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Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

Posted by okiedawn Z7 OK (My Page) on
Mon, Dec 7, 09 at 8:44

I'm starting this thread for Melissa, who asked questions in another thread about using containers to give herself more space for vegetables. I hope the rest of you who grow in containers will comment as well.

Growing in containers can work out really well as long as you match your ultimate plant size to your container size, use a quality soil-less container mix that drains well, and pay careful attention to fertility and watering issues.

You can grow anything in a container successfully--veggies, flowers, herbs, ornamental grasses, dwarf fruit trees, etc. as long as the container you choose is large enough for the mature size of the plant you place into it. If the container is too small, the plant may survive but it will not reach its full capability.

CONTAINERS: Anything that will hold an adequate amount of soil and yet allow drainage of excess water can be used as a container. Here's a list of some of the containers people use to grow plants: clay or ceramic pottery, plastic pots, plastic or metal buckets, molasses feed tubs, kiddie wading pools, galvanized metal stock tanks and feed buckets, window boxes, wooden boxes, old (leaky) watering cans, Rubbermaid and similar storage totes, burlap bags, feed bags, bags of potting soil (poke drainage holes in the bottom, and cut an X" in the top of the bag and plant right into it), purchased self-watering containers like Earth Boxes, homemade self-watering containers, and grow bags. The possibibilies are endless.

Any container you use needs to have adequate drainage holes, and lots of them. We drill nickle-sized to quarter-sized holes in the bottom of containers, like feed tubs, that we turn into containers for plants. You can line the inside of the container with landscape fabric cut to fit the bottom to help keep soil from washing out the bottom of the container if you want.

Self-watering containers are wonderful for many crops because they keep the moisture level high so that the plants don't dry out or suffer from a lack of moisture. Because you put fertilizer (chemical or organic, your choice) in the container's fertilizer strip, good plant nutrition is assured. I'm not sold on the idea of SWCs for tomatoes, though, because tomatoes are one of the few crops that suffer a distinct loss of flavor if grown in soil that is too wet. Tomatoes give better flavor if kept on the dry side as the fruit ripens.

If you want to learn more about self-watering containers, google and read about the commercial product called "Earth Boxes". If you want to make your own self-watering containers, go to the GW container forum and search there to see how various people have made them, or go to the GW Forum and search there for Raybo's homemade Earthtainers.

CONTAINER MIX: The ideal container mix will not contain any dirt or soil from your yard or garden. Instead, it will be a soil-less mix. You can buy any high-quality potting soil mix for containers or you can make your own. Do NOT buy the cheapest 'potting soil' you can find (unless you're going to add lots of compost or peat moss to it) because a lot of cheap potting soils have a heavy clay content and drain poorly--which is why they are so cheap.

The ideal potting soil will be light and fluffy because it has lots and lots of air holes that allow roots, water and nutrients to move around freely within the container. A good soil-less mix will have a good percentage of organic matter like compost (homemade or purchased) or sphagnum peat moss, or coir (coco peat, often sold compressed), and usually contains vermiculite or perlite and usually a little lime added to give your plants the calcium they need. I also add very finely shredded pine bark, often referred to as pine bark fines.

I normally add some blood meal to the mix in each pot as a source of nitrogem, some bone meal for good root growth, and an organic fertilizer like Tomato-Tone (for tomatoes, peppers, eggplants and other similar veggies) or Plant-Tone. You also can add composted manure, greensand (for potassium and micronutrients), soft rock phosphate (for phosphorus and microutrients), and other ingredients depending on what is necessary for whatever plant is going into that container.

There's an old thread where we discuss soil-less potting mixes in great detail. I'll try to find it and link it at the end of this thread.

CONTAINER SIZE: If your containers are large enough, you can grow anything you want in them. Try to match the container size to the ultimate size of the veggie you are growing. A standard indeterminate tomato plant will not grow well in a 5-gallon bucket for example, but a dwarf tomato or a determinate will do OK, although they'll do even better in a 7- or 10-gallon container. A standard indeterminate tomato plant will need at least a 20-gallon container in order to grow and produce well, and you can use molasses feed tubs, whiskey half-barrels, or something similar in size.

