Here is some management information from the University of Connecticut.

"Some varieties are known to be resistant to the squash vine borer, such as Waltham butternut. Wherever possible, look for resistant or tolerant varieties if this insect is a problem in your area. The order of preference from most preferred to least is: winter squash (including Hubbard squash), summer squash, pumpkin, gourd, cucumber, and muskmelon.
Lightweight row covers can be used to protect plants until the vines come into flower. Row covers used to prevent insects from reaching the crop must be anchored down on all sides or the moths will crawl under. Remove covers at bloom time to allow for pollination.
Begin scouting the garden in June. Sites heavily infested last year are more likely to have infestations this year. Look for borer eggs near the base of the stem, and remove them before they hatch. Also look for small holes near the stem base, with frass (castings) or ooze coming from the stem. If holes or other damage are seen, cut that area on the stem partly open, lengthwise, to confirm the presence of borer larvae, and destroy and remove any found. Or a sharpened wire may be used to seek out and kill each tunneling larva within the stem. After larvae are killed or removed, press the stem back together and cover with soil. In many cases the plant will heal and survive the injury if damage is not too extensive.
Moist soil heaped over the stem joints will allow new roots to grow along the vine, to help the plant survive even if the main stem base is damaged.
Entomophagous nematodes, of the type used against stem borers (rather than specifically against lawn grubs), are not widely available but can be used to control larvae of the squash vine borer. Inject into the squash plant stem, following directions on the product label.
One insecticide registered for home garden use in New York State for squash vine borer suppression is kaolin clay. It is important to control larvae before they enter the stem, because once they enter the stem, insecticides have little effect. Direct the spray to the stems of the plants near the base. Begin prior to infestation (starting about June 20 for most of New York State) and apply every 5 to 7 days as per label instructions.
To reduce the number of borers for the next year, destroy crop residue after harvest, and rotate planting
sites."

Personally, I'd go with Waltham butternut and with summerweight row covers.

Steve

Sorry that was from Cornell. Here's a link to a better fact sheet from URI. They suggest that you use a "trap crop" of Hubbard Squash. I think you already did that and your neighbors are thanking you for it. :~)

Steve

Here is a link that might be useful: Vine Borer Fact Sheet URI

That probably explains why my Hubbard's are all but finished (I found 6 borers in a single Hubbard vine today) and the Jarradale's are much less infested. I'll have a new plan of attack next year.

Have you had any experience with AzaMax?

http://generalhydroponics.com/site/index.php/products/maintenance/azamax1/

No experience with it. Remember though, it doesn't matter what insecticide you use, once the borers are inside the stems, nothing is effective. The only thing you can do then is to inject a pesticide into the stem itself. My sister used to do that by putting Carbaryl inside a hypodermic needle and injecting her squash vines. It seemed to work. Not very organic, however.

Steve