Hi Larry. Clover actually makes a very plush looking lawn for those who don't mind bees coming to the white flowers. But yes, the organic fertilizers provide protein to the soil microbes. The soil microbes process that protein through 30,000 species of critters. In the end they produce plant food that is perfect for your grass. But it takes pounds per 1,000 square feet, not ounces.

As you have probably read, 10-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet is the app rate for just about all organic grain type fertilizers. For a preemergent effect you get more effect (according to the University of Iowa who did this research) when you apply more CGM. They seem to indicate that 40 pounds per year per 1,000 square feet gives you the best control. I would apply that in at LEAST two apps. Even 15 pounds of CGM will stink if it goes down, gets wet, and stays wet for a week. When I say stink, you probably have not smelled anything like it before. Try putting some corn meal in a class of water and setting it aside for a week. That's the smell I'm talking about. It is VERY sour smelling. So with that in mind, I would not use more than 15 pounds at one time. Then you can come back in a month or so and do more. If you do it like that you will not need any other fertilizer until fall. If you can find CGM in plain brown bags you will save considerably over the stuff in bags marked for lawns. The plain brown bags are used as cattle feed and do not pay the license fee to the University of Iowa for preemergence control. Check with your local feed stores for plain brown bags. If you buy enough they may order it for you.

OK, so 2 apps of CGM now (the forsythia just started blooming yesterday) then nothing else until the fall. What do I put down then? Looks like I should look for soybean meal or alfalfa meal is that correct? Then water infrequently and deeply and mow high, is that it?

Spreading some kind of organic "fertilzer" without correcting any soil related problems does little good. First you need to look at the soil you are trying to grow this grass in and start working to make it into a good, healthy soil that will grow a strong and healthy lawn. Contact your county office of the University of Connecticut Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done so you know what your soils pH is as well as some of the major nutrients. Then dig in with these simple soil tests,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.
Which can help guide you in getting your soil to the point that it will grow a good, healthy lawn.

Here is a link that might be useful: UCONN CES

Yes I think you are on the right track. It really is simple.

If you decide to get a soil test, my good friends on another forum swear by the $13 test at UMASS. I'm not big on soil tests, but these guys have me intrigued.

Thanks for the help. I cannot find the CGM in bulk, only as Safe n Simple or Jonathan Green. I noticed on one of their websites a statement that you should use CGM in the spring as a pre-emergent and then in the fall to prevent broadleaf weeds. Any thoughts on this? Do you think this will be enough nitrogen to help with the clover and black medic issue?
Thanks again for the help, Larry

Contrary to what many "lawn gurus" might tell you Dutch White Clover is a good plant in your yard. The major lawn chemical compoanies have worked diligently to turn it into a noxious weed because they cannot formulate the poisons they sell so those products will not kill it, therefore it is a "weed" to be eliminated. What this clover does is accumulate Nitrogen from the air and stores it in your soil where it will feed future turf grass growth. Some people claim that you might get stung by a bee if you allow this stuff to grow in your turf. In some 60 plus years of playing and working on turf I have not been and where ever I am and there is the WDC growing and bees are working the blossoms the bees move out of the way before I can step on them.

OK, basic question. I found a feed store that sells the CGM in the plain brown bags. I can get it on Tuesday, so how do I know what to set my spreader on to apply it at the right concentration. I have about 5000 square feet and will be using a drop spreader. I have a broadcast one also but it is in bad shape and the drop spreader is practically new.
Also, after I do this, when do I put down compost, do I wait a few weeks? Thanks again, Larry

When I applied it with a drop spreader I had to calibrate the spreader myself. I measured off 1,000 square feet and put 10 pounds into the spreader. I adjusted the spreader to 1/2 open and spread it only in the marked area. I had only applied just a very little. I opened the spreader all the way and just barely got the entire 10 pounds down. So I left the spreader all the way open and ran it across my entire yard. Knowing the bag had to go on the entire yard to get the correct pounds per 1,000 square feet, I put the rest of the stuff into the spreader and continued spreading until it was gone. It too 2 complete trips with the spreader wide open to get it all out. Once you do it on a small area you can sort of judge how well it's coming out.

CGM needs to be applied at minimum 20 lbs per 1000. If applied twice that's 4 lbs of Nitrogen for the year. The maximum should be 3 lbs total for the year. If you leave the grass clippings on the lawn (as you should) that's an additional 1 lb. Add in any other applications and you're really heavy on the Nitrogen, negating any benifits to the environment. Sure CGM isn't water soluble nitrate like chemicals and is deemed environmentaly safe BUT at that many lbs for the year I hope you don't apply near any aquadic areas. Side note: I agree UMASS does an excelent soil test. Make sure you get the organic matter done also, it's only an additional $5. Healthy Soil = Healthy Plant

Here is a link that might be useful: The Organic Lawn Movie