Funny question. I was yarning when I read it. LOL

Nothing in my yard right now. I also bought my house and moved in, in late March last year. I dug up a HUGE amount of Bermuda grass. I have a HUGE amount to still dig out.

I want to built an outdoor shower for next summer. I am tired of cleaning up after myself... specially if the water used can go on plants instead of the sewer.

I just got back from a trip back home (Germany) and found a most unusual building. Check it out:

{{gwi:1080507}}

Trees, Mostly all I am doing is making my list of varieties I want to plant, obtaining any seed I don't already have and creating, in my mind, a plan for what plants will be planted in which area. I used to do elaborate plans on graph paper after we first moved here, but after a few years of doing that, I have a good enough idea in my head every year and really don't need to plan it on paper any more.

I am getting close to starting some seeds, but still a few days away. Around the 6th or 7th, I'll drag out the plastic storage boxes that hold my seed collection and will dig through the seeds and pull out the flower seeds I want to winter sow. Then I'll winter sow them. After that, around mid-January I'll start seeds of a few cold-hardy winter veggies indoors on the light shelf so that they'll be ready for transplanting in mid- to late-February depending on the weather.

I usually sow my tomato seeds around the first week of February. Last year, it was so abnormally warm that I sowed them a month early and it paid off as I was able to transplant them into adequately-warm soil and air temps during the first week in March. That's not normal these last few years though. What is more typical is that it is very cold in January (as it was last week and is this week) and I don't sow tomato or pepper seeds until early February for transplanting into the ground in late March through early April. For me, the hardest thing at this time of year is to stop myself from starting seeds too early. I have to force myself to wait. Had the weather not turned drastically colder the last 2 weeks, I'd be starting tomato seeds now. However, since it seems like maybe we are going to have a colder winter this year than last, I'll hold off and not start the tomato seeds early this year.

The problem with starting seeds of anything too early is that plants get big fast indoors under lights and with nice warm household temperatures and then you have to figure out how to keep them happy indoors when they're getting too big to sit on the light shelf and it still is too cold to put them outdoors.

For any cold-season crops that I start indoors from seed, how early I start them varies depending on how old I want the transplants to be when I put them in the ground. With broccoli and cabbage, I usually aim for having plants that are about 5 weeks old when I transplant them into the ground. I am pretty far south and can start transplanting winter veggies into the ground in February, but just because I can does not necessarily mean that I do. I wait until the soil and air temps are right for the plants no matter what the calendar says. After all, selecting planting dates from a calendar is a human thing, not a plant thing. The plants do not care what the calendar says because they're not going to grow until the soil temps and air temps are right for them, and even cold-tolerant plants will freeze if temperatures drop below what they can bear.

One thing you could be doing is checking the soil temperature in your garden soil. Check it at the same depth every day and write it down. You'll be able to see how quickly your soil temperatures rise, or not as the case may be. If you don't have a soil or compost thermometer, you can use a kitchen thermometer with a probe if you have one that records cold temperatures. Some of the newer kitchen thermometers only measure hot temperatures and not cold ones.

To figure out when to start your cool-season seeds, you can look at the OSU Garden Planning Guide and see what the range of planting dates is. Then count back from the planting date that is right for your part of the state and see what week you need to start seeds in order to have them the right size.

Even though I am very far south in OK (Texas sits to my west, south and east because I am in the part of Love County that sticks down into Texas), I do not necessarily plant as early as the OK Planning Guide says. For example, it might show for a specific cool-season plant that the recommended planting dates are from February 15 to March 10. I might not plant until February 22 or 28 if the weather is cold. There's nothing to be gained by going with the earliest date unless your part of the state is nice and warm. The further north/northwest you are, the better it is generally to plant in the mid to late portion of the early season planting dates. Oklahoma is notorious for having late bitter cold spells arrive after gardeners already are planting. The late cold spells are not as hard on potatoes and onions as they are on crops whose edible portion grows above the ground, but I've even had late freezes or late snow/sleet/ice storms freeze onions and potatoes back to the ground. That's why I try to avoid planting too early for the weather in any given year.

I always follow my gut instinct, and my gut instinct for January 2013 is telling me not to get in a big hurry to do any planting. Last year it was totally the opposite.

This is a great time of year to add any soil amendments to planting beds that they will need. It also is a great time to remove any winter weeds that have sprouted in the beds and then to put a mulch of chopped/shredded leaves, straw, etc. on the weed-free soil surface to prevent the sprouting of more winter weeds and to keep your beds clean and ready for planting time a month or two from now.

