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Balancing minerals for organic lawn transition

Posted by KathleenMillar none ( on
Sun, Mar 30, 14 at 18:43

Hi All,
I've been really impressed with the quality of info provided on this site and was hoping for some opinions of how to help a client transitioning to organic lawn maintenance. He's been at it for one season and as you can see from the soil test result, was using a lot of dolomitic lime. He's stopped that now and asked me to do an analysis and recommendations for the mineral content and balance in his soil. Based on the Logan lab results here is some advice I've received so far with the intention of being cost conscious:

Just apply amounts for 3", not 6"
In descending order I should address:

Calcium (which is actually sufficient)
Potassium (which is low but this client plans to do a core aeration and an application of compost so K may be available there)
Phosphorus (address with CalPhos application)
Sulfur (address with gypsum or as by product of sulfate applications)
Manganese (apply manganese sulfate at 20lb/ac)
Zinc (apply application limit at zinc sulfate 14 lb/ac)
Cu (address with liquid copper chelate)
Any other suggestions or perhaps a way to streamline and thus decrease the cost? As I said, this client is planning to core aerate and do a compost application when he will also apply mycorrhizal fungi.
Thanks in advance for any help!

Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Balancing minerals for organic lawn transition

Given the numbers I see there is no reason to add anything. There is adequate amounts of organic matter (9.89 %) as well as most everything except P.
For drought protection I would want the soil depth to be 6 inches, not 3.
Why does this soil need aeration? Given the amount of organic matter the Soil Food Web should be keeping that soil well aerated, unless something was done to the soil that killed them off.
Will this person be adding fungi that will work with grasses or trees or flowers? Mycorrhiza, myco = fungus and rhiza - roots, refers more to a mutually beneficial relationship some species of fungi form with plants and different fungi develop that relationship with different plants so the fungi that form a symbiotic relationship with trees will not do so with grasses.
Get the soil into a good healthy condition and the fungi will be there without spending money on "magic elixirs" that most likely are not what you want.

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