Judith, if a woodsy-ish area I'd probably go with some sort of hydrangea with the understanding of not much of a flower display for awhile. Why not one of the evergreen forms? H. seemanii or integrifolia? H. integrifolia 'Taiping Shan' has an attractive bronzey cast to the new growth so a handsome vine even if not in flower.

Wrap wire around it and plant evergreen clematis. Will shoot right up - unlike hydrangeas etc. Of course, it may soon end up looking like an explosion. But that's what happens when very quick growth is wanted and there is not a big space involved.

Otherwise, maybe Lonicera henryi. Not such a commonly appreciated favorite as the clematis but not as apt to go crazy either.

The clematis may drape down from the top of the stump enough that they will think it looks okay. As with all use of climbers in a limited space pruning and training to develop the desired habit (not everything all bunched up at the top of the support) greatly improves the results.

Thanks both of you.

What is the main difference between Hydrangea integrifolia and Pileostigia viburnoides (syn. Schizophragma viburnoides)?
They look very similar, but does the Pileostigia have more flowering than the H. integrifolia?

I have H. integrifolia and it does not bloom much in the shade but the flowering bud is a nice golf ball size, yet there is very little to the flowering when it opens up.

My Shizophragma looks nice and has flowers similar to H. anomela, but with tear drop shaped bracts, very unlike the flowers I've seen pictured on the internet of the P. (or S.) viburnoides.
My H. seemanii has not yet bloomed- but it is about 8 feet up the alder trunk now,-- so maybe next year, but I've read it may be slightly more tender than integrifolia.

I'm just trying to base my advice to my neighbor on what has occurred for me.
I'm also interested in the Pileostegia for myself if it is a better bloomer.

Ron,
thank you so much for reminding me of the Lonicera henryi. I have it growing up a hemlock that may be in need of removal. So I should get it pulled down and out of the way and back on to the shed it was supposed to grow on.
But being a non clinging vine, I'll have to see if the neighbors want to put up a cable or wire.

Another option thanks to our friend Maribeth (who lurks intsead of posts) is to grow a clinger like parthenocissus and then also get another nonselfclinger like the Lonicera or Clematis to grow up the parthenocissus.

Any thoughts?

Perhaps, the combo of colorful foliage climber & a type 3 clem might be their interest. If they don't want to cut the type 3 clem in spring maybe a type 1 would suffice that doesn't need pruning, but will totally smother that 10 foot stump.

Emerald Gaiety Euonymous will climb, but slow growing & not self clinging. Buy the largest available or maybe several. Will also hide the base of the clem which it will like.

I really like silvervein creeper for it's colorful spring & fall color as well as unique white veins in summer. Thanks to Jim I've found it roots easily from hardwood cuttings. They won't have to wait long to root some from the vine they purchase to get a rounded display or twine it around the stump.

Not sure what will happen if the clem twines around it and needs to be pruned.

Maybe they'd like golden hops as a backdrop to the type 3 clem. I don't mind pulling down the old hops vine, but it might be too much work if slippery in fall after frost for your neighbors.

If they want ivy there are small needlepoint types as well as variegated that aren't as vigorous as the Hedera on the invasive list.

The stump could be accented by a decorative birdhouse or weathervane. I've even seen a solar landscape light on a stump and quite lovely during night, but not as much during the day, though with foliage on trunk would have a better appearance.

Here is a link that might be useful: Parthenocissus henryana SILVERVEIN CREEPER

Just thought I'd add this suggestion to plant annual climber seeds next spring for more easy care color.

runner bean
morning glory
nasturitum

a single variety or a mix

I've bought the mix from Ed Hume seeds, but the hyacinth bean never sprout for me in my cold soil, but the others do fine.

They'd have to attach string at the top & cascade down for the climbers to cling or wrap the trunk in pea netting or welded wire.

Probably not enough room for all those. And often with combinations you have to prune and train to keep everyone playing well together, unless the size and vigor of each is perfectly matched with that of the others.

I don't remember bracts on Pileostegia, you may be thinking that because you have seen it placed in Schizophragma somewhere it will have bracts like S. hydrangeoides. The important point about the latter for me is that I have noticed it stays in color much longer than Hydrangea anomala petiolaris where both are growing up Douglas fir trunks at the Seattle arboretum - and are otherwise interchangable, except for the differences in bract shapes.

The two evergreen hydrangea vines can be hurt by cold here, as can even the clematis. Because the couple is in a hurry and thought ivy would be fine the clematis may still be the best bet - if wire can be put on the stump. Should it freeze back some time the clematis would surely be quicker to recover than the hydrangeas, because it shoots out long growths of multiple feet in length all in one go - when it has full vigor.

thanks everyone, I'll pass this info on to them and see what happens.