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Raspberry Supports

Posted by sboku74 Seattle, WA (My Page) on
Mon, Feb 27, 12 at 12:55

I have received some (10-12) bareroot raspberry plants and want to plant these in my garden. This will be my first time planting raspberries and am quite excited!
Although I have prepared the bed for them, I have not decided on a support system.
What would be the easiest way to support my new plants? I don't know if this will work, so don't want to spend too much on the supports (I have seen some elaborate systems online!)
Thanks in advance.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Raspberry Supports

If your ground is not rocky, get the longest metal field stakes you can find (the green ones with a fluke on the end) and drive them deep into the ground. Then use some vinyl-coated wire between the stakes for supporting the berry canes.

Wood stakes require specialized wood or special treatment below ground (cement, etc.), plus a lot of digging.

You could get by with pounding 2x2s in the ground near each clump of canes and just lassoing the canes around the stakes, but that type of stake won't last long unless it is pulled out and stored away every wet season. Using metal rebar in this situation would work also.

Raspberries will spread via underground roots over the years and fill in the row. That is why most people use the stake/wire method.

Most home-garden raspberry plantings do not present a heavy load and the support can be fairly simple. Blackberries are another matter.


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RE: Raspberry Supports

I use metal t-posts (generally used for livestock fencing) for the end posts and baling twine for "wire." It needn't be anything fancy; I just used what I had on hand. Be patient... it can take a couple years before your plants start producing nicely.


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RE: Raspberry Supports

but you'll be rewarded with the BEST FOOD EVER!


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RE: Raspberry Supports

There are usually three ways to stake raspberries, hedgerow trellis systems, double T trellis or T trellis or V trellis systems. However, double T or T raspberry system is most suitable, although may have some cost increase in stake purchasing, but it does make a better harvest,because this system can give raspberry more light and more air and its steady structures successfully give their healthy growing great support.

Staking in a right way is very promising for healthy and prosperous growth of raspberry, tomato and cucumber in Farms. Especially for raspberry, the stake systems may probably need to be supporting for around 10 years, which is nearly impossible for metal T posts and wood stakes going through. Watering and sun exposure bring fatal damage to wood and metal stakes in years' growing.

Fiberglass Stakes are naturally suitable for humidity environment, will not rot or rust and no pest problem. Specially handled, fiberglass stakes resist UV, will not be fragile after long time sun exposure. Its reinforced roving and mat features great strength for heavy duty planting support.

Wellco is launching a professional raspberry systems made in fiberglass, structured in 8ft post with two 30 inch cross bar across the top and middle of each post. Stretch lengths of 12~16 gauge wire from each cross bar will make it there perfect for raspberry staking.

If you want to get more info, can visit http://www.wellcoindustries.com/landscape-products-services/stake.html or email ivy@wellcoindustries.com.

Here is a link that might be useful: raspberry stake


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RE: Raspberry Supports

What kind of raspberries? Because black raspberries may not need much supplemental support at all. For my native black-cap raspberries, I just got the largest tomato cage I could find, and it works just fine. The canes can bend to touch the ground, where they root and replace the canes that die. All I have to do is direct them to where I want them to grow, then move the tomato cage.

For red, purple or yellow raspberries, you might want a 2- or 3-wire support system, depending on whether they need to be pruned twice or three times a year. Every year, wind the new canes along a single wire devoted only to that year's new canes. The next year, train the new canes to a different wire, and the third year, if applicable, train that year's new canes on the third wire. Then each year, you will harvest the canes that grow on just one (or two) wire(s), and remove the canes after the harvest in their second (or third) year.

Here is a link that might be useful: cane fruit guide


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