I am so use to staying within my comfort zone of New England Gardening that I forget we have other forum.

I have just posted this in the Landscaping Design forum too.

I like reading the LD forum, but you may get more useful suggestions here, IMHO! That's a beautiful wall, by the way.

It looks like there isn't much grass in this area - is that because the soil is poor, or ... is it the sunlight? Do you have the ability to amend the soil? Access to compost and manure? Will you be able to give the area plenty of water once you've planted here? And - last question - are you planting here because you don't want to mow, or because the grass is sparse, or are you looking for a more interesting scene along the street? Do you want more of a sense of enclosure, a barrier between the house and sidewalk? ( Those are really all one question: what's your goal with this project?)

Hi, diggingthedirt.
You have great questions that I didn't think of including.Thank you about the wall. My goal is to enhance the look in this area. I know that I will have to make comprises but here's what I'm looking for:
- native plants that are less demanding on resources e.g.
will require less water once established, no pruning of large shrubs to keep them compact
- plants that are attractive to wildlife butterflies, bees, or birds but am concerned since this area is right next to the street
- plants for a four season look
I'm not sure what's going on with the grass. With all the rain, it should have been green and lush by now.
However, I do have a white grub problem. We throw grass seeds down twice a year. They would grow, look nice, and die.
The area does get sunlight after 1 and until the sunset since it's on the southwest. Prior to noon, the area is in bright shade.
I can get compost and manure. However, if I am going to amend the soil here, I would rather go with plants that require less resources than grass.
I am willing and able to water.
I just want this area to look 'nice'. It doesn't have to be an enclosure nor barrier between the house and sidewalk since the house is already set back.
Thank you,
Tina

I was going to say the same thing as Dee -- that's a BEAUTIFUL wall! I would try to make it the focus (it sort of already is) with whatever you do. I'd love to see something cascading down over it (can't tell you what to suggest but it just begs for an artistic cascade to me...something that would bloom at some point in the year but look nice the rest of the time, too)

You don't have to worry about deer do you? Any other problems (rabbits, etc.?)

Before you do anything you really need to get rid of the grubs. Grubs eat roots. Of grass and other plants.

You can get grubx pretty much anywhere - Home Depot, garden centers, nurseries, hardware stores, Walmart.

Ditto pixie_lou's comment re the grubs. Until those are eliminated, you have little hope of ever turning that lovely view into something of which you can both be proud & enjoy. If grub-ex doesn't do the trick, you're pretty much at a stand-still when it comes to planting. An alternative to chemicals, though not bullet-proof, might be vinegar since it kills everything. I've used it successfully against poison ivy and other weeds.

There are cultivars of both lamium and campanula/bellflower that will cascade over the wall so you have some choices with regard to how to enhance the look of it once you eliminate the grub issue. There are also quite a number of other shade lovers that will tolerate dry shade--I have a full-shade bed beside my garage where the following have been thriving for many years:

Hellebore/Lenten rose
Azalea
Perennial geranium
Dicentra spectabilis/bleeding heart
Japanese painted fern
Tricyrtis/toad lily
hosta
Aquilegia/columbine
variegated Japanese sedge grass
Alchemilla mollis/Lady's Mantle
Heuchera/coral bells
Cimicifuga racemosa/Black Snakeroot
Mertensia virginica/Virginia bluebells
Brunnera/Siberian bugloss

Not all of them put on a show throughout the year--Virginia bluebells are an ephemeral and completely disappear once summer arrives & toad lilies don't bloom until fall--but the rest do what I envisioned they'd do when I designed the bed. The only thing I feel obliged to offer supplemental water to during dry periods is astilbe.

Ok. A small bag of grub-ex was put down prior to rain today. I felt guilty the whole time I was sprinkling it on the lawn.

My only consolation is that I will have plants for other wildlife.

Yes, something to cascade over the wall will look nice. I can get creeping phlox but they tend to look ratty after they bloom. Maybe low growing cotton Easter.

The list looks awesome and I will look into them.

Thank you,
Tina

For the cascading, you might consider Basket of Gold (Aurinia saxatilis) instead of creeping phlox -- my neighbor has it spilling over an old stone wall (and has had it for at least 40 years!) and it is stunning when in bloom, and a lovely blue-gray-green the rest of the time.

