The lack of organic matter and the high pH need to be addressed. Did TAMU suggest any way to lower that soil pH?

The only advice they offered is to add 0.4 lb N/1000sqft. We do use a mulching mower so the clippings stay on the lawn. The grass has greened up since I added the alfalfa pellets and looks happier. Should I keep throwing alfalfa on the grass and on what schedule? Any other ideas to reduce the pH?

Thanks!

What is the level of organic matter in your soil?
Applying sulfur is one of the most common ways to lower a soils pH but you need guidance in how much, although i have seen charts that indicate you may need as much as 4 pounds of elemental sulfur per 100 square feet of garden.

I don't know officially, but I would say low according to the jar shake test I did. There was organic matter that settled on top of the clay, but it was a very thin layer. The loam layer also was thin. Would adding more sulfur be a good idea? According to my TAMU test I have 37 ppm and they recommend not adding additional sulfur above 13 ppm. I know I've got to get that pH down at least a few points to unlock all the trace elements.

Thanks for your help.

Loam is a soil type that I did not see when I was in Texas. What you should do is add organic matter. If this is to be a flower or vegetable garden lots of compost and other organic matter and if a lawn plunk down compost, but not more than 1/2 inch at any one time and allow that to be worked in by the soil bacteria.

I have two piles of compost cooking right now. Thanks for the advice!

Where are you located? I just finished working 18 months in Pampa. With the extremely low humidity and wind in mind, how are you watering?

What kind of grass do you have and how high are you mowing it?

Before trying to adjust anything to satisfy the TAMU test, I would concentrate on getting more organic material. Growing grass is the best thing you can do followed by adding organic fertilizer (and stopping the use of chemicals). I would use as much organic material as I could afford on a monthly basis to get the soil microbes fed. You might also spray with molasses at 3 ounces per gallon of water (Ortho dial type hose end sprayer).

Then after a year, have the soil tested again and see if it isn't more in line with "normal" soil. More importantly look at your grass to see if it looks good. If it looks good after a year, then I would dispense with further testing.

We're in Amarillo. I've convinced my husband to lower the watering schedule to twice a week, which is still too much but I'll take what I can get. He's concerned about runoff.
We're mowing on the second highest setting. We've been hand weeding. The yard is looking a lot better, but I still have pale green patches. I put down some cornmeal in July. The alfalfa horse feed did wonders, so I'll go get another bag. I'll try the molasses too.
Thanks.

Runoff is a good reason to be concerned. Try this: water for 10 minutes and stop for 20-30. Let the first short burst soak in and break the "surface tension" of the soil. Then the soil should absorb moisture for a much longer time without runoff.

There's another Amarillian on these forums. Look for rcnaylor.