Hello locust8,
I'm hoping to be happy later with mine as they are still young.But that's part of what growing things is about,expecting something good.
Last Fall,I planted three Pawpaws,a Mango,an NC-1 and an Overleese.It will be a few years til fruiting.I also have some seedlings doing well in treepots.
There is also a small Serviceberry that is starting to bloom in the back yard and may get some berries.
I also put in a planter a 4 in 1 Plum that has a Puget Gold Apricot on it and a Fantasia Nectarine in another.
There are two Mulberries,a Wellington planted last year and a Black Persian just planted and another arriving soon,a dwarf Gerardi.
I'm looking forwards to tasting some good fruit someday.Brady

What a great question. Honeycrisp gets the prize this year for productivity and keeping (even with a little bitter pit). I love my Karmijn but she is a diva (scab, unproductive and premature fruit drop). Sweet 16 is tasty but didn't keep as well as I'd hoped - but made nice juice.

Looking forward to Holstein. Lots of newbies to love later. I have a compact Stella, Rainier, Angela and Lapins for sweet cherries but none productive yet. Same with Aurora pear (looking healthy), Conference (less so)and my Stanley plum. I also putter around with blueberries, raspberries and gojis. Taking a break from strawbs. It is hard waiting but so well worth it.

Have you ever brought a fruit from the old apple tree to have someone at a fruit festival ID? There is also a great resource by the Seattle Tree Fruit Society on their website. The website also describes how to take and save a scion until you can bring it to be grafted. You never know, it could be an original.

@quillfred, I'm glad you mentioned Honeycrisp, because I just planted one and I've been debating whether or not it would be worth it. Unfortunately I don't think I've given it enough space and I'm going to have to move it. Not sure if it's better to do it now with the leaves just emerging or wait until Fall when the root structure will be larger. Bad planning on my part.

I will have to try that--taking a scion from the old tree. I saw the Seattle Fruit Tree Society's website, it's great, really comprehensive. That would be pretty cool if it is an original. So hard to tell. Every time I think I've found an id match, there's a significant diff in characteristic. I will see if they can help me. Thanks for the idea!

I am with 'quillfred' on this one . My best fruiting trees are HoneyCrisp . 3 of my 20+ apples are HC. Last year was the best production year so far . In ground 3 years, Bought from Burntridge nursery.
My new thing is figs . I have 17 varieties rooted so far.

Asian pears DanBae and 20th Century are very productive and no problems. Holstein, Karmijn and Williams Pride are favorite apples. Stella cherry needs no polinator. There are so many small fruits that do well here. I was taught how to graft apples by a neighbor about 20 years ago. Apples are very simple. The next year I grafted about 60 varities of apples - scionwood exchanges take place at fruit clubs where there are hundreds of varieties. I loved having the heirloom varieities even if the fruit was terrible. Beauty plum is also self fertile.

My experience is in the Portland and rural Longview areas. Italian prune and Bosc pear are productive and trouble-free. I have some apple trees which do extremely well, except for apple scab. I applied a few pounds of lime per tree two years ago, and the scab disappeared. Not sure if it's just a coincidence. I give my apple trees a deep irrigation in mid-August. It greatly improves fruit size and quality. Cherries are good where there are pollinators. In SW Portland, I got almost no cherries. In rural SW Washington, I get tons of cherries. Chestnut trees are healthy, but the nuts are small. Blueberries, black and red raspberries, hardy kiwis, and Aronias all do extremely well here. Blueberries need a sandy loam soil that does not dry out. The Burnt Ridge catalog is a great local source of info about fruit and nut trees.

how are your pawpaws doing?

The Pawpaws are slowly getting bigger,with a few flowers,but no fruit yet.The largest one is a Wabash,at about four feet,that came as a whip,a couple of years ago,from a grower in Tennessee.
I've been planting seed from different sources.I have a few plants growing from the Kentucky Champion tree and some from the only fruit I've ever tried,that is growing in Fremont,CA Brady

Do you keep them in the shade or full sun? I have 3 ft trees and I"m still debating where to plant them in the ground.

I lost a Sunflower variety that seemed to be old enough and was about three feet.These also seem sensitive to being transplanted.
The Wabash looks to have turned the corner,being in the open.There is a Kentucky Champion nearby,that is a about a year or two younger,with some leaf burn happening,but should pull through.
A Mango and NC-1 get morning sunlight only and are doing okay.I needed to move an Overleese in the Spring,so the plant was dug up and potted and put in a greenhouse and is growing well. Brady

I lost a Sunflower variety that seemed to be old enough and was about three feet

I've had small grafted paw paws spoiled by slugs.

Slugs will go after young Pawpaw,something that isn't mentioned too much in writings about the plant.Also,the guy in Tennessee,who sent me the Wabash,said Ambrosia Beetles killed a Pawpaw and Persimmon of his.I'm not sure if those insects live in the PNW. Brady

I grow a lot of fruit trees just across the Sound from you: figs, apples, pears, cherries. I list my favorites and the best performers on my blog Tall Clover Farm . Just click on the fruit category for posts about that said fruit. Best cooking apple is Bramley's Seedling, great producer. As for cherries, I'd plant a late ripening variety as the early varieties are wiped out by the robins. Later on they seem to leave them alone. My favorite pear is Forelle.

My 6-year-old pluot and Satsuma plum trees set fruit like crazy this year, probably because the nice weather in late winter brought out the pollinators. Then we had some wet, windy weather a couple of months ago, and the weight of the fruit snapped every branch on both trees. So now all the fruit is down close to ground level. The branches are still connected to the tree by bark, and they are not dying. I'm going to see if they survive like this.

'Spencer Hollywood' ('Hollywood' of contemporary commerce, for the most part) appears chronically prone to this, apparently you have to thin the fruit.