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mes08

Fertilize and Plant Seed?

mes08
17 years ago

I have one area of my lawn that is pretty bare - I had it overseeded in the fall, but I believe it was done too late in the year (done at the end of October). I would like to put some seed down this spring, however, I also want to make sure I get the fertilizer down as well. Will the seeds germinate if I plant the seed and fertilize or will I have to wait for the grass to start growing?

Living in PA, by Philadelphia, what's the best time to do this? I assume at the end of March or early April, since it "usually" doesn't freeze over night, but one can never be sure about that. Thanks!

Comments (14)

  • okcdan
    17 years ago

    Put down alfalfa pellets 3 wks before you sow your seeds. The seeds themselves have everything they need to germinate & the alfalfa put out 3 wks before will make the nutrients available right when the new seedlings will be needing them. I suggest using alfalfa because they offer nutrients and a high availability of trace minerals. They contain trianconatol, a natural fatty-acid growth stimulant, which will help the seedling's roots. Apply at 20lbs per 1000sqft.

    I think TTTF & KBG and blends of those germinate in the area of 50 degrees range. You generally won't get results as good in spring overseeding as you will in the fall. This is because you'll usually lose some of the new grassplants in the summer heat. So, knowing that going in, you can be prepared to do some more overseeding next fall. TTTF should be overseeded every few years anyways, but KBG once established, if maintained well should not require overseeding.

    Good day, Dan

  • mes08
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Thank you! One quick question - should the alfalfa pellets be used as the fertilizer or should I add fertilzer afterwards as well. I had planned on using Ringers fertilzer this spring. My assumption is that I will spread the alfalfa pellets around mid-March - seed the bare spots in the beginning of April and then fertilize in mid April. Does that make sense? Is it wise to fertilize one more time, say end of May, before the summer heat as well?

    In the fall I will certainly overseed, I was just hoping to get some sort of growth in the spring.

    Thanks again for the help!

  • okcdan
    17 years ago

    The alfalfa is the fertilizer. Personally, I use only alfalfa pellets & soybean meal. The soybean meal is high in protein & is a good value. I buy 50lb bags for under $10 and 1 bag does my entire lawn. You'll save money using feed grains as opposed to packaged "natural" or "organic" fetilizers. Don't get me wrong, Ringers is a good fertilizer, but for me, I just can't see spending the extra cash. My lawn is bermuda & once it starts to green up here around the end of March or beginning of April, I'll apply alfalfa pellets, then every 30 days for the entire growing season until fall, I use soybean meal.

    Cool season grasses don't require as much fertilizer as my bermuda does, so your idea to add another application of fertilizer in May before the summer heat sets in is fine, since you won't be adding any more until fall.

    You should check out where you can purchase feed grains in your area & check on the price. I think you'll be pleased to learn you can feed your lawn & not break the bank while you do it.

  • mes08
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Thanks - that's great advice, I definatly try it.

    I will most likely have to order products online, unless anyone in this forum is familiar with Jeffersonville, PA (montgomery county - suburb of Philadelphia). If anyone knows of a good place to purchase organic lawn care products, it would be appreciated.

  • terryb
    17 years ago

    Bermuda Grass = Weeds from Africa just water deep for the Weeds

  • jeannie7
    17 years ago

    Mes, your overseeding your lawn last October should prove out this coming spring; you seeded at the exact right time to bring about the beginnings of a your lawn.

    You might have put down at the same time a "starter" fertilizer....20/27/5.....but the ratio can be varied according to the mfr.

    Since you wouldn't also put down seed in the spring until well into the days that have "warmed" your soil, what you put down last October might well show how far it has developed before that time.
    Again, if you did put down a starter last fall, you may decide not to apply as much....if any...in spring.
    If you didn't apply starter fertilizer at that time, then it is recommended that you do so when you re-seed in the spring.

    If you followed the usual method to bring about germination last October, you should see quantity of germination before the time arrives to re-seed again.

  • okcdan
    17 years ago

    mes08

    Here's a link to help you find feed stores that should be able to furnish you with inexpensive feed grains.