If you are curious about what size container is needed for each specific veggie variety, visit containerseeds.com and read their recommendations which are included with each veggie. In our climate, I wouldn't go any smaller that the container sizes suggested on that website and, because of the heat, it wouldn't hurt to go a little larger.

If you want to grow really large plants, like bush pumpkins (Cheyene is a bush pumpkin variety) or some of the more compact winter squash (Bush Delicata is a good one) or mini-melons, like Bush Sugar Baby or Yellow Doll, go with nothing smaller than 20 or 25 gallons. A child's wading pole with lots of drainage holes in the bottom can work well for these, or metal/rubber stock watering tanks or very large storage totes with drainage holes drilled in them. Large indeterminate tomatoes need large containers too. Corn can be grown in very large containers with several plants per container, but you'll need a block of containers covering at least a 4' x 4' area or a 6' x 6' area to esure adequate pollination of the ears to get good tip fill. If I were trying to grow corn in a container, I'd use Jade Blue or Early Sunglow because they are naturally small plants. Summer squash of all types, including zucchini, need very large containers.

In medium-sized containers (5-10 gallons) you can grow most peppers, eggplants, determinate and dwarf tomato varieties, broccoli (can put one plant in a 5-gallon container or two in a ten-gallon if you use smallish plants like 'Small Miracle'), bush beans or peas (number of plants per container would vary depending on container size), carrots, onions (a dozen or more per container depending on container size), cabbage (if using dwarf varieties, you can plant several in a medium to large sized container), cauliflower (one per medium container or 2 to 4 in a really large container), cucumbers (one plant per container unless you have a really large container, and then maybe two), lettuce (can grow in any container from small to large), radishes can be grown in almost any size container like onions...the size of the container dictates how many you can plant in each container), strawberries (strawberry pots are made just for them) or swiss chard (1 or more plants per container depending on how often you harvest the outer leaves).

Sweet potatoes can be grown in containers....maybe 2 plants per large-sized containers or 1 plant per medium-sized container.

Potatoes can be grown in containers, but they need large, deep containers---at least a foot deep and 5 to 7 gallons for one plant. Smartpots, a mesh-like pot originally developed for growing trees in a nursery setting, are great for potatoes. Because potatoes form their tubers (that's the potato part you eat) along an underground stem, you need to plant them deep, deep, deep and add soil as that main stem grows up, up, up. When growing them in the ground, you plant them 8" deep and 'hill up' the soil as they grow, and that's the practice you want to emulate when raising them in containers.

SMALL CONTAINERS: I would consider anything less than 5 gallons to be a small container for growing veggies or herbs in our climate. You can normally put almost any herb in a small pot, as well as short, round carrots like Tom Thumb or Parmex, garlic, bunching onions, onions (but not too many in one container), VERY dwarf tomatoes like Canary Yellow, Red Robin, Orange Pixie, Tumbling Tom, Red or Yellow Tumbler, or Tiny Tim. You can grow some of the smaller bell pepper plants like Blushing Beauty in smallish containers, but pick plants that only get about 18" tall.

PLANT SUPPORTS: Plants like cucumbers or peas (even dwarf ones) do best if you provide them with a trellis or stake to climb, and trellises or cages are better than stakes. Even so-called bush cucumbers more or less vine and sprawl, so it is better to let them grow upward where you can easily find and harvest the cukes, than to let them hang over the edges of the pots (which gives cukes a hiding place).

With every veggie and herb variety, there is at least one dwarf or semi-dwarf form that will grow better in pots than similar veggies that are more used to growing to a larger mature size.