I've already ordered my onions for planting in February, and as soon as the seed potatoes arrive in local stores, which usually occurs around mid-January, I'll buy them and put them in the tornado shelter while I am holding them so that they won't get too warm indoors and begin to sprout prematurely. A few days before I intend to plant them, I'll chit them.

I still have about half the veggie garden to clean out because those beds had winter veggies in them until the temps dropped down into the low teens a couple of weeks ago and they died. I'm waiting for a nice warm day to arrive so I can clean out that part of the garden.

I still have lettuce, kale, mustard and chard growing in (a)two big tubs in the greenhouse, (b) the cattle trough planter outside the barn, and (c) an old wheelbarrow I roll into the garage at night for warmth, so I am not feeling any sort of intense pressure to get anything started since we still are harvesting and eating these crops. In a couple of weeks, I'll start new lettuce varieties for spring. The lettuce varieties I planted for fall were chosen for their cold-hardiness and they've worked out well. However, the ones I plant for spring will be choosen for their heat-tolerance and their resistance to bolting. That's why I will replace the lettuce even though it is growing just fine....because the same variety that tolerates January cold pretty well if I cover it up with blankets on cold nights is not the same variety, in general, that will be happy on hot spring days in May.

So, I guess mostly I'm doing a lot of waiting for the time to be right to sow seeds.

Dawn

I have not done anything to the gardens, but I have been planning to start onion seeds for 2 months, I just cant get around to the things I want to do. I dont have much room in the house and no place outside, so anything I do will be on the small scale.

Larry

we couldnt stand having a nice warm greenhouse and no food in it other than a few citrus fruits. So we started lettuce, spinach, broccoli, carrots, peas, some herbs and even a tomato or two a couple weeks ago. Even started a few zinnia to add some color, LOL. Ill start the main garden seeds around the first of February and the ones we have going now will just live in containers or tubs while its still chilly.
No onions yet, Ill get bunches at Southwood nursery when they show up. We dont eat a lot so I only get a bunch or two and really only use half of each.
Lowes sells this big square plastic tubs for mixing concrete in that work perfect for a lettuce bed. they are $6 for a 2'x2'x 6" deep, one about double the size is $10.

I would like to mention that The seed displays started showing up at our local Lowes on New years day

mike

I will look for the plastic tubs at Lowe's. I am looking up lettuce and tomato seeds, ordering and dreaming of spring. On warmer days I have been digging holes and getting out rocks in my tomato area. I will not plant seeds under lights in the house until at least Feb.

Mike, If I heated my greenhouse I'd have everything growing too.

I do have a handful of small tomato plants in the cattle trough with the lettuce plants. They are volunteers from the cascading-style cherry tomatoes I had in that trough back in the summer. They've survived because they're covered up on cold nights, but every time I uncover the lettuce plants, I'm surprised to see the little tomato plants still are alive.

The concrete mixing tubs from Lowe's are the ones I have in the greenhouse filled with lettuce. They are just perfect for that purpose, and for radishes and mini-carrots like Little Fingers or Paris Round too. I had the tubs outside in full sun in the fall and then moved them inside the greenhouse in about mid- to late-November.

A couple of the lettuce plants have bolted because I kept the greenhouse as warm as possible for the tomatoes and peppers in Nov and Dec by not opening the vents and doors until heat really had built up and at times that was too warm for the lettuce. After the tomatoes and peppers froze in December, I quit closing up the greenhouse in the afternoon to build up heat, so it stays cooler now and no more lettuce plants have bolted.

Helen, Our Lowe's have two sizes of concrete-mixing tubs. I use the smaller ones as cat litter boxes and the larger ones, with drainage holes drilled in the bottom, as containers for plants.

Dawn

What kind of soil do you put in the tubs of lettuce? I have thought of trying lettuce in plastic tubs in my basement but thought potting mix might not have nutrients like real soil.

Helen, it isn't recommended to add garden soil to containers....but I do it anyway, under these conditions. I add no more than 1/3 part of good garden soil to the pot. They are indoor pots that I water very gently so as not to pack the soil and I always dig some earthworms to add to the pots. If the pots are one-season pots with annual vegs and flowers, I dump half of the soil out when the plants are finished, loosen the rest and add back soil and planting mix. I just don't think bagged potting mixes have enough nutrients--from the experience of watching leaves turn yellow or purple. For permanent pots--I have 3 figs in pots to stay--I used only 1/4 part soil and mulch yearly with compost and shredded leaves. They also got earthworms. But obviously I can't dump out any soil. I would break roots if I tried.

