How well plants survive a move depends in part on how they have fared (vitality) over the summer & early fall. If the plant is happy in its location & has plenty of energy stored, its going to tolerate the treatment better than if it's just moping along. The age of the plant is also important, with younger plant material being more vigorous than its older counterpart(s) & more tolerant of being uprooted.

You may wish to delay moving the plant until spring if they are larger, older plants. If you prune a % (I would probably suggest several alternating cuts around the circumference which would sever about 1/2 of the roots) of the roots with a sharp spade now, it will force finer rootage nearer the base of the plant that can be included in the rootball when you undertake the move. More info is needed to determine if the preceding step is appropriate and how far from the base of the plant the cuts should be. It's also an advantage to be sure the plant is adequately supplied with fertilizer (if needed) in the right amount and mix prior to a move.

Al

tapla's suggestions are very useful. I like to move mine in early March when the shrubs are still dormant but will start waking up soon. I have had better luck that way.

Thank you, tapla and pitimpinai.

The shrubs looked pretty happy this last year - we cut down a 60ft tall pine that was growing on top of them and a bunch of rose bushes. I'm not sure how old the plants are - but I'm guessing that they're pretty old since most of the plant material from the previous owner has been older.

I'll take your advice and cut around them to encourage a good root ball, and move them in the spring.

Thanks again!

And I don't think Al covered your question about pruning the top of your plant. It is not recommended that you remove any of the top portion of a plant that is about to be transplanted 'in order to compensate for root loss'.

I agree that this is not the best time for transplanting in your climate.....and I wish more folks knew about the root pruning technique that Al mentioned.

Thanks, rhizo_1.

If I'm going to cut around for the roots and then wait until spring to move, can I still prune this fall? They're a little out of control. How severe can I prune?

I know you said the plants are "pretty old", but that doesn't tell enough to give accurate advice on the root pruning.

If you go forward with moving them next spring, I would not remove any of the top of the plant until late next fall at the earliest - early spring. '07 would be better. A) The plant is still photosynthesizing and storing energy in root and cambial tissues. Cut the top now = cut the energy supply = less stored energy when you transplant in spring. B) There is a growth regulator (or hormone - auxin) that is produced in the tip of each growing stem/branch. This hormone is important in stimulating root growth. When you prune, you remove the source of the growth regulator, the effect of which is stimulation of top growth instead of roots (by another growth regulator that auxin sort of keeps in check). Top pruning now would limit the benefits of the root-pruning and in spring it will retard root growth and slow plants' re-establishment.

Good luck.

Al

Thanks again, Al. I appreciate the thorough explaination!

I'll hold off my pruning until after they recover from the move.