WATERING: Most people who fail with containers will fail because of watering issues: too much water, too little water, too little fertilizer (because water washes fertilizer out of the pots constantly), or poor drainage in pots which keep plant roots too wet. Understand that in hotter weather....and here in Oklahoma that generally means all of July and August and sometimes portions of June and September as well.....plants in containers will need water daily, and sometimes twice a day.

You cannot go away on vacation for a week, or even a long weekend, without arranging for someone to check your plants every single morning and every single evening and to water them as needed once or twice a day. You might be able to skip that step if you have a drip irrigation system set up on a timer, but it still would be best to have someone check the plants twice a day because, if your timer fails or dripline clogs, your plants will die while you are away on vacation.

FERTILIZATION: I put as heavy of a compost/manure/organic matter content in my pots as I reasonably can. I add organic fertilizers and will feed the plants with a water-based organic fertilizer (compost or manure tea, fish emulsion, liquid seaweed, etc.) as needed. You also can use a pelleted, slow-release chemical fertilizer if you use chemical products. You have to be careful about overfeeding with nitrogen, which gives you lush leafy growth but fewer of non-leafy veggies. The issue with container is that every time you water, nutrients wash out of the soil so you have to constantly add nutrients to counteract the leaching.

CONTAINER PLACEMENT AND MULCHING: Choose your container location carefully. I normally put down a couple of thick layers of carboard on top of the ground to keep weeds and grass away from my containers, and then line up the containers in a row on that cardboard. Then, I layer 4-6" of mulch, usually straw of hay, on top of the cardboard and all around the pots.

I also normally stop my soil about 3-4" below the top of the container so I can add a lot of mulch to the surface of the soil after the plants are up and growing. The mulch will reduce soil splash, which will reduce disease, and will keep the soil cooler and more moist.

Position your containers where they will get enough light, where you can access them easily to water them and to harvest, and where they are sheltered from strong winds.

I normally put tomato cages in my large containers, and then stake those cages to 2 to 4 large stakes hammered into the ground. This keeps the heavy winds from blowing over the containers most of the time. If you get 50 mph or higher winds, though, even a staked plant may be blown over. I use zip ties, purchased in bulk at Lowe's every spring (if you are a gardener, zip ties are a great stocking stuff for Santa to leave in your Christmas stocking!) to attach the cages to the stakes.

WATERING: You need to water consistently. Self-watering containers will do this for you but you still have to remember to check and refill the water reservoirs. Plants need to grow in soil that is consistently moist, but you should avoid putting the through a flood/drought cycle by watering very, very heavily one day and then letting them dry out and wilt before you water them again. Consistenc is the key to successful watering.

One advantage to containers is that you can move them around to suit you. If they seem like they are not getting enough light, move them to a less shady location. If the July or August heat are brutal, move them to a shadier location.

I put container tomato plants in medium-sized containers on the concrete patio in full sun in February because they need all the sun and heat they can get at that time of year. (They go into the garage on cold days or nights.) However, I move those plants to a cooler location in late May or early June because they don't need the extra heat from the slab once hot weather arrives.

PESTS: If you are in a rural to semi-rural area where rabbits and deer, among other critters, nibble or even devour your plants, they likely will bother the container plants as much as they bother the in-ground plants, so site your containers in a location where the plants are protected from the animals, whether by fencing or deer netting or whatever. Deer won't bother plants that I have lined up along the dog yard fence, but rabbits will bother those plants at night when the dogs are sleeping inside the house or garage.

I cage almost every container I have to keep the rabbits and deer from having easy access to the plants.

Got more questions about growing in plants? Ask away.

There are smaller bush or dwarf varieties of almost everything you could want to grow in containers, so ask if you need a variety name.