What am I doing in the garden now? Nothing. Like Dawn I decided that this doesn't seem to be a good year to start seeds ultra early (Last Year started tomatoes in midJan and put them into the garden second week of March) This year will start peppers and tomatoes first of Feb, Snap Peas and broccoli mid-late Feb (two batches at least). The first peas will go into the garden in early Mar, the second mid march. Broccoli in first-late April. Tomatoes in early to mid-April, peppers early to mid May depending on weather. Everything depends on weather, but that's the plan at this time

Right now, DH and I are clearing the undergrowth out of a section of woods and cutting any that are big enough for firewood. Also have 3 large dead trees that will need to be cut this winter.

We're still eating lettuce and other greens from the greenhouse so I'm not too garden deprived.

Dawn
Those tubs are great arent they. pretty durable and inexpensive.

helen

I use just plain ole bagged potting soil. I figure its only for a season so it will be just fine.

If you wish to do long term plantings check out the container forum here for some great advice on container soils.

mike

Mike, Yes, I agree. I love these containers. Even when they are filled with soil-less mix and plants I still can lift them and move them around.

Dorothy, I would love to be able to put my figs in the ground because they seem so large already compared to their pots. I'm pretty sure if I do that, then they'll freeze back to the ground every year. We've already had several nights with lows around 9 to 12 degrees this winter, and I was glad the figs were in the garage in pots and not in the ground.

Helen, I usually use a bagged soil-less mix like Miracle Grow or Fertilome for filling pots when I am in a hurry. For quite a few years, I used to make up my version of the Al's 5-1-1 mix that is widely discussed at the Container Forum here at GW, but the last couple of years I've been too time-challenged. Normally, when I use a bagged soil-less potting mix I enhance it by adding mushroom compost or Black Kow cow manure. Black Kow is the only purchased cow manure I use because it is 100% cow manure whereas the law allows composted manures to be labeled as cow manure as long as they are only 10% manure. I don't want to buy some brand that is/may be 90% cheap filler, which often is black clay. I have plenty of clay and don't need more. I also will add organic fertilizer like Espoma's different products (Garden-tone, Tomato-Tone, etc.) as needed, and sometimes worm castings. I'd rather always make my soil-less mix from scratch, but just cannot find the time. Mixing it up isn't the issue---assembling all the ingredients to make it can be pretty time-consuming, especially if you live way out in the middle of nowhere and stores that have all the ingredients for the 5-1-1 mix may be 40 or 60 or 80 miles away.

Dawn

I'm going to put in brick paths and add some new raised beds this year. I'd like my garden to be more of the potager style. I'm working on the plan right now and hopefully soon it will be nice enough to start working on it. I have a lot of work to do.

Leslie

Dawn, I've had a fig in the ground for over 25 years and I get a heavy crop of figs about once in 5-6 years. So that's why I potted my new figs. Hope they can produce in 18 gal pots.

Dorothy, Yeah, that's why mine are in pots. In Fort Worth they only froze back about once every 10 years, but up here we get a lot colder. Maybe I'll plant some in the ground and keep a couple in pot too. When I was a kid our neighbors had a huge fig tree planted right beside the southeast corner of their house and that thing bore fruit like mad.

Our figs produced fruit in pots that are roughly 18-20 gallon size this past summer, and it was their second summer. I planted them from 1-gallon pots into the big pots in the spring of 2011. Each tree produced between 15 and 20 figs this year. They grew really fast which is why I have some concern about keeping them in pots. I guess I'll do it anyway though.

Your potager plan sounds cute. My Peter Rabbit Garden is a potager that we put in several years ago for the amusement of a young child. I have had fun with it, but I need to redo some of it. I didn't do a very good job of maintaining it in last year's weather because it was just too hot to care if weeds and grass invaded it. Once they invade from the adjacent pasture, here comes the snakes....so I just ignored it once it was grassy, except I crept in there to harvest tomatoes from its 4 plants every now and then. I need to redo the fencing---it needs repainting, and I want to rearrange the raised beds a little. So far we've only had a mulch path in it because I still don't have the layout just the way I want it. I'd like to put in a brick path one of these days if I ever decide the layout is going to stay the way it is.

