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Oklahoma flowers

Posted by sammy OK/7A (My Page) on
Wed, Feb 2, 11 at 15:02

What are some flowers that are native Oklahoma?
My garden is basically a rose garden, but roses need other flowers.

I use Homestead Purple verbenas, purple salvia, hibiscus, and some lilies. What could I grow that would be rather unique to Oklahoma?

Sammy


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Here is a link to the Oklahoma Native Plant Society. They have great information.

http://www.usao.edu/~onps/

My personal favorites include Rudbeckia (Black-eyed Susan), Coreopsis, Gaillardia (State Wildflower), Maximillian's Sunflower, Echinacea (coneflower), verbena, and Passionflower


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Hi, Sammy! I do as much native plant gardening as I can, so I'll list some of those I grow.

Liatris spicata - grass/liriope-like foliage; blooms in dense lavendar spikes mid-summer; grows from corm; 2-3' tall; sun to part-shde

Spigelia marilandica - part-shade to sun; 12-18" tall; blooms are tubular red with yellow interior - gorgeous!

Echinacea purpurea (Coneflower) - part-shade to sun; 3' tall with large pink daisy-like flowers - long bloom season from early summer on, if deadheaded; many cultivars are available now, too, and many other native species including E. pallida, E. tennesseensis, E. paradoxa (yellow blooms).

Baptisia australis var. minor (Indigo Bush) - 2-3' tall, blue-green foliage, blue panicle blooms in spring very pretty. Host for the lovely little Wild Indigo Duskywing butterfly, the caterpillar of which folds itself inside the leaves during the day and feeds at night, very cute

Amorpha fruticosa or canescens (smaller than fruticosa), pea like foliage (it is a legume) with purple flower spikes; 3' tall for canescens taller for fruticosa; host plant for Silver-spotted Skipper

Asclepias incarnata (Swamp milkweed); full sun; 3' tall; pink flowers; host plant for Monarch butterfly

Lobelia cardinalis (Cardinal Flower); sun to part-shade; 2-4' tall; red flowers beloved by hummingbirds

Monarda fistulosa (Bee Balm); sun to part shade; 2-4' tall; lavendar pink blooms

Vernonia fasculata (Ironweed); sun; 3-4'; reddish purple blooms

Zizia aptera (Heartleaf Alexanders); sun to part shade; 1-2' tall; yellow umbels of flowers like dill and fennel; the Black Swallowtail butterfly (our state butterfly) caterpillars like to munch on this one

Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly weed); sun; 2-3' tall; needs good drainage; orange flowers; attractive to butterflies

Aster (name is now Symphyotrichum) oblongifolius; sun; 3' but 5-6' wide; lavendar flowers with yellow ray

Cephalanthus occidentalis (Button Bush); gets tall up to 8'; white button-like flowers hence the name; loved by beneficials and butterflies

Phlox divaricata - woodland plant with blue flowers; 1' tall

Arisaema triphyllum (Jack-in-the-Pulpit); woodland plant with unusual flower

Verbesina enceliodes (Cowpen Daisy); yellow flowers; silvery green foliage; butterflies

Eupatorium maculatum 'Little Joe' (Joe Pye Weed); 5' tall; sun; large pink flower heads

Malvaviscus arborea drummondii (Turk's Cap); red hibicus-like flowers that are closed, but beloved by hummingbirds; beautiful

Berlandiera lyrata (Chocolate Daisy); pretty little plant with silvery green foliage and yellow flowers with burgandy center; smells like chocolate in early morning or evening; 2' tall; sun

Vines:

Passiflora incarnata; lavendar flowers; host plant for Gulf Fritillary butterfly

Aristolochia macrophylla (large leaves) and tomentosa (smaller); flowers look like meerschaum pipes; host plant for Pipevine Swallowtail butterflies

Others I have grown:

Gaillardia pulchella - annual that will reseed - beautiful red-orange/yellow flowers with silvery foliage; 1' tall

Hope this helps some.