Here is a link that might be useful: Basket of Gold

Tina, I recommend filling the area with Wood's Pink Aster (there's also a Purple variety). It will do well in zone 6 and requires only weekly watering and no fussing. I live in zone 5b Massachusetts and I got a tiny 1 inch plant that grew to a 15 inch "shrub" by autumn in the same conditions as the garden area you want to develop-morning shade and afternoon sun (see attached photo). However, it only flowered for two weeks in autumn so you might consider it for a neat border.

In the winter the aster leaves turned brown and it was covered with little beige stars from the old flowers, really nice and understated in my opinion. It's very difficult to find plants for New England that look great in the winter. Which Hazel does fine in shade and produces mid-winter blooms but it's not as full as a typical ornamental shrub. Walker's Low Catmint is hardy and would look great trailing the wall but doesn't grow more than 3 ft. so it's not necessary to prune it and Hetz Midget shrub grows in a ball shape which doesn't require pruning and it grows very slowly to about 3-4 ft. maximum, but conifers do require a lot of water.

A couple more comments: How far is it from the maple to this driveway? I'd be very concerned with maple roots - it's surprisingly difficult to plant within about 20 feet of a maple - if you can even dig there.

That said, since this is such a visible corner, I'd definitely go with something that would have some structure, and would look good in winter, not just perennials. Hellebores was a good suggestion, since they're evergreen, but the caveat is that you need to cut them back in March or thereabouts to get rid of the old foliage, which gets really ratty looking at that point. I don't mind doing this because they're such great plants.

You might also consider a wide swath of winter heath - they stop traffic when planted in masses, starting in February. They're tough as can be once established, and tolerate dry conditions like the top of a wall very well. They do surprisingly well in less than full sun, too.

Personally, I'd be really ... careful if you decide to drape the wall with trailing plants, and only let a very small fraction of the wall be covered. That treatment is great for block walls and other modern eyesores; your wall is beautiful as is and doesn't need to be covered up.

Alchemilla mollis, another suggestion above, would tolerate competition from the maple, and would self-sow, so you might not need to dig too extensively. It does need to be cut back, like the hellebores.

Have you checked the number of hours of sun? I wonder if it will be enough for the rose - and if you can amend the soil enough for a rose to be happy near that maple. Morning shade plus roses often equals fungal problems.

I'd also like to suggest at least one tall accent - whether an evergreen or one of the small witch hazels - Diane is a favorite of mine, but it might be too big for this corner.

Can't wait to see what you come up with!

The Basket of Gold does look great cascading down the wall. I have seen other pictures of it and it was so unassuming.
I like the aster. I have to figure pink vs purple.
I read about the witch hazel and how one of the varieties blooms in the late winter or early spring with a wonderful scent. I have to go to Broken Arrow and see it in person.
Now, I have to plan.

Thanks for your input,
Tina

I definitely wouldn't let any cascading plant cover ALL of the wall ... at my neighbor's house (a wonderful old 18th century home with a big, beautiful stone retaining wall "holding it up" in front), it falls over the stones here and there... mostly it's massed on top. Sort of a mound of gold along the top, with the occasional "river" of gold down the wall but much of the wall exposed, old fieldstone. I think you could get a similar effect. A lot of wall, but softened with something that cascades. Don't smother the wall though! ;)

Good luck! I imagine if you took a photo of your site when you go to Broken Arrow (or any nursery), they can give you some good suggestions.

Besides the shade and grubs and the maple tree competition, I think another part of the problem is the fact that this area has a definite downward pitch, judging from the stairs on the left, which probably means this area stays dry. So it seems you'll need plans that will grow best in dry shade.

I second the suggestion to visit a reputable garden center armed with photos taken from various angles. We've received great advice--- and plants--- from Broken Arrow; that place is worth a trip from anywhere.

I can imagine some sort of ground cover all around the top of the wall, but please not something that will hang down and shroud that wall! I agree with everyone --- the shape and construction of this wall is fantastic and should not be hidden.

I've included a link to the Garden Beds at Eklund Gardens in Shelton, CT. I've never been there, but their lists look extensive.

