You don't want to amend the soil in the hole at all. Because, it would encourage the roots to just stay in the hole area... where the soil is "nice".

The current recommendations from the OSU extension is to only return the original soil to the area. However, you should make somewhat of a ring, where the water would stay and sink, rather than run off.

Much more important will be watering. He will need to water the trees regular this summer, and a few times in the winter for the tree to take off.

Moni

Moni's right. In addition to what she said, it is important to mulch the young tree from the beginning, so as to conserve that water.

I agree with everything that Moni and Dorothy said. One additional reason that you do not amend soil in a limited area to plant a tree in dense clay is that it creates a bathtub effect with the amended area filling with water like a tub and holding that water too long around the tree roots. Trees do just fine in native clay except for a few that need really well-drained soil, and the trees you mentioned are not picky about soil drainage.

I hope you enjoy yourself on the 5-state run.

Dawn

I somehow missed the mention of the five state run. When, where?

There is a 5 state bike ride at the end of September that I hope to compete in, at least, I paid my entry fee already.

Moni

Moni,Dorthy,Dawn
Thank you I know nothing about planting trees.
Where I grew up there where so many trees we had to clear them for the cattle and gardens.
All the fruit trees I grew up with were planted before my time all I know is how to cut them up for firewood, thats how we heated our farm house.

Moni I couldn't ride a bike a mile let alone thru 5 states I'm laughing at that it's a motorcycle 5 state run.
TREE

Mine is on a bicycle... and it is a fund raiser for cancer research. It will be 120 something... I forgot... I don't really want to think so much about it yet... I need a lot of training first. :)

Moni

Here is a link that might be useful: lukes 5 line bike ride...

The growth rate of the trees can be greatly increased by eliminating all competition in at least a 3 ft diameter the first year and 3 ft radius for the next few years until the tree can shade out that size area on its own. This combined with a mulch of a couple of inches more than doubles the growth rate of pecan trees.

Scot, How close are your pecan trees planted? I am hoping to add ten or twelve trees next Spring, and have seen various info on planting distance.

Up checking the radar and saw your post.

I have a small orchard of 100 trees with tight spacing of 26' by 26' and a new orchard of spacing of about 40' by 60'. Spacing depends on how soon you are willing to cut some down, and if you are trying new cultivars and will pick the best ones to keep after you see how they perform. I know enough now (and have gotten lazier) about my soil, shading, and cultivar performance that I space further apart.

If I was buying the trees and they are fairly expensive, then I would space them at 50' to 60' apart so you don't have to cut any down for 30 to 40 years. If they are inexpensive and you don't mind thinning them out in 15 to 20 years, then 30' to 40' apart would be good and you could try out more cultivars. Make sure you get cultivars that pollinate each other if you only do a few and don't have native pecan trees nearby.