Dawn

P.S. Since the GW search function is not working well, I haven't been able to find the old thread on potting soil mix. I'm going to go ahead and 'submit' this thread before I lose it, and then I'll keep looking for that old thread and will come back and link it after I find it.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Here's The Old Thread

After I stopped searching so hard for it, of course I found it right away, so it is linked below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Previous Thread on Growing in Containers


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

Dawn you are amazing - its like you are a mind reader for all of us who are inside most of the day and dreaming about what we can do in the Spring. I had an accident last year and was unable to do my usual gardening - so my DH fixed several container plants close to the greenhouse so I could still have my "gardening fix" - he brought in an old stock tank with rusted bottom, a couple of old feeders and several 5-gallon buckets and large pots. I found that by planting squash in containers at least a foot off the ground I didn't have even one squash bug! I had several in the same feeder so the pollination was okay too - I put cucumbers in a large tub with a tomato cage inside the tub - the cucs were long and straight and easy to pick. I will probably be a lot more mobile this summer and able to garden more like I always have before, but I'm planning on increasing my container plants - there are so many positive things and it's definitely easier to control the weeds and to pick your produce too. Thanks for trying to keep us sane during the winter months.


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

What else could you add to that? :)

Beth


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

Hi Farmgardener,

"Garden talk" here on this forum helps me keep my sanity during the cold, gloomy months. : )

I'm sorry to hear about your accident and hope you're feeling well enough to do more traditional gardening in the spring. I love containers because they are a lot easier than improving our heavy, thick red clay and I can move them to shadier areas when the July and August heat get too intense.

Lots of pests that live some of their life cycle in the ground don't seem to 'find' plants in containers. Even when I have tomato hornworms in the main garden, they seldom migrate to the container garden, which is about 100' away.

I am sure we'll find lots to talk about this winter as we look at catalogs, read books, plan our gardens on paper, make lists of varieties we want to grow, etc.

Hi Beth,

Well, I thought about adding a list of vegetable varieties that have been developed especially for containers, but I was afraid my post would then be so long that no one would read it. I may come back and add that list later.

Hope y'all are doing well there. We are freezing here and I am so tired of the cold.

Dawn


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

Yes, please add the list! When you can, of course. I'm buying a five gallon container here and there from my local grocery store and will be doing containers as I can next summer!

We're doing fine, VERY BUSY AND COLD. Supposed to be 19 degrees tonight! I'm tired of it too, and dreading what might come these next few months. (sigh) Practicing my baking and making cookies and stuff for gifts. PLUS running after my four year old! He's singing Christmas carols and having a ball this month... lol! :)

Beth


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

Dawn,
Thanks so much for all the info. I just need to get on the ball and get to planting. I am sorry it took me so long to respond. I started a new job and have been a bit overwhelmed. However, I am going to have to print your information out and make me a gardening book!! That way I can make sections and put this in the wintersowing section. I'm kinda obsessive compulsive like that about certain things! lol
Anyway, I really appreciate all the information and advice. And, a list would be wonderful.
melissa


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

Melissa,

You're welcome.

Here's the list of vegetable varieties suitable for growing in containers.

This is not an all-inclusive list but it does give you several options for each type of vegetable on the list.

With certain vegetables, like bush beans, for example, literally any variety available can be grown in containers. With tomatoes, literally any variety can be grown in containers, although the larger the mature size of the plant, the larger the container it will need. This year, I had several varieties of tomatoes, including Chocolate Stripes, Momotaro, Tropic and Red Defender reach 7' in height in molasses feed tub containers, which probably hold about 20 gallons of soil. Many other tomato plants, including Scarlet Red, Glacier, Sophie's Choice, New Big Dwarf and Red Defender reached about 3 to 4' or so in 7-gallon containers. Still others, including Ildi, Sioux, San Marzano Redorta, and Yellow Ball reached a height of 5' or taller in kitty litter buckets that hold about 5 gallons of soil. All of the container-grown plants produced heavily all season long. So, matching your plants' ultimate size to a container of the right size pays off.

If I know where the seeds are usually offered online, I mention the company. However, some companies haven't updated their websites for 2010 so I can't say that
they'll have the seed for 2010, just that they usually have it.

