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rutgers1_gw

Annual Organic Lawn Care Program

rutgers1
16 years ago

I just read the Organic Lawn Care FAQ and read with interest that the author says to apply grains only 2x a year. Part of me likes the idea of only having to pay for the grains 2x a year, but the part of me that enjoys toiling on the lawn wouldn't mind a few more application.

Regardless, aside from telling people to use grains, I haven't seen anyone really outline programs for the seasons, or talk about which grains are best for which grasses, climates, or seasons. In fact, maybe there is no such thing, or perhaps no one has studied it enough to be able to say which is best.

I've gotten a few things:

- corn gluten meal has a lot of protein, as does soy bean meal

- alfalfa is a more complete fertilizer, but not as high in protein

- compost can add some microbes into the soil...as can compost tea

- Milorganite seems like a magic fertilizer to some....and something to stay away from to others

- mow high, water infrequently

So far, first year in, I am on the right path - though admittedly I have probably overdone it by a mile. I've applied some corn gluten meal, soy bean meal and Milorganite this year, and my mowing is higher than ever. My compost tea is brewing. I haven't been as good at limiting my watering, but I will get around to that. Overall, my lawn looks good. I can't say it is the best the in the neighborhood yet, as I still have some bear spots to fill and my rye/fescue/Kbg mix is not as nice as a mono stand in my opinion, but it looks great from the street.

So what is YOUR annual program?

Comments (20)

  • fescue_planter
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I started an organic lawncare plan in June as a means of curing my soil's inability to absorb moisture and build it's organic material level. I have about 8K sqft lawn that is considered "lawn" composed of RTF Tall Fescue and about another 2K-2500 sqft of moderately sloped hill that I have installed seedless "legacy" buffalograss plugs.

    The buffalograss (installed August '05) is great and really doesn't require any maintenance since you don't need to water it and as it fills in it sqeezes out sunlight for weeds to get through. It's also the softest grass I've ever walked on once it reaches its full height of about 5". I plan on giving it a shot of soybean meal twice a year just to build up its organic material level and help keep it green during it's growing season.

    The RTF Fescue (installed sod spring '05) can look downright awesome under the right conditions. I have never seen KBG (basically the only other real lawn grass variety that works here) get as dark of shade of green as it can (4 weeks post soybean app). It is rhizomatous but at far slower rate than KBG from what I have observed. It is very good in the shade and I like the fact that its roots progress many times deeper than KBG. Approximately 3K sqft of my RTF lawn in the back was developed from seed (not sod).

    After a pre-emergent application of scotts fertilizer in the spring and a nasty spell of drought mid May-mid July and seeing how wretched and burned my lawn looked I had to find help for it. I also needed to find an answer to a big question that I always had floating around: How can you build up black/organic dirt after starting from bare clay just by adding a chemical fertiizer and mulch mowing? It still makes me wonder what my lawn/soil would look like (though this HAS to be common) in five years if I only applied chem fertz and bagged my clippings. So on my own, I got some milorganite since I had known people had used this for about a century and love it. I dumped 4 bags (160lbs) with my broadcast spreader.

    Then I stumbled upon this site and read about how I should pay attention to my grass through my soil, which I was interested in doing in the first place. Dark black dirt is my goal as it sucks in water and is home to my best friends, the earthworms. So then I got some soybean meal and applied it while hitting the lawn with a weekly dose of compost tea. A month later I dumped an app of alfalfa on it. Then soybean again and then another batch of alfalfa (a week ago). The applications were only a month apart but I still am focusing on the soil and not solely on the grass. Of course my lawn is now of the darkest green in the neighborhood so I can't ignore that. Hopefully next year I will start to see some evidence of soil darkening in the clay areas that were seeded.

    I'm done for the year with the grains, and some might say I'm overdoing it, but I'm just trying to get as much organic material into the dirt as I can. Next year I plan on following a schedule of five grain applications evenly spaced through the growing season. I'll start it off with a corn meal batch (not gluten, I'll pull the weeds myself if they come through) to spur some trichoderma fungal development. Then an application of alfalfa. Then maybe some milorganite, or even another shot of corn meal since it is not a big nitrogen dose in the summer heat. Then I'll get it with the soybean meal (early fall activation) and end it off with another dose of alfalfa. All the while probably giving it a monthly compost tea dose. That's probably my schedule for next year, my lawn has taken a complete 180 since June which probably has a lot to do with timely rainfall even though I'm on an irrigation system. What will be interesting for me to see yet this year is how far into the fall the green in my lawn holds. Maybe if anyone wants to see I can post a few before/after photos.

