Vaccinium moupinese
Ilex crenata 'Lemon Gem', 'Helleri'
Lonicera nitida 'Twiggy'
Hebe albicans 'Red Edge', H. mckeanii - both need exceptional drainage.
Daphne 'Lawrence Crocker'
Abelia 'Kaleidoscope'
Berberis x stenophylla 'Corallina Compacta'
Escallonia 'Newport Dwarf'
Pieris 'Cavatine', 'Prelude', 'Little Heath'

Some of these may get wider (and a few possibly taller) than you expect but all will tolerate a reasonable amount of pruning. And of course there are zillions of dwarf conifers as well but a note of caution - the term "dwarf" when applied to conifers only relates to the rate of growth, not the ultimate size. If allowed to grow unchecked for however many years it may take, even the dwarfs can get huge.

Mountain Laurels, VERY slow growing, prolific blooming in late spring/early summer, beautiful foliage year round.

Kalmia latifolia is often not a complete success unless conditions are just right, And except for one or a few dwarf cultivars on the market will get much bigger than wanted in this instance, in time.

Stock that has been sold as Berberis buxifolia 'Nana' here often (always?) does not fit the bill, becoming larger and more open than it is supposed to and producing flowers and fruits. You would be much better off with the other evergreen barberry suggested previously.

B. microphylla (syn. B. buxifolia) is also only partially evergreen. B. x media 'Red Jewel' is interesting for being a dwarf "evergreen" shrub with glossy, purple leaves but is also unfortunately apt to go partly bare in winter.

The clone or form of Vaccinium moupinense being sold here now is a real eye-catcher at this time of the year, due to the new growth being red. The rest of the time its leaves are interesting.

There are hundreds of Calluna vulgaris cultivars that do well here. Ericas too though some Ericas spread a lot more than all Callunas. Heathers and heaths are great with conifers.

Don't forget dwarf Rhododendrons many can take full sun like R.impeditum, 'Ramapo', the bigger 'PJM' and many more.

My 'Crimson Pygmy' barberries exceeded three feet tall and five feet wide....not cute little mounds. Ditto 'Magic Carpet' spirea though not evergreen.

Note that 'Crimson Pygmy' is a synonym of 'Atropurpurea Nana'.

Regarding 'Kalmia latifolia is often not a complete success unless conditions are just right, And except for one or a few dwarf cultivars on the market will get much bigger than wanted in this instance, in time.', have you actually grown these? I have and I have SEVERAL I've been growing for years in a variety of conditions. When I say slow growing I mean a few inches a year and I've never lost a one to our winters and I don't baby them. They are very solid in my garden and I have 5 of them, always healthy. Even if you have enough years in you to get one bigger than you want they would be easily pruned then back to 3" of growth a year. The blooms are gorgeous and there is a large variety of beautiful color combinations of whites, reds and maroon. What's cool about them is in most areas they're not common at all so they definitely go noticed.

Wow!! Thanks everyone. I think I'm going to use Ilex 'Helleri'. I have Spirea 'Golden Elf',Berberis 'Bagatella', Pinus 'Valley Cushion', Acer 'Red Dragon' Pinus 'Oregon Green' Calluna 'Spring Torch' and a ton of other stuff. My husband lives by the book, Garden Design Illustrated by John A. Grant. He has landscaped many homes (as a hobby) using this book a as guidline with amazing results. I'm very excited. Thanks all, Kaysee.

I've recommended the Grant book on this web site many times.

I have several Daphne "summer ice" that are doing great plus they almost bloom year round for me.

Kalmia latifolia, 'Minuet' fits your bill. It's small, fairly slow growing, and has a real pretty bloom.
Here's mine.
Mike
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Here's a close up.
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Mike, how in the world do you get your kalmias to bloom so prolifically? I now have 3 in my garden (1 in a container) and they usually have 3-5 clusters of blooms, nowhere near yours!

Fairly good soil and partial shade, especially from the hottest southwestern exposure. I do water a few times during the driest part of the summer because of root competition from nearby trees. I have been using woodchips for a mulch for years, and even use it for a top dressing on the groundcovers.
I think the main problem associated with the problems of Kalmis is siting. Usually in a too dry and exposed place in the garden.
I was doing a yard makeover for a customer in Shoreline who said, "Get this rhododendron outta here". I explained that it wasn't a rhododendron and I could plant it in a more desirable place in her garden and it would do just fine. She didn't take my suggestion and I ended up taking it home. That has happened to me with Kalmias several times over the years, all because they were planted in the wrong spot. Some people did take my suggestions however.
Transplanting Kalmias is a little tricky, but if normal good transplanting procedures are followed, it can be done without problems. Watering good until established is the key if transplanting during the growing season.
I have a few 'Ostbo Red' in too much shade for maximum blooming and will eventually move them. The shade will increase as the years go by, despite me cutting off the lower branches of the trees to the south. It seems that my garden beds need major shuffling every few years because of over planting. I used to propagate a lot of plants from seeds and cuttings.
'Ostbo Red'
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Mike