At Lowe's I usually get the 20 gallon round tubs for $6. They may go up in price this year, like it seems everything else has. I'll have to check out the concrete mixing tubs that may have more surface areas, for growing some carrots and lettuce. I just really don't want to spend as much $ on potting soil this year, though. Last year, I spent about $200 on soil, which, IMHO, is wayyyyyy too much. So, I'll be reusing soil from last year, adding some compost in the form of chicken manure, to beef it up. There is a definite advantage to growing in the ground. It's much more cost effective in terms of adding soil amendments instead of purchasing potting soil.

I'm rather lackadaisical about planting seeds on time. Probably my lifestyle is somewhat prohibitive, since I've been caring for my daughter and GDs pretty much full time. I play "catch up" a lot, but I can't wait to use the fluorescent light stand. I do want to start some things early, but they don't include veggies so much, but flowering annuals, like Coleus, some herbs, things that take awhile to grow to planting size. I direct sow a lot of things like Zinnias, Cosmos, Morning Glories, for instance. I think I'll try some Dragon Wing Begonias, too. Some of the seed places have gone up so much in price for a packet of seed that it's ridiculous. Six dollars a packet is just extraordinarily high to me.

I plan to grow a few tomatos - 6 or 7 plants, some Baby Bok Choy, maybe carrots and lettuce. Do you guys let any of your veggies reseed, like lettuce and carrots. I know you don't set aside enough space to leave them all in the ground until they bolt, but I was thinking of leaving a few plants in the ground to reseed for the fall. Is that possible?

I'm also going to do some tropicals from seed to save having to order them online. I have been using Almost Eden since Bustani's stopped doing mail order. These probably will be started early, too.

I still have things to do to get ready for seed sowing, like clean up containers and flats, buy seed starting mix, labels, and maybe some fertilizer (I may have some Miracle Gro fertilizer from last year I can still use, at 1/4 strength), put together light stand, and then I will be good to go. Sounds like a lot.......

Susan

A Tip from OkieDawn, Starting March first each morning before work i'll poke my meat probe in the garden soil, read, and record a temperature. In the mean time:
i'm going to buy fiber row cover from American Plant Products; the heaviest i can buy. Make my tomato cages a little smaller diameter. Wrap my tomato cages so they are ready to go. I'm going to make some tomato cages like that in "The Texas Tomato Lover's Handbook" and try them this year. I got a funny feeling i may find other uses for my concrete wire tomato cages after i try the book's cages. I'm going to wait on my drip irrigation purchase until it gets closer. When three days of 55 to 60 degree soil temperatures gets here look out. i'm not making the late planting mistake this year.

Susan, The high cost of soil-less potting mixes is a huge issue. I have 40 or so molasses tubs that Fred gave me next year and I want to fill them and plant them this spring. It is unlikely I'll fill them all at once...or maybe not even all this year. Eventually I'll get them filled. I always fill them about halfway with wood chips first and then put the soil-less mix on top. Over the years, the wood chips decompose and mix with the wood and I even do think that the wood chips help hold moisture and that means I can water less often. Still, filling up a lot of containers is costly. I may try hugelkultur in pots this year to help me fill up the pots with water-retentive material. In the past, I've mostly used hugelkultur to restore badly eroded areas on our property here, although I did use it to build a large ornamental bed in Fort Worth. Since our property is a creek hollow with higher ground on three sides, it was badly eroded when we bought it and I work each year on restoring a couple of eroded areas. I like hugelkultur but it is hard for me to do it here. Even as I'm building a hugelkultur pile, the wild things are moving in...and you know we have some unpleasant wild things here.

I agree that seed costs at some companies are off the charts. It is crazy to see seed packets, mostly of new releases, priced at $6.95 or even higher. There's only a couple of things I've ever wanted to grow badly enough that I'd spend that kind of money for a packet of seeds. I love Burpee's catalog and could look at it forever, but they are pricing their stuff so high that for the most I don't buy it any more. I used to buy tons and tons of stuff from them 10 or 15 years ago, but in recent years I haven't bought much. Other retailers have stuff that is just as good at more reasonable prices, so about all I buy from Burpee is varieties exclusive to them. I also try hard not to fall for the ad copy in the catalog for all the new stuff. It pays to wait a year and see how those new varieties did for folks in our climate that first year. That's kept me from buying a lot of their stuff.

