Sun Valley. They were finishing up a major renovation/addition to their buildings and grounds. When I was there they were installing drip lines for the new gardens which, since it's the TPS, are all CA natives. They used 1/2 inch inline drip tube and were laying it out in parallel lines about a foot apart. This grid covered the whole planting area. Once it was installed they planted the natives inside the grid. I don't know how often they water, maybe the next time I'm there I'll ask them. When I was there they did tell me that you need to water the ground and not water individual plants with drip. It was a revelation. I just did the same thing with my new landscape. The inline drip tube is robust and easy to work with. My first drip system, installed about 20 years ago, was a mess of spaghetti tubes going to each individual plant. It never worked well and for 20 years I swore off drip irrigation until I saw the right way to do it.