I think there are big differences. Turf Type Tall Fescue has been bred down from the real wide bladed tall fescue that people consider a weed. The newer and better types can look almost as good as bluegrass because the blades are so fine. If neglected, fescue can actually revert back to its origins and produce wider blades and start clumping. I think the difference will be the cheaper stuff (something like ky31) will have a wider blade, be more drought tolerant, but not hold color as well, and grow faster than your existing turf. This could create an eyesore. If you overseed every year, you want to keep going with the same or similar seed every year to keep a uniform look. Maybe buy a 50 pound bag that will last a few years from a larger supplier so that your price per pound drops. Plus, the time and gas saved by not driving to the store and getting a new bag every year will save you money in the long run. And, I've heard that grass seed actually has a higher germination percentage in its second year, so storing the bag for a year can actually help! Good luck.

1. When you say "truckload of soil" I assume you mean ordinary soil which would be a very bad idea, it would become compacted and won't drain well. The roots would drown for lack of oxygen. You need to use an appropriate well draining 'non soil' organic potting mix. This rule is part of the ABC's of basic seed sowing in containers. 2. "Months watering" sounds like you intend to keep seedlings in trays a very long time, later you mention leaving them in there for an entire year and even worse, counting on them surviving summer in trays. This is also very bad. Trays might serve in a pinch to germinate seeds but certainly not for growing them on, crowded together in such shallow soil as a seed tray would provide. What you want is good root growth and trays would not provide this, that is not what a seed tray is designed for. It is meant for holding pots or cells. 3. Scaling back on water to keep plant growth in check to control size doesn't even make sense. 4. Growing seedlings in a container that has no drainage holes is simply not done. That would result in a stagnant mess, damping off, drowning plants etc. This is a sure way to kill plants even if they are water loving plants. I suggest you get online or find a book on basic seed sowing methods. It appears you are over analyzing and making things difficult along with a lack of understanding of how to sow seeds. Seeds have simple basic needs for good success and your proposal doesn't sound practical or promising at all. Check the seed sowing forum or even the winter sowing forum. Either place will give you better ideas than what you have proposed above.

You seem to have the idea that the sewage treatment takes place in the septic tank and all the leachfield does is allow a place for the remaining liquid to be absorbed into the soil, but that is not true. Inside the septic tank the sewage is digested by anaerobic bacteria and converted from a thich slurry into a gray liquid, but the gray liquid discarging from the septic tank is still toxic effluent. It must also be mentioned that the leachfield is not just the perforated pipes on the discharge side of the septic tank. The perforated pipes merely allow the gray liquid effluent to be absorbed into the soil below grade where Aerobic bacteria complete the breakdown process. Some ppl than ask the question, how can aerobic (air breathing) bacteria survive underground?The aerobic bacteria survives because normal atmospheric air can penetrate 3 to 4 feet into the soil. The amount of air penetration would not be enough for a person to breathe but it is more than sufficient to support the bacteria. If the effluent were to go into a drywell as you suggest, the empty portion of that drywell above the effluent would quickly fill up with methane & sulphur-dioxide and there would be no oxygen to support the aerobic bacteria so the effluent would not finish the treatment process. I would also like to correct a statement you made in your original post: Quote; "We are building a new house in an area without municiple sewer and without specific regulations regarding sewage treatment." That is not true, you may live in an area where code enforcement is marginal and many ppl elect to ignore the codes, but there is no area within the United States of America that does not have a plumbing code. If your local jurisdiction has no code, then the state code applies. Taking this to the next level, the Plumbing Codes are not building codes, they are health codes, and they are enforced by your local board of health and the Federal EPA and while all the other trade inspectors can redtag your job, and demand certain changes be made before you can proceed with your project, a Plumbing Inspector is a sworn law enforcement officer with full arrest powers and they can not only redtag your job, a Plumbing inspector can arrest you under both civil and criminal charges for major violations of the plumbing code.

NICE. I was planning to add a dollop of Microlife fish juice to the mix cuz it has iron & kelp meal, but I can just paint it! Classy. In reality, I'm going to try spectracide weed stop (2,4d, dicamba & mecoprop) diluted to low strength in the tank with a sulfentrazone & prodiamine kicker from Sedge Ender at 1oz per gallon. That a 4-way kill plus preM. Hopefully it doesn't blow up in my face & burn my eyebrows off turning my lips a radioactive neon yellow. I'll start a new thread with results. Stay tuned.