Dawn

Here's the abbreviations for the sources:

BCHS = Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds www.rareseeds.com
BURP = Burpee Seeds www.burpeeseeds.com
CG = The Cook's Garden www.cooksgarden.com
CON = Containerseeds.com (I only listed broccoli for this company but it probably has many of the varieties on this list)
JSCH = John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds www.kitchengardenseeds.com
NIC = Nichols Garden Nursery www.nicholsgardennursery.com
PARK = Park Seed www.parkseed.com
PINE = Pinetree Seeds www.superseeds.com
VS = Victory Seeds www.Victoryseeds.com
SSE = Seed Savers Exchange www.seedsavers.org
SESE = Southern Exposure Seed Exchange www.southernexposure.com
TGSC = Tomato Growers Supply Company www.tomatogrowers.com
TT = Totally Tomatoes www.totallytomatoes.com

BEANS:
Roma II (BCHS, VS, BUR)
Contender (BCHS, VS, BUR)
Top Crop (VS)
Gina (romano type) (NIC)
Provider (PINE, SESE, SSE, BUR)
Tendergreen (PINE, SSE)
Bush Blue Lake (BCHS, BUR, PINE, SESE)
Sequioia Purple Roma (BUR)
Royalty Purple Pod (BCHS, NIC, PINE, SSE, SESE)
Golden Wax Improved (VS)

BEANS, LIMA
Thorogreen (NIC)
Henderson Bush (BCHS, PINE, SESE)
Bush Jackson Wonder (BCHS, SESE)
Fordhook 242 (SESE)

BEETS
Red Ace (PINE)
Golden Globe (BUR, SSE)
Cylindra (BCHS, BUR, NIC, PINE, SSE)
Ruby Queen (PINE, VS)
Burpee's Red Ball (BUR)
Bull's Blood (highly ornamental foliage) (BUR)

BROCCOLI
Early Dividend (Territorial Seed used to carry it but I haven't bought it in several years so don't know if they still do.)
Small Miracle (PARK, CON)
Packman (NIC)

CABBAGE
Gonzales Mini-Cabbage (PINE)
Red Acre (SESE, VS)
Golden Acre (VS)
Savoy Express (JSCH)
Primero Red (JSCH)
Caraflex (JSCH)

CARROTS
Adelaide Baby (JSCH)
Short 'N Sweet (BUR)
Thumbelina (BUR)
Little Finger (PINE, VS)
Minicor (JSCH, NIC)
Mokum (PINE)
Parisian/Tonda di Parigi (PINE)
Red-Cored Chantenay (BUR, VS)
Improved Nantes (VS)
Scarlet Nantes (VS)
Parmex (JSCH, CG)

CAULIFLOWER:
Early Snowball (SESE)
Igloo (PINE)

CHARD:
any---they all get about the same size

CORN (SWEET):
Early Sunglow (BUR, NIC)
Blue Jade (dwarf) (SSE)
Quickie (PINE)
Golden Bantam (BUR, SESE)

CUCUMBER:
Salad Bush (NIC, PINE, TT, BUR)
Spacemaster (PINE, BUR, SESE)
Bush Champion (BUR)
Fanfare (TT)
Picklebush (BUR)
Bush Crop (PINE, VS)
Homemade Pickles (PINE, VS, TT)
Muncher (PINE)
Bush Pickle (TT)
Ellen's Family White (pickling) (SESE)
Arkansas Little Leaf H-19 (pickling) (SESE)

EGGPLANT:
Bambino (BUR, CG)
Fairy Tale (BUR, NIC))
Long Purple (BUR)
Slim Jim (PINE)
Raveena (PINE)
White Fingers (PINE)
Applegreen (BCHS, SESE, SSE)
Casper (SSE)
Diamond (SSE)
Neon (CG)

LETTUCE:
any, but here's some of the more compact ones
Tom Thumb (heads get tennis-ball sized) (NIC, SESE, VS)
Little Gem (VS)
Tennis Ball (SESE) This variety was grown by Thomas Jefferson at Monticello
Bronze Mignonette (VS)
Buttercrunch (SESE)

MELONS: These would need large containers--nothing smaller than the size of a half-whiskey barrel or child's wading pool. Old stock tanks are great for growing melons too.