I try to plant seeds on time, but sometimes I just try to do too much at one time and get overwhelmed with it all. That's trouble for anything I haven't sown yet. It is the second round of seeds that tends to be planted late because I'm preoccupied by caring for the first round of seedlings.

This year my veggie list is huge and long, but my flower and herb lists (still in process) are lengthy too. I haven't had all the flowers I've wanted in recent years because I cut back on planting a lot of them due to the drought. Well, I'm tired of cutting back and intend to have oodles and oodles of flowers this year.

Wait until you see my flower and ornamental plant list....you and I are going to grow some of the same things. I'm growing angel-wing begonias and coleus too as well as a lot of herbs, including some I've never or rarely grown from seed. I've been collecting seeds for a Chocolate Garden for three years now, and this is the year I'm going to plant them. Finally. It had better rain this spring so that they'll grow.

You can try letting the lettuce and carrots reseed. I don't. I'd like to with the lettuce, but since I grow so many succession plantings, I don't like to leave an area with lettuce plants reseeding....I'd rather have something growing there that will produce in the summer months. I've toyed with the idea of planting a bunch of lettuce seed somewhere outside the fenced garden and letting it go to seed for the birds. I might try that under the pecan tree, although the chickens are likely to find the lettuce and eat it all before it can go to seed. With carrots, I leave 15-20 every year and I do the same with onions, and both of them, if they don't rot over the course of a wet winter, will bloom in the spring. Last year, it was so hot that some of the carrots I left must have gone dormant long enough to think fall was their second year because some of them bloomed in fall. The rest didn't, though, so I hope they'll bloom in late winter or early spring. Whether anything comes up from their self-sow seed remains to be seen because I mulch so heavily that the seeds might not ever find soil in which to sprout. I've left onions and carrots to bloom for years and I let them stay there until they've made seed, but something must eat the seeds because I don't get self-sown seedlings from them. I do wish lettuce and carrots would sprout from self-sown seed as easily as chives and chamomile do.

Dawn

I will probably start a few Irish potatoes from seed (true potato seed, not tubers). I have a good many to trial, which I grew from seed in 2012. But I would like to do one more selection for this year.

Also, I need to start my vitex casta and Korean evodia seeds. I truly want to move on finding better nectar producers for July and August.

We are moving our main garden over 16' to the South. Jerreth and I set up the southern perimeter around Christmas. But that means that I have approximately 100 X 16' of Bermuda pasture ground to work up before spring planting. As we clean our animal pens I'm piling the manure/barn scrapings about 2' high in this new garden area. Whatever I can cover this way, will serve for squash, this year and will be nice and soft, easily worked, by late summer.

Within a month I will start my sweet potato starts, at least the most important ones. This is because our wood stove will still be going, and it makes them sprout well. If it weren't for that, I'd wait until March to start them. But March is a chilly month in our house.

That's about it. Presently I'm busy with firewood and animals (butchering and cleaning pens).

George
Tahlequah, OK

Wow I wish I had 2' of barn stuff to put on my garden.

Well, it's hard earned, and, so far, it only covers about 16 X 10'. Still, we've observed that when we pile manure and barn scrapings at least 2' high, when they rot down, the Bermuda is relatively easy to weed out.

George

Taking the "what are you doing right now" question down a bit different path...
George, what are you doing, how are you (and Jerreth) doing, lo these few "interesting" years?
I can tell your garden certainly keeps you busy :)

Sharon

Nate,

I meant to say earlier that I think you sound really well-organized and well-prepared. I hope that you have a better tomato year this year.

Dawn

Hey Sharon,

Thank you for asking. Well, I continue working custodial at Northeastern State University. My supervisor did a really good thing, trying to get me to do a couple months in every area that our service works. Eventually, then, I was placed in the College of Optometry. I LOVE the College of Optometry. The people here are so great to work with! Anyway, this job gets me off work and home by 3 PM, most days, which allows me to work the garden, farm, firewood or bees, until dark. Actually, at this time of the year, I do chores by headlamp, both morning and evening.

Recently I was named a board member of the Cherokee County Food Policy Council. This group tackles a lot broader issues than my real interest. But I do appreciate their work. My area, in this group, is to work at promoting more self sufficiency, in the area of food, for our community. February 2, I'm doing a seminar on seed saving, at NSU, which will be open to the community. This winter I've actually had a good many requests from people wanting to learn how to do their own butchering.

My bees have only managed to "hang in there" for the last three years. The drought has been very bad for honey production.

