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sammy_gw

New plant advice/ how cold

sammy zone 7 Tulsa
11 years ago

I have a large rose garden, but want to add more perennials. I would like advice on how to grow these, and especially what is the lowest temperature they can take now.

Tomatoes - they will go into large pots. When should I cover them, or pull them out and bring them in?

hollyhocks. 5-6 feet.

Bee balm 36"

2 Iceland poppies

2 Bloddy Docks

Lavender

2 Phlox - 3 ft

2 Gaillardia (red)

low phlox - I think I know where to put them

Would any of these look ragged in a rose bed?

They are all perennials, but do you think they will all survive the temperatures here - hot and cold?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Sammy

Comments (5)

  • Lisa_H OK
    11 years ago

    I have holly hocks growing in my garden right now. They have not minded the cold at all. However if you are buying them from a nursery, that may be a different deal.

    Do you have the right conditions for lavender in your rose bed? They want sharp drainage and usually drier than roses. I had lavendar at the end of my driveway bed for a few years. It did well there until we had a rainy spring a few years ago. I have nepeta 'walkers low' now in several places. And it is fairly happy. Can you come to the spring fling? It is up your direction this year. I could bring you some of the nepeta to try.

  • MiaOKC
    11 years ago

    Sammy, I am a huge fan of the cottage garden look with mixed plantings, because I am a casual person and casual beds work for me! An exclusively rose bed feels more formal, in my opinion. So maybe it depends on the vibe you want your garden to have to know if you'll think they look ragged.

    Of your list, I've grown phlox, beebalm and gaillardia. I started the gaillardia from seed, and I think it was a biennial. No blooms the first year, blooms the second, then didn't come back. Maybe there are different cultivars that are perennial? The pink phlox I had was... rambunctious. Ha! As was the beebalm. At different times I tried to get rid of both because they wanted to take over, and I only was able to eradicate the beebalm. The phlox stayed. :-) of the two, I wouldn't plant the beebalm again but am trying to think of a way to safely work phlox into my new landscape - it was a beautiful, iron-clad bloomer, and I'm hoping I can find one that's less pushy.

    Oh, I also have creeping purple phlox now and it's been gorgeous these last few weeks.

  • helenh
    11 years ago

    I think bloody dock likes lots of moisture. Iceland poppies bloom early and don't like heat but are very pretty. I have never had success with them but I didn't try that hard. Phlox and monarda (bee balm) are easy to grow but monarda in moist good soil will have to be contained thinned. You can keep it in control though and I'd rather have something that will grow than a whimpy plant. Hollyhocks can look ratty but if you are spraying roses that may keep the bugs off. They are beautiful and the tall element is interesting. I like them at a distance on the edge of the garden or as a backdrop. Some are prettier than others. I like the singles. I live seven miles from OK and have the same climate as Grove without the lake influence.

  • sammy zone 7 Tulsa
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    It is so tempting to go to the spring fling, but the weekend is the only time I have to work outside. Thank you for thinking of me.

    Lisa, thanks for the warning about the Lavender. I may need to replace it next year with another plant, and I will try the nepeta.

    THanks Mac. I do like the cottage garden look also. In the past I have used annuals, but that tends to be costly, so this year I thought I would branch out.

    Helen thanks. I will take notes, but no plant in my yard has had spray for many years now. The roses that are unhappy are gone. I have gone from about 300 to last year's 156. Most did not leave because of disease but because I stopped doing climbers.

    Sammy

  • susanlynne48
    11 years ago

    Hollyhock foliage is susceptible to a disease called Rust and the foliage has a tendency to tear easily in our winds. If you can make them a "background" plant and hide the leaves, they will be fine, although the flowers may compete with the rose blooms for attention. Newer cultivars may be more resistant to disease, too, and you don't say whether you have the biennial varieties or perennial. Biennial don't bloom the first year, but rather the second, and they will reseed some. The perennial may or may not bloom the first year but will bloom every year once they start.

    Not sure about Iceland poppies. Just the common name alone suggests they might not like it here in Oklahoma, even though most true poppies are spring season plants, dying back when the weather heats up.

    Lavender can be finicky. As Lisa says, it likes excellent drainage. Gritty, sandy loam is best, but as long as it drains very quickly, it will do okay. Once established, it barely needs any moisture at all, so I wouldn't pair it with anything that needs even regular watering. Throw some extra lime in and mix with the soil, even if you intend to plant in a container. Some Lavenders sold locally perform as annuals here. One that is perennial is Lavender x intermedia 'Provence'.

    Did you get annual Gaillardia or perennial? It likes good drainage, too.

    Most all plants want good drainage, all in all.

    Susan