Susan


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Hey susanlynne48-

Can u talk a little more about your experience growing Amorpha Canescens 'lead plant'

You (along with many others) have inspired me to grow more things for the butterflies/bees. Was thinking of doing the milk jug/ hunk o' seedlings method since it needs cold stratification. I've never tried WS/jug method but Im going for it with some poppies. Or should I direct seed? I dont have an indoor growing set-up but will hopefully next year.
Do you grow yours in full sun? "full sun" doesnt always mean full sun here :)

Thank you for posting I learn so much from you and everyone else. I dont post a lot because I can usually find what I need by using the search function (when it works) and work on a computer all day and dont wanna get back on when I get home.

Sammy sorry I hijacked your thread.


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Very nice thread!

tigerdawn, I have planted black-eyed Susan, Gaillardia pink coneflower and Passionflower last spring. They are awesome and very hardy, bloomed from summer to fall. I definitely try Coreopsis, Maximillian's Sunflower, Verbena this time.

Susan, thanks for awesome list! I was looking for drought hardy native flowers but do well in red clay soil with little care and watering? I will look for more detail on the list you posted.

By the way, are there any fragrant flowers/plants in the list? Couple of friends from OKC have gifted us lavenders and geraniums for the Christmas. I am looking for more fragrant flowers, herbs and vines.

Thank you -Chandra


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Brake4turtles - love that name BTW - this will be the 2nd year for mine. I have seen it grown and I think it is gorgeous in bloom. It is a legume, so has nitrogen fixing properties. I've attached info from Illinois Wildflowers (they have extensive info in their wildflower database) for you to look at. I think the blooms are so unusual. It is a larval host plant for the Dogface Sulphur butterfly. If you live in an area with deer and rabbits, however, the info reports that they love this plant. I would imagine they love most legumes.

Chandra, are you asking for fragrant natives or just fragrant plants in general?

The one I have on my list that is fragrant is Berlandieri lyrata - Chocolate Daisy. It is fragrant in early morning and evening hours. The flowers are small, but if you look at them closely, they are so pretty with the yellow rays and the burgandy centers. Very attractive gray-green, lacy foliage, too.

Susan

Here is a link that might be useful: Amorpha canescens (Lead Plant)


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Susan, Fragrant natives would fine if not any fragrant plant in general which thrive in our soil and hot weather will work. preferably perennials.


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

This past summer I planted a variety of Gaillardia called Gallo Peach that I bought at Lowe's, and it was one of the best plants in my garden. It flowered profusely even through that awful heat of last summer, and was still flowering after some of the first light frosts. The flowers are bright yellow with a darker orange-gold near the center. I'll post a link to them.

Suzie

Here is a link that might be useful: Gaillardia Gallo Peach


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

I bought many flowers seeds for 20 cents from WalMart;

I don't know many are native and suites best in Oklahoma's dry and hot weather???


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

I have pretty good luck with all of those except: Delphs (larkspur is better suited for Oklahoma, and somewhat similar), Lupine (I pretend Baptisia is similar)

Nasturniums don't do well for me either...but I think that's me, not everyone else.

I hear California poppies do well for some. I have grown them somewhat successfully, but they poop out so soon in my yard it wasn't worth it.

Lisa


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Ditto what Lisa said.


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Forget me nots are difficult here, too, I think. Plant your poppies now, now, now. Right on top of the snow!

Lisa's right. I had mentioned Lupines to Diane because she is now in a zone (northern, zone 5) where these are well suited. Both Delphs and Lupines are well suited to Northern climates and will swelter in our heat. I wish we could grow them because they're gorgeous!

Good analogy, Lisa - you let your Baptisias fill in for the Lupines! The Baptisia flowers are so gorgeous! Mine were stunning last year and such a true blue in a world with few blue flowers. Now if we could just grow Meconopsis (Blue Himalayan Poppy). Sigh.....

I had two nicely prepared responses on fragrant flowers for you, Chandra, and computer problems today caused me to lose both, so I'll try to see what I can remember.

