large fruited hawthorn/disease resistant ones

14 years ago

ok I am going a bit nuts trying to find what I am looking for. I could sure use some help.

Anyone know where I can get large fruited native hawthorns. my first priority is native, disease resistant and healthy and then large fruited , but I can't settle for tiny fruits either.

I have looked and can't find seeds anyplace from known productive trees. such as C succulenta 17mm to 35mm fruits .

anyone know of any or any bare root or seeds from known large producing big fruited trees?

is it my imagination or is naming their fruits and trees a mess out there in the real world? it seems everyone uses the same pictures for every Crataegus and the same descriptions for them all. but never is two descriptions of any of the Crataegus the same for any variety or group . what a mess.

reason I need a small orchard of these because had a heart attack IN JAN and NEED TO GET LOTS OF THESE FRUITS INTO MY DIET SOMEHOW ..

Comments (4)

fatamorgana2121
14 years ago
I included a link to a place I like to order from that carries the large fruited hawthorn. In zone 6 though, you'll not be able to plant any trees until spring and if they happy enough to bloom the first year, the fruit is not ready until late fall.

I have a couple of small fruited, native hawthorns (crataegus phaenopyrum)which I pick the fruits from. I harvest them for a naturopath doctor who uses them for tinctures. He uses that the same way the large fruited Chinese varieties are used. The native wild hawthorns still have their fruits and will most all of the winter. Like rosehips, they are fine to collect in the winter.

That said, please work with an herbalist, naturopath, or some other health care professional to help you take control of your health safely.

FataMorgana

Here is a link that might be useful: Raintree Nursery - Hawthorn
Iris GW
14 years ago
I posed your question to a friend that has studied hawthorns and got the following comments:

Our native hawthorns having the largest fruits are C. mollis, C. punctata, C. aestivalis, C. opaca, C. harbisonii, C. coccinioides and C. triflora. These are not necessarily the heaviest producers, however.

The cultivars C. viridis 'Winter King' and C. phaenopyrum 'Vaughn' are much more reliable fruit producers (fruits 10-14mm) than any of the straight species, and these two grafted cultivars are commercially available in quantity. They do not bear so well in sandy, hot or dry soils, however.

So, if I were to suggest a species to grow for medicinal fruit harvesting, C. crus-galli is most adaptable to a variety of soils and it has good quality "ingredients"; it is also frequently available through seed or nursery stock; there is even a thornless variety, 'Inermis'. The mayhaws (aestivalis, opaca, rufula) grow well and produce heavily in the deep South, in moist soils; they are also readily available. For the north, or higher elevations of the South, large-fruited and reasonably prolific C. punctata and C. coccinioides would be my choice; these may be available only rarely, through seed.

