Green Arrow only gets about 24-30" tall, so you don't have to trellis them. They will intertwine with one another and sort of help hold each other up. Most of the pea pods are produced near the top of the plants so they are easy to pick. There are other varieties that are vining types and they would need a trellis if you were growing that type or you'd have a big tangled mess.

When I trellis vining peas, I normally hammer green 6' or 8' tall green metal t-posts into the ground and attach woven wire fencing to the posts with zip ties. I mostly grow vining kinds of edible podded peas and don't grow green English peas any more because the green English peas just don't produce well enough here (where we usually either stay too hot too late into the fall or get too hot too early in spring for them) for me to devote space to them. Back when I did grow green English peas, Green Arrow did better for me in spring than in fall. I am pretty far south and often we still are in the 90s during the day even into October, and the peas sometimes just sit and sulk until we cool off, and then...BAM! The nights start getting too cold for them, so then their productivity drops.

I still got a harvest from English peas most years, but it was a meager one most years compared to the sugar snap type peas. Edible Podded Peas, also known as Sugar Snap Peas (varieties include Sugar Snap, Super Sugar Snap, Cascadia and Sugar Lace), give me about 4 times as much of a harvest as green English peas so they're the only cool-season peas I grow any more.

Do you remember the name of the cucumber variety you planted? There are vining types and bush types, so if yours won't climb a trellis, I think you likely planted a bush type.

I grow cukes on the same type of trellises I use for sugar snap peas, pole beans, smaller-fruited winter squash, Armenian cukes (they are melons and not actually cucumbers), gourds, true cantaloupes, muskmelons, and icebox watermelons.

Bush cucumber varieties are fine if you are growing slicing type cucumbers for fresh eating. I prefer the vining types for pickling because you need a lot of cucumbers at once to make pickles, and I get more cucumber per square foot of planted garden space from vining types. Also, for pickling, the cucumbers that grow higher above the soil on trellises are cleaner than those from bush plants that grow closer to the ground. You still have to scrub them before canning them, but I just like starting out with them being fairly clean to begin with.

Normally vining types of cucumbers will climb a trellis just fine, but every now and then one of the plants obstinately decides to crawl across the ground instead. When they do that, once they have a little length on them, I pick up the vine and weave it through the trellis a bit to encourage it to climb instead of sprawling.

My Green Arrow peas grown in Ga were supper charged and got between 5 and 8 feet tall. This is my English pea bed. I interplanted both Green Arrow and Wando. The package said Green Arrow would reach only 2 feet tall and the Wando package said they would get 30 inches tall. Because I interplanted them, I don't know which ones grew the tallest. But all the peas in this bed were between 5 and 8 feet tall,. Maybe my compost was too rich in nitrogen. This is the first year I grew English peas so I do not know if production was affected by the rapid growth.

I've had peas and half-runner beans do that some years and have had it happen with bush-type southern peas too, but it doesn't happen every year. You'll never hear me complain when the half-runner beans or dwarf peas climb too tall because it just means a better harvest. With pea plants that tall, you should have had a great harvest. If the harvest was lacking, I'd think the soil had too much nitrogen and the plants stayed vegetative too long, but it also could be that the weather got too hot when they were blooming and setting peas and that shut down production. In climates like you have there and we have here, I think the onset of hotter temperatures affects both English and snap pea production more than any other factor.

The seed packet says that spacing for green arrow peas is 1" to 3"---does that work? Are they too crowded? Last fall I didn't plant them so close together, but currently they are that close. Just wondering if I need to thin them.

Oh, and I only have one long row. Nothing else is in the big garden bed other than a pumpkin that came up on it's own. (The jack o lanterns were thrown in there after Halloween).

I have some that are a little too close this year but I normally plant about 3 inches apart. I had soaked the entire package, and pre-sprouted it and got caught by the rainfall before I had a place ready. I had a big tree pot with really good soil in it, so I planted the whole package and put a CRW cage in the container for them to climb. I had spaced them out but we got a really heavy rain and they washed around. They are going to grow where they landed, and some are REALLY close. LOL They are yellow podded snow peas so maybe I will be able to see them against the tangle of vine.

I usually only plant Sugar Snap or Super Sugar Snap, then some type of snow pea, but no garden peas. Every year I worry that I will be too late to get a crop, but I have always had one. Some years the season is short, but my plan is just to eat them fresh anyway. I have peas in three stages right now, but the tallest ones are only 6-8 inches tall and haven't yet grabbed the trellis. The container planted pre-sprouted ones seem to be shooting up fast. First, they were pre-sprouted, and second, they are about 2 inches above ground level in a black pot. They will probably produce first, but die-back first as well. Edible pod peas are great snack food for gardeners before the cherry tomatoes are ready.