Here is a link that might be useful: Eklund Garden

Tina, another link I found is from the UofMn. It lists great plants for dry shade. Some of these might work for you.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dry Soil: Shade or Under Trees

My first thought was to wonder how sure you are that grubs are causing the issues with growing grass. The downward slope to the wall, the tree roots, and whatever the soil is like might all have contributed to grass failing to thrive without it being grubs. Apologies if you have confirmed the grubs being the issue, but in my yard they don't restrict themselves to one area, and the grass seems to be having a much tougher time in the foreground than further back, so I am wondering if that is the whole issue.

I think before planting, I would get a soil test done to see if there is anything else that you should do to make the area more ready to be a garden. After improving soil (and you may need to just add supplements to the surface in order to not disturb the tree roots too much) and planting, I would mulch the area, though not too deeply, to help slow down the runoff of moisture and to help keep moisture from evaporating.

With afternoon sun and relatively bright morning shade where the branches aren't hanging over your planting area, you should be able to grow both part sun and shade plants, though with the tree roots (is it a maple?) you will have to choose plants that don't mind root competition, dry soil and competition for nutrients. In the more shaded areas, I think you will need to grow whatever will grow in those conditions, regardless of whether they are native or attract birds, insects, etc.

Are you hoping to fill the whole area between your front walk and the wall or do you want some grass left? If you want to fill the whole area, can you take a photo looking straight at the house from across the street so we can see how this relates to the house and any other plantings you have?

When you are ready to choose plants, I would choose several of each of a limited number of different types, mostly relatively low, and probably types that will spread a bit to create drifts of color and texture. I would probably choose some spring bulbs to come up through the perennials in the areas with good afternoon sun such as daffodils, alliums or species tulips.

I'd do Hostas all around the bottom of wall and a few more hostas up top near the wall and something about 1-2 feet tall behind them.

Molie, I have been to Eklund but did not know the history behind it. How wonderful! As a volunteer 'dog trainer', I used to take one of the shelter dogs there for hiking and socializing. But, never in the dog park...one of the worst place to bring a dog.

Also, thank you for the dry shade link. It will not be a problem getting those plants for under the tree. However, as you move closer to the driveway, the plants will be exposed to blazing afternoon sun.

I actually picked up a mock orange for the site. Apparently, it is an American cultivar (if that's the correct term). However, upon further research, it was not recommended at a site "where sun reflection tends to quickly spoil their flowers and lighten their leaf color". http://www.humeseeds.com/efm_o.htm

Can I also add that this plant looks beautiful and smell as good as it looks?

I think the intense hot afternoon sun will spoil it. So, I will plant it somewhere else.

My brother-in-law Just offered me a prunus maritima beach plum in a five gallon container. It's a good size where I don't have to wait forever. It should work for this sight. It is a northeast native and is endangered.http://www.hort.uconn.edu/plants/p/prumar/prumar1.html But, I'm unsure if fallen fruits will attract flies and deer.

nhbabs, you have offered much insight. As for the grubs, the brown areas are found through out the lawn. If you grab a handful of grass, you can pluck it out with minimal effort and there's barely and roots. If you dig with a trowel, you can be sure to find at least 2 in that amount of soil.

You are right, I should have the soil tested. Before I started gardening last year, I looked up the UCONN cooperative extension system. I even scooped soil from different areas of the lawn, mixed it up as directed, and, then, just didn't get around to it. I know....awful.

Thanks for everyone's input. This planning/gardening is an art! It's not as easy as it looks. I have seen the majority of your beautiful gardens and have much respect for the amount of work you all put into the gardens.

I will have to take section in baby steps with the planting since I cannot drop hundreds of dollars at once.

-Tina

I agree with getting a soil test -- and just a note that if you are ever down in the New Haven area, the CT Agricultural Experiment Station also does soil testing and I believe they still do it at no charge (I think UConn Ext. has a small fee). You can drop off a sample at their New Haven facility or you can mail it in -- they have instructions on their website.

