Have your soil analyzed before deciding which nutrients need to be applied.

Unless you are needing to fertilize a farming operation, I doubt you need to find ingredients such as you describe in large quantities - after mixing it all together, you'd have way more than you need or can use in a reasonable time frame. There is a very good reason suppliers provide organic fertilizers in already blended formulations. The proportions are correct, there is no mixing involved and one can obtain them in usable and efficient sizes.

What exactly do you intend to fertilize and how large of an area are we talking about? An already blended all-purpose organic fert would work for just about any application but it is always a good idea to have a professional soil test done before doing any fertilizing other than just routine nutrient replacement. And that (routine nutrient replacement) can be accomplished as easily and far more cheaply just by mulching with compost :-)

I bought my cottonseed meal and kelp meal at my local Cenex in Burley WA.

Advising someone to not waste their money on nutrients they may not need is probably not "lecturing". It is also possible to poison the soil with over-application. Phosphorus in particular is often high in various products, cannot be easily gotten rid of if overdone. (Of course, most organics are not as loaded with this as some chemical fertilizers.) And excess nutrients leach out and enter the water supply.

 Be conservative in what chemicals you add to a landscape, regardless of their source.
 Any organic substance, natural or synthetic, can cause environmental problems when added in
excess of what a landscape system can absorb and utilize.
 ItÂs not important whether a chemical is natural or synthetic. What is important is knowing the
properties (like toxicity and environmental persistence) of chemicals we apply to landscapes

Here is a link that might be useful: Organic superiority.pdf (application/pdf Object)

Far be it for me to differ with Linda Chalker-Scott, but I think the linked article glosses over some of the differences between "chemical" and "organic" fertilizers, namely, water solubility. Nitrates and phosphates are the same, but the speed of delivering a concentrated water-soluble 24-16-16 "chemical" fertilizer poses a much greater risk of soil and groundwater poisoning than water-insoluble 8-0-0 seed meal and some water-insoluble 0-3-0 rock phosphate (or bone meal at, I dunno, 0-8-0). A pound of MiracleGro concentrate spilled on the ground poses much more of a risk than 15 pounds of seed meal.

A 50# bag of seed meal, or alfalfa meal, can be used for a year or more in even a modest-sized garden and at a cost that is a fraction of commercial fertilizers, whether "chemical" or organic. On top of that, mixing one's own fertilizer allows you to adapt the mix to particular needs, going light on nutrient components that aren't needed. I think it's OK for someone to get a bag a seed meal to use as fertilizer.

Thank you everybody for input.
The reason why I need yo mix myself is to save money.
Buying prepared stuff is goona cost more. I qam inclined to do gardening for a while so I am o'key with having a lot. I know exactly the proportions I need.
As for the soil test heard from scientist and professional in the field that western WA soils pretty much acidic and poor in nutrients( the plot I am in was under the grass for a long time, I am not talking about some places which are pretty rich, just talking in general about our area), because the frequent winter rains leach the soil of them .
These organic fertilizer is save to use in mesure and it will not do any harm to my soil content only good.
but thank you to everyone for your help!
I will check out these store in Issaqua, if they have a better deal I found in Sumner.

The soils map for my county shows a patchwork quilt of distinctly different soils.

>it will not do any harm to my soil content only goodSee discussion linked to above:

Any organic substance, natural or synthetic, can cause environmental problems when added in
excess of what a landscape system can absorb and utilize

I know a guy named Scott, I met him in Portland recently and he was an oilseed producer and supplier of oil and meal. I know he had canola meal and camellina, sold bulk per pound and wholesale per ton. I just looked up his number its 503-473-6367

If any one else is looking for their own seed meals for fertilizers...

When I have visited The Skagit Farmer's Supply feed stores in Freeland & Stanwood, WA I saw several amendments in 40-50# plain bags with labels on racks. Prices seemed reasonable and there were a wide variety of products -- bonemeal, calcium carbonate, alfalfa meal, some other seed meals I can't recall, kelp, etc.

