It looks more like Black Maur/Black Moor than anything from the Cherokee Purple family. I say that based on the fruit's size and shape. Those tomatoes do not resemble CP or CG in any shape, form or fashion except that they are tomatoes. If you want to see ripe fruit on a BM plant, go to Tatiana's Tomato Base and use the search feature (or the alphabetical part of the tomato data base part of her website) to find Black Moor, which is the more common name for the variety also called Black Maur. You'll see your fruit is the right shape and size (those fruit in your photo aren't stunted) for BM.

Green for two weeks? They've got a long way to go. Tomatoes stay green forever before they break color and start developing their mature color. How long "forever" is depends on many factors, included their estimated DTM. The fruit start out green with all tomatoes regardless of their eventual ripe color. They stay green until they reach their mature size. Then they stay green for a while longer before they finally break color. Once they break color you stay have to wait a few more days. I cannot really tell you how many days they stay green at their full size before they break color because there are many variables, but it usually is weeks, not days.

I'm going to link an interesting page full of photos that shows the evolution of a Big Beef tomato fruit cluster from the formation of the first bloom to the first ripe tomato and then beyond that so you even get to see how the fruit declines if it isn't picked at the proper time.

Look at how long it takes it to go from green and full-sized to fully ripe, not to mention how long it took it to get full-sized to begin with.

I don't know when you transplanted that one into the ground, but it is a mid-season variety. For comparison, I've been harvesting from mid-season varieties for several weeks now, from plants that went into the ground around the third week of March. The ones that are just now producing their first ripe fruit are varieties with DTMs of 70-80 days. A few that had blooms or small tomatoes on them when I put them in the ground in March produced their first ripe fruit the last week of April. However, most of them didn't have fruit or flowers when planted, and the ones that didn't bloom until early April are just now producing ripe fruit. I don't have any ripe fruit from the March planting on varieties that take longer than 80 days to produce, but it looks like we may have the first ripe Brandywine in about 2 weeks....and it has a very long DTM. From plants I put into the ground from 1 to 4 weeks after the first March planting, the only varieties to produce ripe fruit yet are those with DTMs in the 50s/60s. If you can remember when you put that Black Maur in the ground, maybe you can compare it to the varieties I put in the ground and guesstimate how much longer you have to wait for a ripe one.

Now, check out the timeline below. I think it is a really cool learning tool for folks who are fairly new to growing tomatoes.

The best way to get green tomatoes to ripen, by the way, is to go out of town for a few days when you have plants loaded up with green fruit. Come back after a week's vacation, and they'll all be red and some will be overly ripe. I think they do that just to drive their growers insane.

Here is a link that might be useful: Timeline Of A Tomato Truss

That is neat. I had no idea it took so long. It seems like waiting on that first tomato takes forever and then a couple weeks later they all hit. I am glad to know this so I can quit stalking my green tomatoes.
I am in a friendly competition with my friend since he started bragging how big his plants were compared to my scrawny ones HA.
kim
who is waiting patiently for color

Kim, Big plants do not necessarily produce first because often they are getting too much nitrogen and stay focused on making more vegetative growth versus fruit, so your plants may produce a ripe fruit before your friend's plants do.

Tim and I were in the car one day when our VFD first responders were paged to a medical call in our neighborhood. I responded to the call with him since I was in the car, but there was no reason for me to go indoors since I am not a trained first responder. Instead, I stood outside and chatted with the son of the patient. There was a big garden plot with three widely spaced (maybe 10-12 feet apart) tomato plants in it. They were the most gorgeous tomato plants I ever had seen---about 8 to 10' tall and practically as wide. They were pefectly healthy, lush and very green and not one single discolored leaf on them. They looked amazing, but had one problem---not a single fruit. To be honest, from where we stood, I couldn't even see a single flower, so I knew something was wrong with those plants. Their foliage provided the clue---first of all, just by the fact that there was so much of it. Also, it was a very dark green that was almost a blue-green, and that is a sign of too much nitrogren.

So, all I'm saying is that big plants are not necessarily earlier to produce fruit or likely to produce more fruit. I think struggling tomato plants often produce more fruit, and for a logical reason---the whole purpose of the plant producing fruit is so it is producing seed to perpetuate its species. When a plant is stressed, it has to get that seed produced so its species will live on after it dies. A very lush, healthy, gigantic plant that has lots of water and fertilizer doesn't feel compelled to hurry up and produce fruit/seed to perpetuate its species because it isn't getting any clues that its life is drawing to an end. I often get the heaviest loads of fruit from plants that have had to struggle a bit due to the weather conditions---they know they need to hurry up and make seed, and so they do.

Dawn

Squeeeeeeeeeeeaal !!!

Ooooh, it's x-mas all over again. First there's dine and slap beans. Then, healthy normal-sized maters. And those maters are Russian. How 'bout that!!

Bon you crack me up! I love how excited everyone here gets over gardening.
Dawn I figured that to be true cuz last year my most beautiful plant, in a low spot, never produced one tomato and my ugliest scrawny one, a Roma was the best producer and one of the last one to keep putting out. I guess the big one was getting all the water it wanted and never felt threatened.
My friend wins either way cuz I like to give away the firsts!
kim

They turned orangish!!!! And the whole plant is loaded with tomatoes. I had to put baskets under the stems to get them off the ground.

Oh Bon - I can just see you "Squeeeeeeeeeeeaaling" and doing a little jig! I think we need to give you the title of "The Happiest Girl In The Whole Wide World". (Remember that song?)

Mary

I really do feel like the happiest girl when I'm in the garden. It's superb when my little girl gets that excited over flowers. I think she's probably going to light the moon when the pink peonies from Lisa bloom next year. I can relate! hehe

Yay!!

Bon, You do know that you don't have to wait for them to ripen on the vine before you pick them, don't you? Once they reach the breaker stage, you can pick them and put them on a counter indoors, out of direct sunlight, and they will finish ripening and coloring up more quickly indoors than out. In our climate, picking them at the breaker stage can give you a better harvest because you get those fruit inside the house before stink bugs or caterpillars can ruin them. Their flavor and color will be just as good as it would be if you left them on the vine until they were ripe.

I picked about 150 large tomatoes on Wednesday and Thursday and lined them up on my plant light shelf to finish coloring up (just because it has a large flat surface that was empty since there's no plants growing on it now). Most of those were barely at the breaker stage. By last night, at least half of them (the ones I picked Wed) were fully colored up and at just the right degree of softness (the softness is another indicator of ripeness), so I'll be running them through the tomato strainer today so I can make more salsa. The other half likely will be ready to eat and use on either Sat or Sun.

I'll link a chart that shows which stage is the breaker stage. My dad usually harvested at the breaker stage and let the tomatoes finish ripening indoors, and stink bugs were the reason why. I'm already seeing more stink bug damage than usual on tomato fruit, so am hoping to keep that to a minimum by bringing them indoors as soon as it is possible to do so.

Dawn

Here is a link that might be useful:

OH how I envy you Dawn and Bon!! Can I come get a few tomatoes from you?? :) Ours are just starting to get tomatoes about the size of your thumb.
My mouth waters every time I read your post!!!

Sorie, we need to go to Dawn's place. She's doing the salsa again!

Dawn, I did not know that! You can bet I'll go get them after I click "send". I have totally been worried about them attracting bugs as much as me.

Um... all I can say is "Wow!" I tasted it. A bit early. I cannot believe the reduced acidic taste. The next thought I had was "This is gonna make some serious fried tomatoes." I like to saute, season and stew a bit for reduction and eat it with flat bread or pita. Kinda like a pesto. These are gonna be superb!