There are a few native shrubs that are fragrant:

Ribes odoratum (Clove currant; edible currant berries); blooms early spring, yellow flowers; 5-6' tall

Ceanothus american (New Jersey Tea); very fragrant white blooms; butterflies love it; 1-3' tall

Itea virginica (Virginia Sweetspire); white bottlebrush blooms in late spring; 3-4' tall; suckers; newer hybrids like Henry's Garnet (red foliage in fall) and Little Henry are slower to sucker

Non-Native Shrubs:

Buddleia (Butterfly Bush); lots of colors with lilac-like blooms, in blue, lavendar, purple, pink, white, yellow, and even a bi-color. Dwarfs get 1-3' high; others can get between 6 and 10' tall; wonderful fragrance on lots of them and butterflies, bees, hummingbirds, love, love, love it

Lilacs - be sure to get one for the South, like the Persians; 'Miss Kim' is a good one

Native Perennials:

Datura inoxia (Angel's Trumpets); large white trumpet shaped flowers that point upwards; blooms in evening until about mid morning next day; bees and humminbird moths love this; other Daturas may not be hardy in the ground

Non-Native Perennials:

Dianthus
Tall Summer Phlox
Peonies
Some Hosta flowers are fragrant

Herbs:

Rosemary - 'Arp' or other cold hardy varieties
Lavendar - I grew Lavendula x intermedia 'Provence' and it was very fragrant - one of those "touch it as you walk by to get the full, intense fragrance".
Thyme
Oregano
Basils - come in many "flavors" like lemon, Cinnamon, etc.
Mints - grow on pots because they ARE invasive - many flavors, too
Dill
Fennel

**Most herbs have the kind of fragrance that you brush against or run your hands over as you stroll thru the garden, in order to get the scent wafting up and around you

Bulbs, Tubers, Corms:

Oriental Lily 'Casa Blanca' - white flowers; 5' tall; one of THE most fragrant oriental lilies and not difficult to grow in Oklahoma like some. The flowers get HUGE as the bulbs mature. Buy 18-22 cm. bulbs initially to get off to good start. Stargazers are another oriental lily that is good in Oklahoma and very fragrant; blooms are a deep pink with white

Lilium formosanum - white trumpet shape blooms; fragrant blooms

Tuberoses - white flowers, very fragrant

Lily-of-the-Valley

Hyacinths

Daffodils

Iris - I love the old ones that smell like Root Beer

Daylilies - some are fragrant and now some are reblooming

Vines:

Jasminum x stephanense; perennial, hardy to zone 7; clusters of pale pink flowers in spring; sweetly scented; I love mine

Ipomeae alba - annual; large white trumpets that bloom in evening to morning - great for night flying sphinx moths

Honeysuckles, some

Annuals:

Heliotrope
4 o'clocks (bloom late afternoon to morning; great for sphinx moths); reseeds
Alyssum
Petunias - some are fragrant, but you really need to do the "sniff" test

This is at least a start for you.

Susan


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Another great way to find out if a plant is native to Oklahoma is to simply google the latin name and the USDA Plants Profile page should pop up. On that page is a map telling you which states and even counties that the plant is native to.
-Matt


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Susan,
Thank you very much. Those are pretty nice suggestions for me. Now I have given this assignment to Priya to look for all those online and make final list to order seeds or plants.

Priya like Tuberoses very much, they are very very fragrant. Do you know sources here in OK, I would like to buy 10-20 plants for her as a Valentine Gift... even though she has already many plants in the list. Last year I build her a pretty nice rose garden for Valentine. May be Tuberose bed this time!

I have Lavandula intermedia 'Provence' recived as gift from a frend, she said she bought those plants from www.highcountrygardens.com

Thank you -Chandra


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

I found once source for Tuberoses; "www.tntuberoses.com"


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Thanks susan for the lead plant info!
Ready for us to thaw out and get this season going


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Someone on the forum here grows Tuberoses, but I don't recall whom.

While you can probably find them at Lowe's or HD in the bags, I would get them from a reputable bulb source. Two that are really good - I have experience with Brent & Becky's only - are B&B and McClure & Zimmerman. You can request catalogs from both, too. I was very happy with the plants I ordered from B&Bs, and you will get larger bulbs to begin with, rather than the smaller ones that come in the plastic packaging at the big box stores. Also, some retailers will give you the option of express mailing bulbs or plants if you want them sooner, and if you want to pay for it. B&Bs does have Express Mail available.