  • katdog_turf
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    fescue_planter, YES! Please post pictures. I just started this year going organic and am interested in hearing other's plans with their organic care programs. Started composting and using soy bean meal/cracked corn/milorganite. My friends said my grass turned greener due to the overseeding/water, but I cannot think how the organic approach is contributing to how the grass looks now.

  • grayentropy
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Rutgers,

    I post my annual organic lawn care program all the time.

    Zone 5b Grafton MA, KBG/red fescue blend

    Early and later April: Cornmeal at 10lbs/1000 ft^2. Water in with 3 oz milk/gallon/1000ft^2 for fungal control.

    Late July and mid August: Alfalfa at 10 lbs/1000 ft^2.

    Early September and Late September: Soybean at 10 lbs/1000 ft^2.

    Add homegrown compost as available to weak portions of the lawn. Spread cornmeal and milk as needed to combat/prevent any fungus.

    Mulch mow everything orgainic.

    Experimenting with water but in general water deeply and infrequently during root growth stages. I will be watering more than 1"/week next summer.

    Handpull weeds.

  • dchall_san_antonio
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Dadgum! That's a heckofa program, Fescue Planter. I'm not complaining, it's just the hardly anyone has thought out their program that completely.

    katdog turf: Your green grass is definitely due to the organics. Water does not green things up unless it was brown. By adding real food to your soil, the microbes turn around and create plant food. This is Nature's way.

    As I am the author of the aging FAQ, you can get it first hand what I'm doing now. I apply on the major federal holidays. Beginning with President's Day, Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. Why? Because the dates are very easy to remember that way. It seems to work very well for me.

    I've been reading the forums here for 5 years and have had many discussions. What I think I have learned is that the most important thing you can do for your turf is water deeply and infrequently. The person able to convince me and explain it was a professional turf manager from Phoenix. It was his experience that frequent shallow watering was counterproductive. He said he would refuse to take on clients who would not turn over watering to him. Then he convinced me (and I was not going easy on this) that mowing high was second to watering as the most important tool he used. Only lastly was fertilizing. At this he and I agreed that both organic and chemical fertilizer could make a pretty good lawn IF you followed the first two rules. And this if you followed the first two, your choice of fertilizer was of very little importance and only necessary for a greening effect. Well in the case of organic fertilizer, it is necessary for soil health.

  • fescue_planter
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    OK here you go, remember we had very little rain when these pictures were taken:

    June 23: http://img489.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00043wb8.jpg
    http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/4440/dsc00046wg5.jpg
    http://img216.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00047ux3.jpg

    And recently:
    Sept 9:
    http://img222.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00113wl2.jpg
    http://img489.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00111vq6.jpg

    You can make the buffalograss on the upslope in the background of the last one. You can also make out the neighbor's bluegrass in the second to last shot, but he does 3 things noticeably wrong: buzzcuts it too short after letting it grow to maybe 4", lawnmower blade is very dull as the blades are ripped instead of cut, and he bags his clippings. I still have some spots in the back that need filling in, it will take the RTF a little bit of time to do that but it has definitely been making progress the past few months. Now is the time of the year to get some good root growth.

  • bpgreen
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    "As I am the author of the aging FAQ, you can get it first hand what I'm doing now. I apply on the major federal holidays. Beginning with President's Day, Memorial Day, 4th of July, Labor Day, and Thanksgiving. Why? Because the dates are very easy to remember that way. It seems to work very well for me."

    I know I'm too anal, but every time I see your list of federal holidays, I wonder where it comes from.

    On the federal holiday schedule, there's no President's (or Presidents' or Presidents) day. The federal holiday is Washington's Birthday. Lincoln's Birthday was never a federal holiday and the two weren't combined into one (contrary to popular belief).

    Technically, there's no 4th of July (it's Independence Day). And you skipped Columbus day and Veterans Day.

    The schedule corresponds more closely to the stock market's holiday schedule (with the exception of Good Friday).

