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rob_r_gw

Want to go organic - when is best time to start?

rob_r
14 years ago

I want to transition to complete organic lawn care, currently "semi-organic". I used a pre-emergant, weed n feed, and milorganite so far this year.

I went to almost 100% organic rose gardening this year - mainly because last year my son thought the extended-release fertilizer granules were candy and ate a few. However, the results have been great, my roses have never looked better! (Even better I haven't had to call poison control yet this year). So for my kids sake I would like to start organic lawn care as well.

I have not yet tried using feed grains on the lawn. Is there a good time to start - spring, fall, now? Does it really matter? Also, what would be best to start with - soybean meal, alfalfa, corn meal or something else? I would appreciate any tips.

Also I plan to dethatch and overseed in late summer/early fall (thought I read that corn acts as a preemergant).

I am in SE Michigan, zone 5.

Thanks!

Comment (1)

  • Kimmsr
    14 years ago

    Now is the best time to start an organic lawn care program. Water properly and mulch mow as high as you can, since the more grass blade you leave exposed to the sun the more nutrients that leaf can manufacture to feed the crown where more grass will grow producing a thick turf that will aid in suppressing "weed" growth. Contact your county office of the Michigan State University USDA Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done so you know what your soils pH and nutrient levels are and what might need to be done to correct any deficiencies and dig in with these simple soil tests,
    1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

    2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

    3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

    4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

    5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.
    to see what else you might need do to make that soil into a good, healthy soil that will grow a good, healthy turf for you.
    Keep in mind that making the transition from "conventional' to organic is not simply switching which "fertilizers" you use.

    Here is a link that might be useful: MSU CES

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