Secondly, I have always heard that the single blooming Mexican Tuberoses are the most fragrant, rather than the double bloomers. That said, you could grow both together for the intense fragrance of the single blooms and the aesthetics of the doubles. If you grow them in a large clay pot, you can bring them in over the winter and store in a cool room, garage, etc. Or, you can plant them in your garden and cross your fingers. I had mine overwinter here for several years, but the last 2 years they disappeared - probably due to the colder winter temps we've experienced.

Third, I don't think, but you could ask them, that they will mail them until time to plant them outdoors, which is around April 15th here in Oklahoma City area. You could call or email them and check this out. If you order before March 1st, you will get a 10% discount, too. And, no, I don't work for Brent & Becky's. Just passing along the info I got from their website.

Tuberoses bloom late for me - they love, love, love heat! But, boy are they gorgeous. They have strap-like foliage, similar to Iris, but a brighter green to me.

Another tropical I grew last year was Night Blooming Jessamine (Cestrum nocturnum). It blooms in evening to early morning, and is very fragrant.

Hope this helps, and I'm giving you a link to B&Bs.

B4T - I really do wish spring would hurry up and get here. But then we'd probably have a short spring followed by a long, hot summer like last year's, so I have to be careful what I wish for.

The USDA site is great for info on native plants, I agree. There photos are helpful for ID'ing plants in the field, but most natives are much more attractive when grown in the home garden. I also use their links to websites that have more descriptive info on the plants, too, like CalPhotos, NPIN, etc.

Susan

Here is a link that might be useful: Brent & Becky's Bulbs


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Susan, thank you for more info. I will check B&B. By the way, I have ordered 20 bulbs from www.tntuberoses.com as a one of the gift to Priya on Valentine's day. The owner of the farm Sherry Dyer promised to send them before Feb 14. Probably we will plant them in large pot and take them out after April.

I was reading state by state gardening news letter, they mentioned perennial of the year 2011 "Arkansas Bluestar" which is also native Oklahoma....

Here is a link that might be useful: Perennial Plant of the Year- Arkansas Bluestar


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Chandra, we discussed this on a thread back in mid-December, so I'll attach the thread for you if you wanna take a look at it.

I was going to mention Arkansas Blue Star, but since there was some mention that it didn't do as well as the other Amsonias - has a tendency to sprawl - I decided not to. I have grown A. tabernaemontana (a mouthful) and it was gorgeous. There are very few flowers with this steel blue color, and Sandy's photo is gorgeous. She grows a lot of native plants and is a butterflier like I am. Only she's been doing it for 30+ years, and is just really knowledgeable about natives and a fantastic gardener. Maryl has been around the forums for a very long time also and is a very experienced gardener as well.

Sandy and I spoke today about maybe driving up to Norman for the Farmer's Market on April 2nd, and it would be nice if we could all meet there and chat for awhile! When it gets closer to that date, I'll try to get in contact with you and see about a time to meet. Sound like a possibility?

Susan

Here is a link that might be useful: Amsonia hubrichtii


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Susan, thank you for more info on Arkansas Bluestar.
What is your experience in growing flowering plants (mentioned above)... is it worth to grow plants from seeds at home or better to buy plants from market?

April2 plan sounds good to me, we will be there for sure!

-Chandra


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Perennials grown from seed usually take 2 years from sowing the seeds until they reach flowering size. There are exceptions, of course. I grow a lot of perennials by wintersowing. If purchased as a plant, you will get a bit of a head start and most will flower the same year, returning each subsequent year bigger and more floriferous. Usually. There is always that exception to the rule, depending on a lot of different factors. The thing to remember with perennials is that "the first year they sleep, the second year they creep, and the third year they leap".

Annuals complete their cycle within a season, growing, flowering, setting seed. That is their life cycle. Some will reseed like Cosmos, Cleome, Zinnias (some), Salvia, Basil, Tithonias (Mexican Sunflowers). Seeds may be the only way to find a lot of these kinds of plants. And, some are so easy to grow from seed that the nurseries don't bother with them. I love Cleomes, but I have only seen them offered as seedlings once and that was at Warren Nursery in MWC many years ago. The owner passed away and the family sold the nursery to O'Higgins. Seeds are easy, but Cleome in particular needs a bit of stratification, and I just sow them directly - in fact, I did it yesterday.

