For a good utility lawn K31 tall fescue is hardy, takes wear well, and relatively inexpensive. Should mix well with white or red clover. Also probably mixes with the common bermuda that will creep in over time. Seed at about 10#/1000.

A better lawn would be turf type tall fescue (TTTF) plain or mixed with kentucky bluegrass and no clover. This will be more attractive, but require more fertilizer and water input.

Full KBG or turf type perennial rye can be grown in your area with the right inputs. So can bermuda and zoysia.

There are many choices, what did you want your lawn to look like and how much are you willing to work on it?

I'm looking for something that will look decent with minimal input. Probably little to no supplemental water (other than the first 2 months or so), fertilizer and weed control 2-3 times per year and mowing once a week. I'm ok if it isn't perfect, I'm more of a cottage gardener, so I'm really looking for something to set off my flower and shrub beds, not for the lawn to be the focal point. I do like the cool season grasses because I have lots of spring blooming plants and it is so pretty to have the grass green at that time of year.
I grew up with wide blade St. Augustine, so my feel good memories from childhood are of walking barefoot on that spongy grass- not your typical "ideal" for a lawn.

I do have a kid and a dog, but the kid likes to play in the woods and the dog is a couch potato, so I'm not overly concerned about wear and tear.

Thanks for the above tips. I think most people around here have TTTF, which is very pretty and I have had it in the past. I'm just exploring other options to see if a mix would be lower maintenance.

The best place to find out about which grass species will do best in your area is your local office of the North Carolina State University USDA Cooperative Extension Service. Talking with many people that live in North Carloina tells me that just where you live determines which grass grows best.
At the same time ask about having a good, reliable soil test done to determine what your soil might need to grow that grass and dig in with these simple soil tests to get to know your soil better,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.
and to help guide you in making that soil into a good, healthy soil that will grow a good, healthy turf.

Here is a link that might be useful: NCSU CES