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figtreeundrgrnd

First Time Starting with Seeds

figtreeundrgrnd
18 years ago

Hi! This is the first time I'm starting my vegetables from seed. I'm getting daring in my old age!)

So far I've purchased Sudith Brandywine tomato, peppers, string beans and peas. I saved some seeds from a small french melon last year and would like to try growing it.

My basement is the only place I can set these up but it's rather cool and I need advice for a light source.

Do I really need to spend $50 for a lamp?

I've read that I can sow the peas directly into the ground...some soak first...some don't. When to start the others?

Is this Spring Madness:>?

Comments (6)

  • leira
    18 years ago

    You definitely don't need to spend $50 for a lamp.

    You can buy a 4' shop light at Home Depot or another hardware store, and use the cheapest 40W fluorescent bulbs you can find, which will probably be "cool whites." Keep the lights very close to (but not touching) the seedlings, and raise it as they get taller. For seedlings, the intensity of light is more important than the spectrum, so the expensive lights are unnecessary.

    You might have a little bit of trouble getting tomatoes and peppers to germinate in a basement (they prefer warmer temps), but it's not unheard of, and maybe you can find a somewhat warmer spot, like near the furnace or the dryer.

    Perhaps you could start the seeds more densely in the house, then move them to the basement and the growlights after germination and/or after transplanting into individual pots.

    Seedling heat mats are available, but can be pricy. I thought I'd found a great price when I found some for $20 each, but then I saw the same ones at my local hardware store for $8.

    Don't forget to "harden off" your seedlings before you send them outside to the cruel world of the garden. A search will find lots of info on the topic.

    People generally* plant beans and peas directly outdoors. Peas go in "as soon as the soil can be worked," which means not frozen, and not so wet that it's clumpy. Beans don't go in until "the danger of frost is past." You can look up your average last frost date on the web, or in a garden book.

    * I do have one garden book that suggests that peas can be started indoors and carefully transplanted outdoors. This is somewhat unorthodox, but I might try it this year.

    Good luck,
    Linda

  • Nurmey
    18 years ago

    Linda is dead on with her advice. I've been growing in my cool basement for years with a shop light set up. It's actually better to have cool rather than too warm for your seedlings. The cool helps grow great root systems and prevents the tops from growing too large, too fast.

    I only have one warming pad so I keep my other flats with seeds that require warm germination upstairs on my dining room table until I see sprouts. Then I move them downstairs under the lights. Many folks use the top of their refrigerator for this purpose also.

    Have fun with your seeds. And Yes, it is spring madness!

  • meldy_nva
    18 years ago

    Most plants want warmth for the germination and then do much better with cooler air as the sprouts grow. A refrig top is a lovely idea unless you have a cat who might consider seed-trays a sort of cushion you put in his/her area (I learned that the hard way; even a 5-lb cat can really flatten new sprouts) -- now I use the top of the water heater; just barely room for 3 skinny flats but the heat is both constant and even; as soon as one flat sprouts it gets moved to under the lights, and then another flat can be seeded. I also use a couple mats, but for most vegs I prefer the mats for maintaining warmth after sprouting, until the true leaves grow. Keep in mind that I also use an oscillating fan in the growing area, because the variable air movement seems to encourage sturdier stems while discouraging damp-off.

    Both peas and beans are best direct-sown -- their roots get too big too fast for most potting techniques. For me, green peas get planted when the soil temperature 2+" below surface reaches 45-50*F, green beans at 66-68*F and limas at 72*F; I always make a 3" deep row and put 1" fine vermiculite in the V-trough's bottom (at about the proper spacing), and then put the bean/pea seed on top of the vermiculite and cover with another 1" of the vermiculite. I rarely lose seed to being planted when it's too wet! I also securely fasten a strip of row cover over the seeded area; it does dual-duty in keeping the soil warm for sprouting and then in hiding the new sprouts from the birds and squirrels.

    Your melon is likely to want constant heat from seed on but many melons do not like to be transplanted; try starting a few seeds in peat or paper pots about 3-4 weeks before you expect to plant out; and then plant pot and all (sometimes that will fool the melon into thinking it wasn't transplanted). I wouldn't plant melons in-ground until the soil temp is at least 75*F, but I do use row-cover to speed up the soil-warming process. Oh, and do grow the melons so they can climb [or be tied to] a trellis or sturdy fence! Keeps most of the slugs off, and makes for much easier picking.

    Have fun-- it takes a bit of care and effort, but the thrill of growing your very own plants is indescribable.

  • figtreeundrgrnd
    Original Author
    18 years ago

    Many, many thanks to leira, nurmey and meldy nva. I'm glad to know that I can use the existing flourescent lights already in the basement.
    I probably will invest in a heating mat...to get the tomatoes started.
    I look forward to this..thanks again!>)

  • liz1234
    17 years ago

    Hi!
    I am doing a science project, and for it I am added 10 mL of salt to 50 mL of soil. I did the same for sugar, and baking soda and than planted plain old soil. I am going to evenly water each plant (not too much, but not too little). DO you have any theries on what will grow and what won't?
    Also, how long do you think they will take to germinate?

  • alblancher
    17 years ago

    Hellow Liz

    A lot depends on the plants you are putting in the soil but I would imagine that the plants with salt and baking soda will have a hard time. You may get some germination but once the new roots start trying to take nutrients from the soil the seedling will have problems. Sugar shouldn't have any affect because it will be broken down quickly by bacteria and fungi in the potting soil or falling into your soil from the air.

    The amount of water you use will affect how much of your additives are washed out of the soil and unavailable to the plants.

    All three of your additives alter how the plant pulls nutrients and water from the soil. Remember that roots can only absorb minerals disolved in water. Your additives change this balance.

    Next experiment why not try germinating a bunch of plants. Maybe something easy like pea plants and let them grow a couple of inches high. The experiment will be to dissolve the salt in water and use this mixture to water some of your seedlings. You can do the same with a solution of baking soda and a solution of sugar water. Don't forget to keep some plants as a control that you water with plain tap water.

    Good luck and keep us posted

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