Perennial shrubs and trees from seed take a good long time to reach maturity when grown from seed. For example, it can take anywhere from a few years to several years for a tree to grow to a good size from seed depending on the variety of tree; some are slower growing than others. But, it is also an inexpensive way to do it, and it gives a lot of people a sense of accomplishment to produce a mature tree or shrub from seed. I don't have a lot of patience to wait that long, and I'm already an old lady with maybe not that many years to watch one grow from seed. I don't wanna wait 5-10 years, so I usually order or purchase them.

With vines, of the perennials, some of these also grow faster than others. I grew a peach flowered trumpet vine from seed, and it is now probably 30-40' long, but it took it a couple years to flower. Still, pretty fast for a perennial vine IMHO. I doubt that I could expect that kind of growth out of a Climbing Hydrangea, for example, since they are notoriously slow growing. Annual vines like morning glories, Cypress vine, Cardinal Climber, Black Eyed Susan, etc., that experience rapid growth, completing their growth cycle in one year, grow very quickly. A lot of annual vines need very warm soil to really take off, though, so give them a little time.

Plants with tuberous/rhizomatous/corm/bulbous roots like the Spigelia marilandica, Liatris, and Arisaema, take a substantial amount of time from seed to flowering because they first have to produce that thickened root. I recommend purchasing the plant already growing in a container, or at least the tubers/bulbs/corms/rhizomes. But, people do grow them from seed and are willing to nurture them along and wait for that bulb to grow and the first flower to appear. Hybridizers do this with the aim of creating new hybrids with improved traits, usually thru careful hand pollination, bagging, etc. So it is really an intense, lengthy process IMO that most gardeners don't want to deal with.

Same thing with all the other non-native bulbs/tubers/corms/rhizomes as in Iris, Begonias, Cannas, Gingers, and others. Best to buy them. As I mentioned, growing them from seed would get into a whole nuther area of breeding and hybridizing, and seeds usually produce plants that don't resemble the parent plants and aren't worthy of growing out. Hybridizing is a very selective process and one that can take years and years to produce a plant deserving recognition and commercial distribution. Cheaper to buy what you want to begin with.

It is sometimes hard to find native bulbs locally. I ordered my Spigelia or Indian Pink from a native plant nursery. But, you can purchase Liatris corms in one of those green bags from Lowe's - it is one of the few that are so tough that "abusive" handling and storage is likely to be tolerated. Thank goodness something will! Very inexpensive and flowers are very nice. I got one of my Arisaemas in a trade, and the other 2 I ordered. I have not seen any locally, but I haven't looked around a lot in the past few years. Very unusual plant, and altho they are native (triphyllum is anyway), they aren't widely cultivated. The flower is a spathe like the Peace Lily hence the name. They can get quite large over time and spread, but not invasive at all. It is unique and that's why I like it. They are pollinated by flies.

I wintersow my perennials generally because 1) I couldn't afford to buy them all as plants versus the price of a seed packet; 2) they are difficult to find locally as plants. My milkweeds, or Asclepias species, are an example. Most are perennials, but a couple are annuals, and the annuals are easily grown from seed (well, they're actually perennials that perform as annuals in our climate), and you can save seed to grow for the next year.

The pipevine that I mention, Aristolochia macrophylla or durior, would be best purchased as a plant. It will not be found locally, but can be found at native plant sources online, such as Sunlight Gardens, Brushwood Nursery, and Wild Things - the one that will be at the Farmer's Market on 4/2 - also has them, but would be best to contact Marilyn in advance and tell her you want one so she can bring with her just in case. Aristolochia tomentosa is similar, also native to Oklahoma, with smaller leaves. Aristolochias, or pipevines, are the only larval host plant for the beautiful Pipevine Swallowtail butterfly. The caterpillars are very pretty, black with orange or red spines that are soft to the touch - aren't sharp and don't sting. Always beware of caterpillars you find in the garden and cannot ID because there are many that are "stinging" caterpillars and can deliver a painful punch!

