Culms of black bamboo not inside a larger clump always bend way over under the weight of water or snow.

For tall plants use short pots. For short plants use tall.

First, IME, you may want to consider that you will have to break the pot to pot into a new pot. Hopefully not. Second, when you do, you'll want to think about what you considered first.

That is: if it is in a sheltered area with some heat, it will do OK. And that means spreading and outgrowing pots. You can rip it out of there and make it unhappy and have to recover, which will give you some time.

I like black bamboo. It doesn't go crazy like many other bamboos, but that doesn't mean it behaves like we are used to.

Dan

If the black bamboo takes a liking to you and the new pot, you could eventually expect several shoots to mature. The wind forces will increase as well. I would want such a pot and soil to weigh at least 50 pounds, perhaps much more. Otherwise loosely tie the bamboo clump to some structure. Putting it in a corner would reduce the number of wind directions causing a tipping problem and increase the sound of bamboo scraping in the corner. Limiting the number of canes will keep things simpler.

One more question: if black bamboo is planted in an unrestricted location, how deep do the roots go? This might help me decide on which pot to use. I appreciate the responses so far. It's such a pretty plant and this patio area is almost like another room in our home so I want to continue to use the bamboo here.

Its a runner bamboo so you'll need to control it if you put it in the ground. Depends on your soil, but absolute minimum 12", likely more if it likes it there.

Dan

Couldn't readily find anything about overturned potted bamboo in the Bamboo Forum, but did come across "remove and divide every three years" and "don't use a pot with inward-curving shoulder else it is very difficult to remove bamboo from pot". So use one with continuously tapered-out sides.

You are right: it doesn't want to come out of the pot. I've cut around the outside of the pot but the roots seem to be stuck to the sides of the pot. I think I'll try and soak it in water for a few hours, but if it doesn't want to come out easily, I'll sacrifice the pot. btw, it does taper quite well, but still is stuck.

I can see soaking helping. What may serve you well isn't a lovely pot, but a serviceable one that is heavy enough to hold the plant without breaking and you can manhandle (personhandle?) to re-pot.

Windthrow is an issue in a windy spot. You can decorate a cheap cement behemoth to make it OK, but the plant is the idea anyway, so why focus on the pot beyond tough and heavy? Next is the garage sale crawl where you look for a cheap machete and pry bar that you'll save for the next time. Surely heading out east toward the orchards of the Osoyoos that shouldn't be a problem.

Dan

Personally I prefer to grow Blackstem bamboo in oak wine barrels; good size for the health of the bamboo, won't tip over from wind loads, and cheap enough that it can be sacrificed when it comes time to divide the bamboo. Here in the SF Bay Area, I find I need to divide and replant this bamboo about every 3 years to keep it happy, but my plants get automatic drip irrigation and fertilizer twice a year.

If you are growing it in the ground, in my experience a 2 foot deep rhizome barrier is usually adequate, but make sure to leave it at least 3 inches above finished grade so you can clearly see potential escapee rhizomes over the top before they can get away from you.