After you get the soil results (because a nursery will need to know about the soil conditions as well as the light, etc., when suggesting plants -- I needed something to replace some aging euonymous shrubs for a dry, sunny spot that gets a lot of sand and salt runoff from the town plows every year and as soon as I said that at Broken Arrow, they knew just what to suggest), I really think your best bet is to take a series of photos and go to Broken Arrow or any nursery where you have confidence in their advice. I'd try to go at a slower time (i.e., NOT a Saturday morning!) when they're more likely to be able to spend some time with you.

Any idea at what time the sun starts hitting this area? That makes a big difference - I know it varies during the course of the summer, but if you tell us when it happens now, in June, it will give us a base line for thinking about similar conditions in our own gardens.

Re the alyssum - I agree, it's a lovely plant - I have it on a stone wall too, and I DO love it. Not sure if there's enough sun here for it - most of mine is in full, hot sun all day - that's why I'd love to know when the area starts to get sunny in the afternoon.

Almost forgot, my favorite perennial for really tough sites like this is epimedium. The yellow is especially vigorous, and spreads nicely (not aggressively in my garden). It does look better if the leaves are cut down in late winter/early spring when they turn brown. I have it in sun and shade, and it's awesome.

One word about mockorange - it looks great for a short period of time. Where it suffers in comparison to many other blooming shrubs, like many of the viburnums, IMHO, is that there's nothing particularly appealing about the foliage or form when it's out of bloom. Just a personal opinion - I have one out there somewhere, but not in a prominent location.

A good shrub for this area might be winter hazel (corylopsis, maybe pauciflora) which has fragrant, pale yellow flowers. That would stop traffic on this corner in March and April. I think the form would complement the wall, too - nothing stiff about it. I'll attach a link, but I have to say that photos do not do justice to this plant.

Here is a link that might be useful: winter hazel at MoBot

When you get the soil tested you might want to take a sample near the wall on the top as well as in other areas. It's a lovely wall and it looks like it was thoroughly mortared. Mortar, particularly when it's new, can leach alkaline compounds into the adjacent soil, which then becomes alkaline itself. Plants that like acidic conditions may not be happy there.

edit note: Another thought - if there are no weep holes in the wall you may be getting water containing salts or whatever backing up behind the wall, which could affect the soil there. The slope would direct all water to the wall.

Claire

This post was edited by claire on Thu, Jun 13, 13 at 11:17

Tina - You commented: "I will have to take sections in baby steps with the planting since I cannot drop hundreds of dollars at once."

I would spend this summer getting the soil test done, adding whatever amendments are needed to the soil and some compost, put down multiple-sheet-thick layers of newspaper or a layer of corrugated cardboard (whichever is easier to come by for you) and a light layer of mulch. Then plan to start planting in the early fall this year when plants are less likely to be stressed out and add things as you have budget next year. Spend the summer researching what you want to plant, and visiting nurseries to look at plants and get suggestions, and buy plants only if you are good at caring for them in pots.

I suggest this because without good info on soil and amount of sun, you could waste a lot of money on plants that won't thrive. For instance, I had mock oranges in an area with somewhat dry, unimproved soil at a previous house, and they never looked great. If you have done the needed prep ahead of time, the area will look tidy with an even layer of mulch and you can add plants as your budget allows, choosing the most obvious areas first. I am not saying that I never buy plants on impulse, but I don't plant them until I have a bed ready with whatever soil improvements are needed for the whole thing, and I try to find spots where they will do well since I am not fond of killing plants or watching them slowly decline.

DtD, the sun hits this area at 1PM until sunset. The self-sowed rudbeckia on the left next to the stairs loves this sight with all the rain and sun.

Marty and nhbabs, thanks for the info on the soil and for the step by step plan. Now, it needs to stop raining and the sun has to come out so I can take pictures of the sight at various times to show the shade and sun exposure.

Claire, now that you mentioned salt...this area is next to the sidewalk and street. I know that all winter the snow was plowed onto our yard as the big DOT and town trucks plowed the street. In fact, when the snow become too much, the town use bucket loaders to put mounds of snow in our yard. I think the salt may have contributed to the dying grass.

Thank you, All.

-Tina

Here's a short article from the "Wildflowers of Connecticut" website that may help you in your planning. This website is wonderful, a great way to spend a lot of time dreaming.

Here is a link that might be useful: Gardening with Native Plants