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nezbine

Bulk compost reviews?

nezbine
9 years ago

I need to get a full truckload of compost for top dressing/mulch in vegetable & other beds.

A few years ago a truckload sold to me as Cedar Grove (but not directly from them) was too hot and brought in a lot of weed seeds - things we'd never seen before and right on top of the mulch, by the hundreds or even thousands. I see now that Cedar Grove booted some suppliers for selling other products as Cedar Grove, but also that some reviewers here say they bought it in person at Cedar Grove and had these problems.

My options here in Tacoma seem to be:
Cedar Grove
Cascade Compost
Pierce County Prep

Do any of you have any very recent (2013 or newer) experience with any of these, good or bad?

I can handle a few bits of glass or plastic, if it's not outrageous. But if I'm using it as top dressing it really must be weed seed free.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Laura

Comments (3)

  • gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
    9 years ago

    It maybe weed seed-free when purchased but that's not going to guarantee it stays weed free long ;-)) Compost is an extremely fertile seed bed and any weed seeds that blow in with the wind or are carried in by any sort of physical means (animals, birds, humans tracking through, equipment , etc.) will germinate readily.

    Cedar Grove has an excellent reputation in the commercial compost world. Its composting operation is pretty much state of the art. Generally any compost that is "hot" enough to neutralize disease pathogens and other toxins will kill off any weed seeds that may be present.

  • nezbine
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks, Gardengal, but it definitely was the compost.

    I had several truckloads of Cedar Grove before that one, and didn't have unusual problems. Yes, it's fertile, but with that last load we suddenly had buffalo bur, nettles, milk thistle, and lots of less-noxious weeds, immediately after spreading it.

    It was so hot it was turning to ash inside the pile. I think it wasn't finished composting.

    I realize this may not have been real Cedar Grove, but it made me distrust the product mightily. That vendor no longer has Cedar Grove. When I asked why, they maligned the product. But on further investigation I learned that Cedar Grove dumped some retailers for selling other products and calling it Cedar Grove. Perhaps that vendor was one of them, I don't know.

    What I'm asking for is people with recent experience with Cedar Grove, Cascade, or Pierce County Prep to chime in with how it went for them in the last couple of years. I need to know if one or more of these products has been satisfactory for others recently.

    Thanks,
    Laura

  • oliveoyl3
    9 years ago

    I don't have a review on the bulk compost, but can give you some other ideas depending on why you want top dressing or mulch to spread.

    If your current garden soil is weedy:

    1. Try sheet mulching
    Put lesser composted (more chunky & likely weedy materials) on top of soil, spread overlapping layers of newspaper like frosting on a cake, moisten, & top with the weed free purchased mulch. Cedar Grove bagged soils worked great that way for my daughter & her husband last year in their raised beds.

    When planting & digging through that weed free layer... be sure to push aside the mulch & replace when done to keep the weed seed bank under that layer of mulch.

    2. Start seeds in potting soil (or blended 50:50 with bagged compost) then mulch

    Use transplants OR direct sow after placing at least 1" layer of weed free potting soil (or blended 50:50 with bagged compost) in your planting row, hole or mound before sowing & top with more of it.

    Then mulch away from stems using
    -dried grass clippings for veg garden in light layers not too thick

    Dried by spreading out thinly on a tarp & redistributed a few times until dry. If not done by evening cover to protect from dew & continue the next day. Essentially, making loose hay and since short lengths are easy to spread with fingers between plants. Observe lawn before mowing to remove any weed seed heads or mow before going to seed. Also, only if you've not used weed & feed on your lawn. I've not had a weed problem from grass clippings.

    -arborist wood chips for landscaping beds (get on the list to get them delivered or rent a chipper if you have woody debris of your own)

    -used coffee grounds from St*rbucks mixed with above depending on which garden you're using it on darkens the appearance keeps moisture well plus attracts more worms.

    3. need more volume or depth in raised vegetable beds?
    Consider increasing volume by purchasing topsoil or mixing in bagged products of composted manures, peat moss, vermiculite and/or perlite.

    4. For next year make your own compost, leaf mold, and sheet mulch beds in fall.
    Run the lawnmower with bagger to shred leaves while mowing grass to use as top mulch or put in plastic bags for leaf mold to use in spring.
    Also farmyard manures ideally turned a few times mixed with bedding. Some are weed free like goat, rabbit & alpaca or llama if just manure kept in a covered bin. Other manures can be loaded, so be cautious about any fed weed free hays, grass hay, or local pastures if weedy. King and Pierce counties have free manure share programs where farmers allow you to pick up. Some even load for you.
    If you don't put seeds in your compost bin & keep it covered it won't matter if you make cold or hot compost.

    Hope that helps!