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kime_2008

Another Organic Lawn Program Question

kime_2008
15 years ago

First off, let me say that over the last two years, I have been reading this site and pretty much any question I have had in regard to lawn care I have been able to answer.

I am currently using chemical treatments and due to costs and my newborn child, I want to switch to a more natural fertilizing program. Now I have read as much as I can on this site and many others (I won't list them since I think posting sites is against the rules) including the FAQs for Organic Lawn Care.

Let me lay out everything. First off, we just purchased this house about 1.5 years ago the people before it did not take care of the lawn or anything else for that matter - they were there around 4 years. I started a chemical lawn care through TruGreen and I have used 4 of the five applications but canceled before the last (Weed and feed, Pre-emerge, fertilizer/grub control, summerguard). The last application was on August 1.

I am in zone 5A in NE Ohio. I have a mixture of around 40% KBG, 40% Red Fescue, and 20% Perennial Ryegrass. My neighbor, who works for TruGreen actually installed the lawn like many others in our neighborhood back in the 70s. Everybody's yard is taken care of in the neighborhood and mine is no exception. I had my yard limed and areated in the fall of 07. Over the winter I dormant seeded a fence line (I ripped out a chain fence that had nothing but dead grass and weeds) with great success. Seeded in February and applied starter once the temperature got consistently above 50 degrees. Which I think was in late march. All full beautiful grass with some crabgrass. Per my request, they skipped this area when applying pre-m.

I have a feed and supply store here in town that will get me everything I need. I want to do 5 apps and I figured it would be easiest to stick with the recommendations of going by the holidays. I was thinking of dormant seeding some thinning areas and the read thread area (in nearly full shade for most of the day under two trees) during the winter again and let the snow compress it and let mother nature water it again

Here is my organic program plan for 2009 (my lawn is about 4,000 square feet):

By April 1st - Corn Gluten Meal ($21 per 50 pounds - applying 20 pounds/1000)

Memorial Day - Soybean Meal ($12.50 per 50 - at 12.5 pounds per 1000 - I figured I would just use the entire 50 lbs bag on my yard since you can't really over apply)

4th - Corn Meal ($8 per 50 - at 12 pounds per 1000)

Labor Day - Corn Gluten Meal (20 pounds per 1000)

Thanksgiving - Alfalfa Meal ($11 per 50 pounds - 12 pounds per 1000)

I will use milky spore for the grub control, I think that can be applied anytime during the spring, summer or fall). I will also hand pull any weeds. I have some weeds but not very many in my yard and a little crab grass. TruGreen laid it late since they wanted to hit it with a heavy fertilizer first since it hadn't been treated in awhile. I understand the best thing I can do is by watering it heavy and infrequently and keeping my mower set at the highest setting . I also understand to be patient when going organic as it can take a couple of years to build the soil.

Sorry to be so verbose but I wanted to lay everything out for you. Here are my questions.

1. Does the plan look sound or should I replace anything - I don't mind applying stuff 5 times a year? I know some say just get the cheapest as any grains will work and some say use a variety. I chose the variety. Plus I included corn meal since my neighbor said the couple of dying spots were from read thread. I thought it was grub related originally. But those spots are starting to come back in.

2. My mower does not have a mulching blade, should I continue to leave my grass clippings on the ground and can I mow my leaves in the fall.

3. I have a scotts deluxe edgeguard, and I see most of the recommended settings are around 11-13 for 10 pounds per 1000. Does anyone have any experience with this spreader (i know it can vary a little depending upon the consistency of the meal)?

4. What should I do this now? I am think of spreading some compost and then some soybean meal in the next week or two and maybe another application of alfalfa meal around Thanksgiving.

5. Do I need to spread compost since I see some say recycling grass clippings and leaves works as well?

6. Not really a question, but I am assuming anything I can apply to my yard I can throw in my mulch beds for my shrub, perennials, and annuals to give them the optimal results).

Any other thoughts? Thanks in advance for you input.

Comments (9)

  • Kimmsr
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    What does a good, reliable soil test say about your soils pH and the level of nutrients?
    What is the level of organic matter in your soil?
    The link below is an article on natural lawn care from your
    Ohio State University.