    (You can also check in your local yellow pages under feed stores and/or farm supplies)

    Good day, Dan

    Here is a link that might be useful: Feed store directory

  • okcdan
    17 years ago

    "Posted by terryb (My Page) on Wed, Feb 28, 07 at 15:17
    Bermuda Grass = Weeds from Africa just water deep for the Weeds"

    terryb - nothing useful, constructive or helpful for the original poster?

    Posts like that show other members what you're about & will earn you commensurate lack of respect.

  • mes08
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Thanks okcdan - that is helpful - I have a few feed stores around my area. One quick question - when applying as fertilizer, my assumption is I must water it immediatly afterwards - is this a safe assumption? Thanks again.

  • okcdan
    17 years ago

    "I must water it immediately afterwards?"

    Well, no, not necessarily. I attempt to apply the soybean meal when there's some rain in the forecast though. It really doesn't hurt anything if it sits a few days. One exception in my opinion is the alfalfa pellets. It's really best to water those in....when you water em, they sorta melt, breakdown some & go right to the soil & that gives a good start to the decomposition process.

    There may be some differing opinions, but that's my 2 cents

    Good day, Dan

  • terryb
    17 years ago

    Truth is Truth it is an invasive weed. Some just can't live with the truth!!!

  • bpgreen
    17 years ago

    Terryb, do you limit your lawns to grasses like buffalograss, blue grama, and streambank wheatgrass?

    Nearly all of the grasses used as turf grass in the US are non native. Native grasses are used for lawns on a limited basis, but usually, if they're planted, they're planted as ornamentals.

  • okcdan
    17 years ago

    mes08

    Please accept my apologies, as it is my sincere desire when I post to this or any thread in this GardenWeb forum (or any forum) to add to the thread by offering something which is helpful, constructive and/or useful to the original poster who asked a question, for which my experience may be of some assistance.

    Having said that, I feel awful that terryb continues to make posts which are not only not on topic, but typically are inaccurate.

    terryb - I know you'll see this post. I've seen you're posts in this thread and others. I'd strongly suggest you learn the rules of the GardenWeb website, since you agreed to abide by these rules by signing up.

    Here's just a little excerpt:

    Terms of Service
    -Any use by you of any other member(s) or site visitor(s) information, personal or otherwise, for any purpose, commercial or otherwise, or to obtain direct financial gain (e.g. mass marketing) is prohibited. Any such use shall be deemed to be a violation of these Terms of Service. The GardenWeb Network is to be used by you for your personal use only. Commercial uses of the GardenWeb Network are strictly prohibited unless prior written consent from iVillage has been granted.

    -You agree not to send via the GardenWeb Network or post on forums or any other place on the GardenWeb Network any message or material of any kind or nature that is unlawful, harassing, libelous, defamatory, abusive, threatening, harmful, vulgar, obscene, profane, sexually oriented, racially offensive, inaccurate or otherwise objectionable material...


    I suppose you can choose to ignore the rules, but I don't suspect it will take very long & we won't be seeing any posts from you in the future.

    Good day, Dan


    Here is a link that might be useful: GardenWeb Terms of Service

  • gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
    17 years ago

    jeannie, I know you are trying to be helpful, but your posts here and on the Soils and Organic Gardening forums indicate an amazing lack of insight and understanding of soil chemistry and organic methods. I think you need to do some serious research before you do much more posting and continue to shoot yourself in the foot.

    First, a 20-27-5 starter formulation is not going to be organic so why would you recommend such on an organic lawncare forum?

    Second, the OP lives in Philadelphia, so it is reasonable to assume his lawn is comprised of some sort of cool season grass. October is too late to get effective germination for fall overseeding and even April is a bit early for spring. Cool season turf grass seeds need sufficiently warm soil temps to germinate ~ 50F. If these temps are not present, the seed will either rot from excess moisture (snow cover/winter or early spring rains) or get eaten by birds before any germination can occur.

    mes, check with your county extension office for the best time for spring seeding. My guess is that the beginning of April is still a bit early - I know it is for my area and I'm in zone 8, PNW. No sense in wasting seed if it's not going to offer optimum germination.

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