Minnesota Midget (BCHS, SSE)
Green Machine (BCHS)
Sleeping Beauty (BCHS)

OKRA:
Little Lucy (NIC, PARK)
Baby Bubba (BUR)
Pitre's Short Bush Red Cowhorn 3' tall (BCHS)
Vidrine's Midget Cowhorn Okra (BCHS)
Choppee (SESE)
Dwarf Green Long Pod (VS)

ONION:
any short-day or intermediate types or any bunching types

PEAS:
Little Marvel (SESE)
Sugar Bon (BUR)
Snowbird Snow Pea (BUR)
Knight (PINE)
Lincoln (aka Homestead)
DeGrace Snow Pod (BCHS)
Oregon Sugar Pod II Snow Pea (BCHS)
Wando (BUR, SESE, VS)
Laxton's Progress No. 9 (VS)
Sugar Ann (SESE, VS)
Dwarf Gray Sugar (BUR, SESE, VS)
Tom Thumb (SESE)
Oregon Trail (NIC)
Sugar Spring (NIC)

PEPPERS:
almost any pepper can be grown in containers, but these few listed here are especially compact

Hot:
Biker Billy Jalapeno (BUR)
Pizza (NIC, TT)
Super Chile (TT)
TAM Jalapeno #1 (TT)
Thai Demon Red (NIC)

Medium:
Tangerine Dream (BUR)
Blushing Beauty (TT)
Redskin Red Bell (TT)
Mini Belle Mix (TT)
Mini Bell Choc (TT)
Mini Bell Yellow (TT)

POTATOES

any fingerling type like Russian Banana, Austrian Crescent, etc.

Red Pontiac or Red Norland

any other potato can be grown in very large containers

PUMPKINS
Cheyenne Bush (SSE)
Orange Smoothie (semi-determinate) (BUR, PINE)
Jack-B-Little (trellised) (BCHS, NIC, PINE)
Wee-B-Little (trellised) (NIC, PINE)

RADISHES:
any type excet the very large winter radishes or the very long Daikon types

Cherry Belle (PINE, NIC, SESE, VS)
French Breakfast/Early French Breakfast (BCHS, NIC, PINE, VS)
Easter Egg II Blend (TT)
White Hailstone (BCHS, PINE, VS)
Pink Beauty (BCHS, BUR)
Purple Plum (BCHS, SSE, VS)
Early Scarlet Globe (VS)

SQUASH (Summer):
Peter Pan Green Scallop (BUR)
Sunburst Scallop (PINE)
Saffron (PINE)
Eight Ball (NIC, PINE)
Greyzini (NIC)
Ronde De Nice (PINE)
Cocozelle (NIC, PINE)
Early White Bush Scallop (VS)
Yellow Bush Scallop (VS)
Papaya Pear (NIC, PINE)

SQUASH (Winter):
Bon Bon (NIC)
Butterbush (BUR)
Autumn Glow Butternut (BUR)
Bush Table Queen (BUR, SESE)
Bush Buttercup (BCHS)
Early Acorn (BUR)
Cornell's Bush Delicata (NIC, PINE)
Blue Baby Hubbard (BUR)

TOMATOES:

You can grow some ultra-small tomato plants in containers as small as 4" (Red Robin or Micro-Tom), in hanging baskets (Tumbler, Tumbling Tom, Florida Basket) and in larger 5 to 20-gallon containers, taking care to put Determinates in 5 to 10 gallon containers and Indeterminates in 7 to 20+ containers.

Here's some varieties that do well in containers.