    2007 Federal Holiday Schedule

    Wall Street Holiday Schedule

  • katdog_turf
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    fescue_planter, Thanks for the pics. My yard looked similar (without the dirt spots) as well in June/July and I said enough! Then started a similar approach such as yours and started putting down the grains (soybean meal, alfalfa, etc). In addition, I overseeded with elite KBG and my grass has never looked as green as it does now. Am also looking forward to next year to see the change in my yard.

    dchall_san_antonio, Thanks for reminding us about the way we water as well. I am also going to focus on infrequent/deep watering next year as well.

  • dchall_san_antonio
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I know I'm too anal, but every time I see your list of federal holidays, I wonder where it comes from.
    On the federal holiday schedule, there's no President's (or Presidents' or Presidents) day. The federal holiday is Washington's Birthday. Lincoln's Birthday was never a federal holiday and the two weren't combined into one (contrary to popular belief).
    Technically, there's no 4th of July (it's Independence Day). And you skipped Columbus day and Veterans Day.
    The schedule corresponds more closely to the stock market's holiday schedule (with the exception of Good Friday).

    This is hilarious (to me, anyway)! I used to trade stocks for a living and it was during that period of time that I came up with the so called Federal Holiday Plan. On my days off from the stock market, I worked on my lawn. Now you have the rest of the story.

    If you have another way of remembering those days, I'm all ears (or eyes). The term just seemed to help me remember when to fertilize. "My" days are usually school holidays, too, unlike the other federal holidays that I left off.

    On "Presidents Day," there is more than enough confusion to go around on that term. I'm changing to Washington's Birthday from now on. If you don't know when that date is, you should. I never knew the official term was not changed. I was in the Air Force when that name change was proposed. We grudgingly took the proposed name change and ran with it. Thanks for clearing that up.

  • bpgreen
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm glad you took it in the way it was intended. I meant to be funny. Until recently, I thought the federal holiday was Presidents' day, too.

    Do you know on what date George Washington was born?

    I thought it was February 22, but he was actually born on February 11, 1731. Britain and its colonies used the Julian calendar until 1752, at which point there was a shift of 11 days and January became the first month instead of March. After that change, Washington's Birthday became Feb 22, 1732.

  • skoot_cat
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    We get the point.

  • skoot_cat
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have St.Augustine Floratam which I have maintained organically for 3 years now. Its a warm season grass which actively grows in summer. In winter I may only mow once a month. Im not sure how this plan will work for cool season grasses.

    In spring I'll put down alfafa @ 25lbs and SBM @ 12lbs per 1000. Late spring/early summer SBM @ 15-20lbs per 1000. Summer Alfalfa and SBM @ 15-20lbs per 1000. Fall Corn Meal or Cracked Corn @ 20lbs per 1000 and Sulfate of Potash @ 1-2lbs per 1000. I throw Used Coffee ground about every couple months or so (whenever I remember). I also use soluble seaweed powder during the growing season in the evening. It turns the grass dark green by the next day. But, I might discontinue as it takes so long to apply using a 1 gallon pump sprayer.

    As I've said before, I still feel the most Important approach to Organic Lawn Care is:

    1. Mulch Mow at the highest recommended height for your grass type.

    2. Always use a sharp balanced blade.

    3. Mow often.

    4. Water deeply 3/4-1" and infrequently, or when 30-50% of your grass shows signs of stress/wilting. (Example: Once or Twice a week in summer, and whenever the lawn needs it in winter.)

    5. Only water in the early morning hours. After 2am.

  • eastpenna
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow, you guys have some very well thought out plans! I'm glad that you are willing to share them.

    rutgers1,
    Great post as I will be going organic next spring and was going to ask something very similar to this at that time. I sure hope this gets bumped back to the top then.

    fescue planter,
    some might say I'm overdoing it, but I'm just trying to get as much organic material into the dirt as I can.

    I was thinking that the first year I would probably "overdue" it as well, once a month with fertilizer and then spray some compost tea. Anyone have thoughts on this, good, bad, doesn't much matter? Of coarse I always mow high (with a sharp blade) and water deep and infrequent.

    skoot cat,
    I also use soluble seaweed powder during the growing season in the evening. It turns the grass dark green by the next day. But, I might discontinue as it takes so long to apply using a 1 gallon pump sprayer.