On top of this, I'm still pastoring, albeit in a very different mode than before. Now, I'm ministering in a house church. The primary goal of that ministry is to disciple others in Bible study and in their walk with the Lord. We "don't do money" in our group. There is no collection and everyone is free to give as they see fit. It just doesn't go through our group.

Jerreth, my wife, is teaching middle school in Muskogee. This is a tremendous challenge, as many of her students are children of gang members and drug users. They are very needy, very resistant learners. I believe Jerreth is winning the hearts of a good many of her students. Yet she works long hours and is quite stretched.

So, that's what we're doing right now ;)
One of my favorite quotes, is from Willy Wonka: "So much time, so little to do... Stop!!! Reverse that! So much to do, so little time!"

George

I see a lot of mention of containers; have any of you checked with your local nurseryman? The local nursery that I hang around sells used growing containers of all sizes at a reasonable price. The composition of these containers is different from the multi-use tubs from Lowes, etc and they do not break down in sun light. Also, check with local ranchers. You may pick up empty cattle supplement tubs for a little bit of nothing or just for picking them up. These will hold about 25 � 30 gallons

What am I doing? Playing in the greenhouses; planted lettuce, spinach and basil this morning and picked 2 kinds of lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, green onions and tomatoes for our lunch salad. It is tough having the run of a nursery!!

George,
Hey I just realized that we worked together at the college of Optometry. They really do have some good people than and you are for sure one of them. I really wish I could make it to your seminar on seed saving thats something im really getting interested in, but don't know anything about. Do you have a powerpoint or notes or something you could post for us? If so I would really appreciate it.

Josh

Josh! Hey! Welcome to the Oklahoma Gardening forum!!
I'm working on my notes and may do some graphics. For sure, I'll get you a set.

Here's what I have on saving tomato seed:

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/63178561/saving%20Your%20Own%20Tomato%20Seed.pdf

I want to deal with more than just "how to." Will address some of the "whys" and some of the different philosophies behind seed saving. Also, when one does a good deal of seed saving, it tends to change how one organizes their plantings. I'll be addressing that.

George

Most of my containers are molasses feed tubs, and I have grown in them for over a decade now. I grew in smaller containers too when I had fewer molasses feed tubs, but now that I have so many of them, I use the smaller containers less often. I think I have roughly 45-50 of the molasses feed tubs, and then I have a few large tree containers about the same size that Mitch brought to one of the Spring Flings in OKC 4 or 5 years ago.

I also grow something every year in a 4' round stock tank that is so old the bottom has rotted out long ago....and in new cattle feed troughs on legs because that puts the lettuce and other salad greens too high for the rabbits and other small varmint to reach them.

Other folks here also grow in molasses feed tubs. Melissa posted a photo last fall of her greenhouse filled with black tubs of all kinds of stuff.

I think that growing in large containers with a drip irrigation system on a timer is just about as carefree and easy as you can make gardening here. The hardest part is the expense of filling up a lot of containers at one time.

What am I doing now? lol Watching it rain and after a lot of months of watching it not rain, I am not complaining. I moved the lemon and orange tree containers out from the sunporch to the outdoors so the trees can enjoy the rain. I harvested lettuce, kale, Swiss chard and mustard to feed the chickens, brought in chicken eggs, etc. before it started raining.

I am close to doing some winter sowing...probably in the next 4 or 5 days.

Today I'm working on my grow list of flowers, herbs, and misc. stuff for 2013. After I make a list of what I want to grow, I'll double-check it against the seeds in my seed box to make sure I have everything. If there's something I need, I'll order it today. I think I have most everything, but need to check and make sure.

We've had a lot of rain in the last month so the ground is too wet to work, but I'm eager to get out and play in the soil as soon as it dries up some more. The ground has been so dry for so long that I really don't even mind the mud, except when I'm mopping up muddy paw prints and footprints off the floor.

George, please post the time and place for that seedsaving seminar. If it's in the afternoon, we can come and I would like to.

Dorothy, I know it will be in the Redbud Room, in the University Center (UC). But I will have to let you know the time. The Current, should carry information. But I have not picked up a copy.

George

I will correct this, if I'm wrong. But it looks like I will doing my part of the home gardening education day (That's the seed saving seminar) at Northeastern State University, in the University Center (UC) Redbud Room at 10:45 AM till noon. I'll post a dedicated thread for this, and list the other topics and times, when able.

Dorothy, how's Glenn doing?

George