They have more stores, but they're all north of Seattle. If you're growing a large garden or have livestock it might be worth it to make a trip for your supplies and feed.

Someone highly recommended the feed store in Conway for chicken and rabbit feed a few bucks less than Del's stores south of Seattle. They might have soil amendments for organic farmers as well at lower prices.

It seems like if the bag is fancy or the label markets to hobby gardeners the cost goes up.

Alfalfa pellets sold for horses in 40# bags was only about $10 and less than the alfalfa seed meal. My bag from a few years ago still has some left for the heavy feeders like roses, dahlias, & daylily.

I learned from Ciscoe Morris this winter that it's also alkaline, so don't put it on hydrangea if you want blue flowers or rhodies/azaelas. Whoops! We bought a bag of alfalfa pellets for our parents and had spread it around their flowering shrubs, bulbs, and dahlias the past 2 years in spring. It would probably take more than we gave it to change their hydrangea's color, but you never know.

I learned from Ciscoe Morris this winter that it's also alkaline

Was that in reference to alfalfa meal? If so, that's incorrect.......pH of ~5.7 (depends on the source), which puts it definitely on the acidic end of things.

I'm not overly surprised. Ciscoe gets a lot of stuff not quite right :-)

The Seattle Farm Co-op has alfalfa pellets, coco fiber and various soil amendments on S Jackson and 18th). You don't have to be a member to buy there but you can get things special-ordered. Just add a dot com to the name to find them on the web.

They try to buy local and either organic or fairly natural stuff.

I think DeYoung's in Woodinville(next to Molbak's Nursery) has Cottonseed Meal in 50# sacks. 425.483.9600

Any feed store should have all the ingredients you need. I use Steve Solomon's recipe for my fertilizer. I buy the 50# bags and put them into plastic tubs for ease of access storage. Take from the tubs as much as I need to mix up 5 gallons or so of fert at a time. Kelp meal is the only expensive component going for about $75.00 for a 55 lb sack, however that will generally last me 3/4 years.

Pretty sure you are reading "growing vegetables west of the cascades" by Steve Solomon, the guy who started Territorial seed company. I plan on making this mix as well this season.

Oddly enough, Solomon has changed his formula in his last book. For the most part, he's removed magnesium from the mix. The lime portion recommended is now 50% ag lime and 50% gypsum.
And a great place to buy all the ingredients, premixed if you prefer, is at Concentrates Inc, in Portland, OR.
http://www.concentratesnw.com/

I would endorse reading his new book, he does change his formula and states not to use the previous one mainly based on magnesium causing compaction by bonding with clay and imbalanced soil becoming further imbalanced which can be hard to fix. It is called "The Intelligent Gardener". He also states that he has published many mistakes as have all gardening based writers, he continues to correct and pass on his wealth of knowledge.

If you got a soil test wouldn't you know if you needed magnesium or not?

As a Master Gardener, I always recommend a soil test if I am asked, but I am baffled by the condescending manner in which some of you answered natalija_gardener's question.
She asked where she could buy a product and some of you did indeed lecture her on why she should not make her own fertilizer, told her to get the soil test (why do you assume she did not?) and generally behaved in a very unkind manner.

There are many good reasons for mixing your own fertilizer and I will not go into depth about those reasons as that is not the question that was asked. This person has a right to do so and on a public forum also has the expectation that her question might be answered in a simple straightforward manner. I applaud all of those who did so!

it was six years ago....I think the time to chastise posters has long passed....

coming up on 7 years! I wonder if she ever did mix up that batch....

oh, yes ! I did - I am still making this mix all the time))))

good for you! How does the garden look?

well... I do my own garden plus I am part of gardening co-op! thank u for asking!

Natalija, some pictures would be nice. :-)

Mike

BTW, I second the recommendation for Concentrates. With the closure of Rain or Shine they are carrying more garden stuff in addition to feed.

I also second, or third, or whatever, ad nauseam, recommend a SOIL TEST first, and then go from there. But always, please, place natural/organic products, and not man-made chemicals onto our earth.