    Here is a link that might be useful: OSU on Natural lawn care

  • billhill
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hello Kime. First of all, welcome to the Lawncare forum. Although I rarely post here anymore, your enthusiasm and desire for a nice eco-friendly lawn cries out for answers to your thoughtful questions. It appears that you have done some research, gained knowledge and experience, and probably have a pretty descent lawn right now. I will proceed from that assumption giving opinion based on my experience with a similar lawn in similar soil and climate. No doubt, you will receive conflicting opinions and will have to decide for yourself what may work best for you. To begin with, your plan for 2009 is good but needs a little tweaking to optimize it for the first year. Lets start from todays date. You will want to start preparing you lawn for Winter dormancy. On your lawn spread 50 # of soybean meal. Start with your spreader ¾ wide open. You may have to open it up all the way. If you spell any, then clean it up. You donÂt want any piles of it on your lawn as it may leave a dead spot. This is a light application but you should see results in 3 or 4 weeks as the soil temperatures are good for microbial decomposition of grains. Repeat this process again October 15th. Always leave lawn clippings on your lawn with your side discharge mower. Mow all your Autumn leaves into your lawn even if you have to rake them into rows in remote areas of you lawn. A good soil requires lots of organic material. Do not throw your leaves away. Thanksgiving  forget alfalfa meal or pellets, itÂs too cold for quick breakdown of organic material. Instead use urea (the only deviation from a purely organic fertilizer program) 45-0-0 at the rate of 2 # per 1000 sq ft. This will encourage root growth and nutrient storage and provide a great green-up and initial Spring feeding without excessive top growth. Urea, as you probably know naturally occurs in urine and nothing could be more "natural" than that. That 8 or 10 lbs of urea could be diluted with 20 lbs of SBM as a filler to enable an even distribution. At this point, your lawncare is done for the year. April 1  Corn meal or cracked corn  low in protein (nitrogen) but encourages beneficial fungus to aid in lawn disease. CGM is good, but do not expect any pre-emergent herbicide qualities from one dose as it takes time and more quantity to build up in your soil to be effective as a pre-M. May 15  Soy bean meal- the first real feeding of the season, takes 3 to 4 weeks to become effective. July 1 Alfalfa pellets  low nitrogen but high in micronutrients. August 1  corn meal. September 1  SBM - October 15 SBM and youÂre done for the year. This post is getting long so IÂll move it along and just say that compost is really really good but optional. You can spread your grains everywhere including gardens, beds and shrubs. Grub control? You probably donÂt need it unless you have a severe infestation. A healthy lawn can support a large and diverse insect population which will become balanced between predators and prey. Up to 10 grubs per sq. ft. is acceptable.

    Bill Hill

  • soccer_dad
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I think your plan and BH's advice is very good. My only contribution would be that if you can get a mulching blade for your mower it would be better than discharge. Much better for mulching leaves and clippings.

  • kime_2008
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks kimmr for the link. I have looked over that quite often in my research.

    Also, thanks soccer dad...I will go to Lowes and get the $13 mulching blade for my mower.

    And Billhill...thanks so much for taking the time to post all of this. Many of the posts I have read while researching in this forum have been from you. This is exactly what I needed. No problem with being wordy, you are just like me, I like to explain every little detail and I certainly appreciate you explaining every little detail to me.

    I am assuming all your recommendations are for one 50lb bag with each application (4,000sf).

    Any other recommendations aside for urea for winter application...maybe blood meal since it has a higher nitrogen analysis?

    I am assuming that you don't feel another grain application around Thanksgiving for the 09 plan is needed since you stop in mid Oct.

    Here is my new revised plan (all 50 pound bags per app so it will be roughly 10-12 pounds per 1000):

    Tomorrow: SBM
    October 15: SBM (Maybe Corn Gluten 20lbs/1000)
    Thanksgiving: Blood Meal?

    2009
    April 1: Corn meal or Cracked Corn (Maybe Corn Gluten 20lbs/1000)
    May 15: SBM
    July 1: Alfalfa Meal
    August 1: Corn Meal
    September 1: SBM
    October 15: SBM (Maybe Corn Gluten 20lbs/1000)
    Thanksgiving: Blood Meal?

    Also, I see the research on corn gluten but I am not sure it is worth the money or not. I may or may not try this in the spring. I do realize that this could take a few years to build up in my soil. I also know most recommendations are for 20-40 pounds per 1,000.

    Let me know any last thoughts from anyone and definitely from you Bill! Thanks a bunch!

    Jerry

  • billhill
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks Jerry for responding. Yes, except for urea, each recommendation was for 50 # spread across your 4000 sq. ft. I have no experience with blood meal but my concern would be that it may stink, get all over your shoes and clothes as you apply it and may leave an unpleasant residue to be tracked around until it decomposes. The use of urea in the fall is controversial in an organic program and if you dont choose to use it, then just put down 75# SBM on your 4000 sq. ft. Sep 1 and Oct 15 EACH YEAR. Remember, with organics, nothing is wasted. Your soil will just hold the nutrients until needed by the plants. I prefer corn meal (or cracked corn) in the early Spring because the nitrogen requirement is put down in the Fall, and I want to get the Tricoderma fungus to be healthy ASAP in the season. You can substitute CGM for SBM at any time. Its a little more costly but the protein content is higher and it fertilizes really well. I dont use any CGM. And my lawn is so thick that crabgrass cannot get a foothold. I only hand pull a few plants growing along the curb and driveway edge. One additional word of advice would be to keep reading and posting here. By next year, you will be the expert giving out advice based on your knowledge and experience. Good luck with your lawn and gardens.
    Bill Hill

  • kime_2008
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks a bunch Bill. It is greatly appreciated...and yes, I will continue to read and learn. Take care!

    Jerry

  • whip1 Zone 5 NE Ohio
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Kime, where are you getting CGM for that price? The cheapest I've found is almost double that.

  • kime_2008
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Schott Feed and Supply in Alliance, Ohio.

  • whip1 Zone 5 NE Ohio
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks! That's not too far away.

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