Hope those comments help. Disease resistance did not really play into those comments - presuming the disease of concern is fungal rusts, which affects all hawthorns if they are in the vicinity of infected alternate hosts (eastern redcedars). Sometimes one reads claims of "disease resistance" to hawthorn rust in Crataegus phaenopyrum and C. crus-galli, but this is not really true.
Related Discussions
Best hawthorn for fruit?
Q
Comments (9)
C. schraderiana is the only one I've tried so far apart from C. monogyna which doesn't really count on the flavour scale. The trees are hardy here, mine's on a north facing slope and had no problems under a canopy with only 3 or 4 hours of direct morning light a day. The canopy's gone now so it get's a full day's light. It has been slow to grow vertically so is much the same size as I bought it but bushed out and fruited very well in shade, the berries taste being a bit underwhelming off the tree. 1cm around with a large seed(s), sweetish with a nice tang, I would have loved to make a pint of the pulp to drink as that would be far from underwhelming. Better sunlight conditions this year should give the berries more flavour and I might just have enough for a half pint which I'm very much looking forward to. I think my C. pinnatifida var. major "Big Golden Star" will fruit this year. It shot to ten foot tall and branched high but has yet to fruit. My C. arnoldiana has stayed at 18" tall so It'll be a while before I get fruit. C. ellwangeriana is a possibility this year, the plant never gained much height at 3' and has just bushed out. C. durobrivensis has survived low light conditions in a hedge and has now found it's own light places. It should start growing well and fruit in perhaps 2 years time and C. pedicellata gave a lovely show of flowers the spring after it was planted and died from the top down before it fruited.
...See More
verticillium wilt and cedar hawthorn rust resistant tree
Q
Comments (3)
Hi ken - I thought that the hawthorn was the culprit. I have read that winter king green hawthorns are often trouble. And the juniper is way bigger, the hawthorn is young and easier to remove. If I take out the hawthorn, I was wondering if I could just spray the juniper which does not look too bad. I took out the JM because one large half of the tree was dead. It was totaled suddenly! Very sad. Thank you for responding. Hi gardengal48 - yes, the HJ is awesome! I was looking at verticillium resistant small trees. A Stewartia would be fabulous! Evergreen would be great too. It just seems like the spot is cursed! I planted the hawthorne where the JM was. Thanks for the tip!
...See More
Cramoisi Superieur size and disease resistance
Q
Comments (20)
This is a really interesting thread. I've been following it and reading the replies to discover what gardeners on the forum have to say about these two roses. Climate can make such a difference in terms of shrub size and growth patterns; flower color, size, and petal count; remontancy; etc. I've always been completely peplexed when attempting to distinguish between Cramoisi and Louis P. If you show me a small plant of each, I couldn't ID one or the other to save my life. White streaks or centers? Both at times. Size and petal count? Heck if I know! Jeri, your experience with Cramoisi and Louis P are the opposite of what I'd read or been told in TX, and Organic Kitten's experience is similar to yours. For you both, Louis P is a larger shrub. Mike Shoup and Liz Druitt suggest that Cramoisi will grow up to 6 feet tall and 4 feet wide or so in that region. The Antique Rose Emporium site states that Louis P will grow to about 3'-5' and Druitt says around 4'. In PDX, I chose to grow Cramoisi because I assumed (maybe correctly, maybe not) that a red china would remain a bit smaller here, and I'd always believed Cramoisi to be the larger shrub of the two. If you all keep writing, I'm going to keep reading and learning. Carol
...See More
Which are your most disease-resistant (and least) ...so far?
Q
Comments (8)
Disease that plague my garden are Early Blight and Septoria. Usually, most tomatoes I grow show some signs of either or both, but most tomatoes I keep, after an annual spring culling, are ones that will tolerate, by outgrowing, those two diseases. One can only pray for a warm, breezy, relatively dry June, and so far we've had that. The most tolerant tomatoes thus far this year include: Indian Stripe x Sun Gold (F3) * Ananas Noir ** Indian Stripe * Terhune Brandywine ** Big Beef x Eva's Purple Ball (F3) * [(Brandywine x Neves Azorean Red)F2 x Bolseno]F2 Juane Flamme x Sun Gold (F1) ** Something KCTomato sent with Sun Gold, Lucky Cross and Little Lucky parents *** Oaxacan Jewel * Mozark x Sioux ** West Virginia '63 ** Wessel's Purple Pride ** Red House Free Standing (dwarf) * Husky Red Cherry F2 (dwarf) ** ... and several Purple Haze F2s and F4s I don't think I've ever found a variety 100% resistant to Septoria, but the 3 that come the closest for me are West Virginia '63, Ananas Noir and Indian Stripe. Varieties that succumbed early to either Septoria or Early Blight included: Cowlick's Brandywine Amazon Chocolate Barlow (although I have one plant out of a dozen that made it and is now doing great) Dana's Dusky Rose Traveller 76 (again, one plant out of a dozen showed superior tolerance) and several dwarves which chronically show low tolerance Two plants that are succumbing in the past two days to something I have never seen in my garden before (hope it's not late blight!) are Top Sirloin and Buisson. Keeping an eye on those two, but I think they'll both be yanked within 12 hours. Meanwhile, think I'll scrounge around in the garage for some Daconil. I know I got an old can of that somewhere that I used to spray on that ornamental peach ...
...See More
njbiology
13 years ago
Which species would make the smallest tree: C. crus-galli, C. mollis, or C. phaenophyrum?
Iris GW
13 years ago
C. phaenophyrum if you are strictly referring to species. Next would be C. crus-galli.

large fruited hawthorn/disease resistant ones

Comments (4)

fatamorgana2121

Iris GW

Related Discussions

njbiology

Iris GW

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US