You've opened a door that many want to chime in on. According to many, organics will not work in a container grow. I am hardheaded, and proceeded to do what many won't or can't do to make it work. Last year, i grew 40 some pepper plants, and some other stuff in my containers and was quite successful. If you are looking for more than one season, I reccomend using Al's mix - see the container gardening forum. If you are not going to try and grow more than one season with organics - you can do it, it will work, but it is more costly and time consuming than most gardners wish to stick with. As I said, I am hard headed and want challenges, and was able to do extremely well. Still here, OK here goes some of my .025 I mix my soil mix in two stages now. One is for first transplant, second is for fruiting and final transplant. Both are mixed well in advance - as much as 6 months or as few as 6 weeks depending on time availability and funds hee hee. I mix into huge totes and keep them around 68-74 degrees to let the microlife grow and develop. The containers I grow in are *mostly 8-14 gallon plastic nursery stock. With the weight of the containers while growing, they tend to settle into the ground quite a bit over the summer, and thats exactly what i want. I also do not really do more than trim the grass at the top level of the containers to prevent the sun from cooking the soillife and roots inside. I do use some 5 gallon buckets too, but those plants are severly root bound by seasons end. I use a blend of fertiloams red label, a very "woody and chunky" potting soil that is locally available for both of my mixes. For a 50 gallon batch I add the following. first mix 15 lbs of worm castings. 2 lbs green sand 2 lbs cottonseed meal 1 lbs blood meal 5 lbs bone meal - either steamed or not. 1 lbs kelp meal 5 lbs pelletized dolomite lime 1 bag composted cow manure Alot of folks stay away from the worm castings, but to introduce microlife, it's important. After mixing thoroughly, I make a "tea" from 1 gallon of spring water, 1/2 cup worm castings, 4 tablespoons of liquid fish ferts (alaska), and 2 tablespoons of non sulfured molasses. I put an air pump (aquarium) and stone in this, and bubble it until it foams hard - usually 12 to 16 hours. I mix this with another 4 gallons of either rain water or spring water and 1/4 cup molasses. This I add to the mix in the totes to lightly moisten, and mix thoroughly. I then cover the totes, and store them, turning lightly weekly and monitoring so that they do not go anaerobic on me. "hot mix" 5 lbs greensand 30 lbs worm castings 10 lbs bone meal 7 lbs cottonseed meal 5 lbs blood meal 5 lbs bat guano high pk 2 bage composted cow manure 3 lbs kelp meal 6 lbs pelletized dolomite lime 2 lbs grain limestone the mix part and tea is the same. first mix is for 1st transplant into 1 gallon containers, before this I use straight red label, second mix is for final transplant into large container. I add a few teas during growth, water daily unless rain, and put a mix of chunky shredded bark and alfalfa pellets on top to mulch with. Once a month or so, I water with a 2 table spoon molasses to 1 gallon water mix to enrich microlife. i have changed this mix several times, and will probably continue to do so. You don't have to get this involved, but without the microlife, the nutrients are not that available to the plant, and it will not flourish. I had mature peppers - even Bhuts in late June, early July. My garden planted peppers didn't really yield till later like mid August or so. I harvested over and over and over. Continously. it will work, but like I said, is expensive, and time consuming. My tomatoes and basil were enormous and yielded well into October. Next post I will attach some late season photos. Good luck. TiMo One added benefit is the use of the old seasons mix into my vegetable garden. In January, I could scrape off the leaf covering in the garden and still find enourmous amounts of worms at work breaking this down. This year, my garden should really rock. The greensand and bonemeal last well into the future, more so the greensand.

This year, I planted in large black plastic containers with a 50%/50% mix of MG potting soil and compost. They thrived in that. I added organic matter periodically (coffee grinds, coco bean mulch, etc.) and fertilized once a month. I also interplanted with Lysmachia ('Creeping Jenny' & 'Jungle Green') to cover the black pots and act as a natural mulch. Seemed to help retain the water quite a bit.

I am using pro-mix for professionals that I buy from a greenhouse or a good garden center. To sow regular perennials or annuals, I use only pro-mix but when I sow more delicate plants such as alpine and rock garden plants, I use pro-mix and add grit or small vermiculite, half and half. The mixture allows a perfect drainage and it is easier when comes the time to divide the seedlings and transplant. Sometimes, especially for sowing paeonies, I use only pure sand. Using soil is dangerous as the seedlings will have more tendancy to damp off. If you need more help, you can contact me. Denyse, President of the Quebec Alpine and rock garden Society Here is a link that might be useful: Quebec Alpine and Rock Garden Society

This article should answer a lot of your questions. The book covers them in more detail as well. http://www.squarefootgardening.com/html/body_mix_full.html