There could be performance issues with buying and planting them this late. At the places I've shopped bulbs this year there was softening and shriveling appearing some time ago. Winter aconite and daffodils are said not to like being planted late, in fact some references advocate getting the Eranthis "in the green" instead of as a dried bulb.

Not sure what I think of drainage layers under bulbs, drainage layers in other situations (in containers less than big planter size and in planting holes beneath trees and shrubs) do not improve the draining of water from beneath the plants. In fact, coarser material placed in the bottom of planting holes dug out of fine-textured, heavy damp or wet soil turns these holes into sumps, resulting in plant death instead of better plant response.

If you plant bulbs (and other plants) in the right soil for those kinds in the first place you don't have to fiddle with special techniques.

I also wonder how long a small pocket of sand or gravel is going to remain unaffected by organic and mineral material moving into it from the top and sides over time.

I agree with all of the above. There is often a very good reason spring blooming bulbs go for fire sale prices at this time of year but if you don't mind risking a few $$, go for it. Typically they haven't been stored under proper conditions to maintain optimum viability. There is also the issue of an insufficient chill period necessary for proper vernalization if planted this late......meaning these bulbs may not produce any flowers this coming spring. Most spring blooming bulbs require anywhere from 12-20 weeks of appropriately cold temps in order to produce flowers and we have passed that window for the most part. Some might bloom, many won't and some may produce them late.

As to the gritty layer, rotting is unlikely to be a concern if the planting area offers good drainage, which virtually all bulbs require. If it doesn't have good drainage, I'm not sure the grit is going to help much :-)

Bulbs were stored on shelves and bins in the unheated garden center located in the Kent valley. They were sprouting through the mesh bags and when I've shopped there this season have needed my jacket(s) & gloves in the wooden frame, windows, and garage doors construction on concrete floor.

Wouldn't you think they received some cold treatment already? Wouldn't you think they'd resume normal blooming schedule for spring 2012 as long as they have good well-drained soil now?

I know my native soil has poor drainage, but my raised beds seem better and bulbs have done okay. I usually pot up to display where I'd like to see them in spring, but plant out in gardens in early summer after foliage has died down. I don't mind if they're going to bloom late as I have other bulbs already planted in ground & pots to bloom on schedule.

I didn't explain how Ann suggests to use the grit blended with mature compost, bone meal or whatever soil amendment you were going to use to prepare a planting bed. It's not just a hole dug with some grit thrown in.

Anyone else do use containers for spring bulbs?

>mature compost, bone meal or whatever soil amendmentYou might like to do some reading here.

Here is a link that might be useful: Horticultural Myths

I often plant bulbs in pots. The garden looks so different in fall than it does in the spring. I spot the pots around when in bloom, and plant when they've gone dormant. It's my experience that they will do better in deep pots rather than shallow pots. The latest I ever planted bulbs was February. They did fine.

Daffodils, narcissus and muscari do not need any chilling. They grow and bloom fine, naturalized, in frost-free climates.

But planting late can be a problem simply because the thing isn't in the ground long enough before bloom season comes along. Bulbs already in the ground are already growing and preparing for bloom season. The ones you just bought may not be ready in time. But what the heck! there's always next year. I have more than once planted bulbs at New Year's, and without issues.

A shelf in an unheated area probably got enough chilling even for the tulips. I wouldn't worry about chilling.

Daffodils, narcissus and muscari do not need any chilling.

Sorry to disagree but that's not precisely correct. Some species of narcissus (daffodils) do not require chilling - like the tazettas (paperwhites) - or minimal chilling, like the jonquillas or cyclemineus. These are the types most often recommended for southern or hot weather gardens. But the majority of the large cupped forms DO require a cold period in order to produce flowers. And chill period is relative :-) Generally a period of time at temperatures of no more than 40-45F is necessary. 12-15 weeks for narcissus; 8-15 weeks for muscari. Tulips take quite a bit more.

If blooming this coming season is NOT an issue, then by all means take advantage of sales and plant as soon as convenient, as long as bulbs are still firm, not shrunken or shriveled and no signs of mold.

Yes, you'd expect that the mild climate origin species and hybrids derived from them would have different parameters.

I say plant them and don't expect too much the first year. They may be stunted, but they will grow good leaves to feed the bulbs. IN 3 years you should have a glorious bloom. Many of them will divide and then the divisions will grow. You should get some nice bloom this year, good bloom next year and by 3 years the show should be fabulous!