Micro-Tom (TGSC)
Florida Basket (TGSC)
Elfin (TGSC)
Small Fry (TGSC, TT)
Tiny Tim (TT)
Tumbler (TT, BUR)
Tumbling Tom Red (PINE, TT, TGSC)
Tumbling Tom Yellow (PINE, TT, TGSC)
Balcony (CG)
Red Robin (TT)
Orange Pixie (NIC, TGSC)
Canary Yellow (TGSC)
Totem (TGSC)
Patio VF (TT)
Patio Princess (BUR)
Window Box Roma (NIC, TGSC)
Bush Early Girl (BUR, PIN, TGSC)
Better Bush (PINE)
Bush Big Boy (BUR)
Bush Goliath (PINE, TT)
Bush Beefsteak (TT, TGSC)
Bushsteak (BUR)
Martino's Roma (PINE, TT)
Sweet Baby Girl (BUR, NIC, TGSC)
Lime Green Salad (BCHS, TGSC, VS)
New Big Dwarf (TGSC)
Southern Night (a rare black determinate since most black tomatoes are indeterminate) (TGSC)
Green Grape (TGSC, VS)
Glacier (SESE, TT, TGSC)
Husky Red (TT,TGSC)
Husky Cherry Red (TT,TGSC)
Mountain Princess (BCHS, SESE)
Sophie's Choice (SESE)
Green Zebra (NIC, VS)
Black Sea Man (TT)

WATERMELON: You should grow these in containers no smaller than 20 gallons, such as whiskey half-barrels, children's wading pools, trash cans or stock tanks. Melons (and pumpkins too, in fact) need a lot of water and have very vigorous root systems so the large containers are necessary in order for them to do well.

Bush Sugar Baby (BUR)
Sugar Baby (BUR)
Blacktail Mountain (BCHS)
Golden Midget (BGHS)
Yellow Doll (NIC)


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

Dawn,
WOW!!! That's what I have to say about your list! I'm gonna have to copy this and print it out. That is great, thank you so much.
Melissa


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

And thank you from me too, Dawn! I've got a good source for food grade five gallon buckets now, so I'm going to be putting this list to good use. :)

Beth


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

Y'all are welcome.

I hope this info helps.

I should add that I have used many of these smaller, more compact plants in my regular garden in raised beds planted more or less in the style of "square foot gardening". With very close planting of more compact varieties, I am able to cram in many more plants into my raised beds than I otherwise could. Y'all know me.....since I insist upon growing four times as many plants as our improved soil/raised beds can accomodate, I have to use every trick in the book to squeeze all the plants I can into the soil I have. I even plant edible and ornamental peppers in all my large container plantings of angel's trumpets as
"understory plants". I'm still harvesting peppers from two or three of those plants because they are overwintering in the garage with the angel's trumpets.

On the tomato list, by the way, the ones at the top of the list are the smallest plants and the ones further down on the list are the larger plants.

Dawn


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

Dawn,
Interplanting with flowers is what I had in mind to begin with, with peppers! How neat that you do that!

The main thing that's really grabbing my attention with this list are the winter squashes. The butternut and blue hubbard! I was only gonna do a small order from Baker's, but now it's looking like I'm gonna order from Burpee's too. :)

Beth


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

Beth,

Watch your Wal-Mart, Lowe's and Home Depot. They all tend to have some Burpee seeds and for much lower prices than what you'll find in the catalogs.

Before you order, you might want to post a list of the seeds you're looking for, because someone here on this forum might have some extra seeds they'd be willing to share or swap.

Dawn


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

Dawn,
And you guys are so helpful with sharing seeds! I'm still not at the point where I can swap yet, but I can do postage after Christmas. I'll do a seperate thread with my gardening questions and list for 2010. :)

THANK YOU!

Beth


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RE: Growing in Containers in Oklahoma

Beth,

You're welcome.

I saw your new thread on your plans for 2010 and will respond to it late tonight or early tomorrow morning as I'll be heading out the door in a few minutes to go to the fire station to finish up a community Christmas project (tonight's the night to deliver toys to good little girls and boys in our fire district).

Dawn


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