If you have a particular interest in any of the natives mentioned in the first reply or this reply, let me know and I will try to guide you to the best place to find them, whether locally or online. I have found a great number of my butterfly plants/natives at Precure Nursery, and I think there is one in either South OKC or Moore. Their plants are very reasonably priced, too.

Susan


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Susan, some of the time I am taking notes, but other times, I think I need to start printing. I am really impressed with your knowledge. You are so well informed and helpful.

Sammy


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Awwww, shucks! There's a lot of folks here that know as much if not more than me. Their interests just take them in other directions. But appreciate the compliment.

Susan


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Wow! Susan, Thanks a million for very informative postings on Oklahoma flowers. I will plant whatever seeds I bought, and rest buy plants from nurseries/FMs speed up flower garden.

I feel garden should be filled with vegetables, fruits, flowers, herbs, fragrance, birds, butterflies, bugs,...wow may be I am just day dreaming! -Chandra


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

I just replied to another post that I tended to spend time just daydreaming - synchronicity, Chandra!

Everything you speak of is a desire to create your own eco-system. We need all of those things to make a healthy garden.

Susan


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Of all the plants I have ever sold, I get more feedback/comments on the Spigelia marilandica (Indian Pink). I have decided to bring it back this spring, if anyone is interested. Its slow to start, but makes a long lasting perennial once established.

Here is a link that might be useful: Indian Pink


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Gary, Indian Pink look awesome, I would like to try if it tolerate little-care under newbie's hands... -Chandra


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

We may have to plan a get together in front of Gary's booth at one of the farmer's markets. I don't get to Tulsa very much but I may have to plan a trip. I would like to buy one of those for sure. Can you tell us more about it?


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

I will let you all know when I have them available. I hope they will be big enough by late Spring.

Spigelia can't be grown from cuttings. I really don't recommend division. It is only possible from seed and it rarely makes seed (for me). It takes a long time to get them going, but once big enough to flower they grow very well. It is an Oklahoma Native, but only in McCurtain County if memory serves me correctly.

I also grow the Oklahoma Native Palm (plant) Tree (Sabal minor) which is also only native to McCurtain County, but it will grow as far north as Kansas

Here is a link that might be useful: Native Palm Sabal minor


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Gary, I've had my Indian Pinks for about 6 years now, but I don't recall them taking that long to establish. They bloomed the first year I planted them from very small bare-root plants. They are truly easy, Chandra, if you want an easy plant that you can virtually ignore, after the first year I'd say. I do absolutely nothing to mine. Even in a drought year it will die back, but return the following year. The hummers love it, too. It blooms generally in late spring to early summer, and sometimes reblooms in late summer to early fall.

I think it is one of the prettiest native wildflowers of any of them. The blooms remind me of tropical flowers. Nothing bothers it - insect pests, bugs, disease, whatever.

It is both deer and rabbit resistant, which means they don't prefer it, but might eat it if other food is not readily available.

Operation Rubythroat lists it as a top ten hummingbird plant. I love this little native, and it can be grown in shade or sun.

What more could you ask of a plant?

I haven't tried this, Gary, but at that other plant forum (you know which?), people say they have reseeded around - not invasively at all. I haven't had that happen with mine, yet anyway. But, they are one of those plants with seedpods that explode when they are ripe. Bagging the blossoms would help in that case. But, I don't know that I have ever seen the seed for sale, have you?

I looked a little further and Easy Wildflowers states that cuttings should be taken of non-flowering stems, or before the plant blooms, and suggests 2-3 node cuttings. Don't know if the stems strike roots better that way or not, but worth trying.

I would strongly recommend getting plants from Gary if you can because locally grown natives adapt much better.

I visit the websites of both Easy Wildflowers and Illinois Wildflowers frequently because they have a lot of information available on the various genera and individual species of wildflower natives.

I would expect this little native to get a Perennial Plant of the Year award in the future.

Susan

Here is a link that might be useful: Spigelia marilandica/Indian Pink


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RE: Oklahoma flowers

Gary,
I'd definitely be interested in an Indian Pink too. I'll be watching for information on when/where they'll be available.

Suzie


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