    No Kidding, the next day? Have you ever tried a backpack sprayer? The reason I ask is that I just picked one up to spray the compost tea, I used the (flat nozzle) that it came with, and I will say it sprays much better and faster, than my hand held 1.5 gallon. If this seaweed powder works this well it might just be worth looking into getting one.

  • rutgers1
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This upcoming year, I am probably going to overdo it again based on my excitement and desire to try different things. However, here is my tentative plan:

    March: I am going to get soil tests in two places:
    1) where my grass is going great
    2) the two spots where the grass is shaky

    April 1: I am going with a chemical preemergent. I just feel like I have to break the weed cycle for a year to give the grass a chance to fill in. I will also drop some corn meal gluten at that time. I will spray my first round of compost tea.

    May 1: I am going to go with some corn meal, not corn meal gluten, since I have had some fungus problems. I will continue with a light spray of compost tea. I am obsessed with getting the right bacteria/fungi situation going on my lawn - hence the compost tea and corn meal.

    June 1: Once again, I am going with a light sprinkling of corn meal as well as some compost tea.

    August 15: Alfalfa

    September 1: Compost, Overseed, Milorganite.

    October 1: Milorganite or soy bean meal, along with some compost tea.

    November 15: Cockadoodledoodoo chicken fertilizer.

    As you can see, I am going with a few different things because not only do I find this all fun, but also I am not sure what will - or won't - work. Here are my reasons:
    1) corn meal gluten: They say it takes a couple years before it truly works. So, while I am working it into the soil, I am going to give it one last shot of synthetic preemergent.
    2) corn meal: I have a hunch that I have some fungus issues.
    3) Alfalfa: I am doing this for the phosphorus that will be needed two weeks later for the overseeding.
    4) Milorganite: I like Milorganite. I have liked the results thus far.
    5) Cockadoodledoodoo: My uncle uses it, and his house is the first in his neighborhood to green up. Also, the organic company that services my neighborhood uses something like it exclusively (all applications), and their lawns are always as green as the chemically treated ones.

  • okcdan
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    At the first sign of green-up in spring:

    I scalp and dethatch, spread alfalfa pellets @ 25lbs/1000sqft,

    Then 2 weeks later I begin using soybean meal, at 15lbs/1000sqft; and apply every 4 weeks throughout the growing season until dormancy in November.

    That's my annual organic fertilization plan and has worked very well the last 2 years.

    Of course, I water deeply & infrequently, 1-1/2" to 2" of irrigation twice a month (if mother nature doesn't help) and I mow frequently @ .0625" every 3rd day.

    Good day, Dan

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Another plan for you! I started with new construction soil, the red clay kind that has about 0.1% organics, no worms, and no fertility. I'm ending my second year of organic inputs, and ending the first year of exclusively (and frequent) organic input.

    The soil is much more fertile, softer, and I have worm holes and castings every three to four inches at least (in some cases, they seem to pack in every inch or two).

    April-ish: When the weather starts to warm above 55 during the day. Alfalfa, 20 lbs/K sq ft.

    Monthly thereafter: Alternating Milorganite and soybean meal until temperatures cool back under 55 degree high temperatures--that's usually late October to early November.

    End of November or early December: One single shot of Winterizer.

    This year, the quantity of organics is around 100 lbs per thousand square feet total--about six and a half pounds of available nitrogen. Since I replaced the lawn this year, that's getting used.

    Next year, I look to drop back to 80 lbs, or just under 5 lbs of available nitrogen. The year after, about the same.

  • billhill
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Morpheus, I like your program. I intend to do the same except with reduced quantities of fertilizers and augment my program with screened compost. I have decided to go "CHEM FREE" next year. Bill Hill

  • lemonpeels
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This may be a silly question..but Morpheuspa..what do you mean by a single shot of winterizer??

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This may be a silly question..but Morpheuspa..what do you mean by a single shot of winterizer??

    One single application at the recommended rate. I tend to use Name Brand winterizer because it's easy to get, but really the no name or store brand would be cheaper and just as good.

    It's the one time of the year I break the organic rule and use a synthetic because it's too cold at that time for the organics to work that well.

    I have decided to go "CHEM FREE" next year

    Eh, well, I'm not synthetic free, and I do use the occasional herbicide on weeds. There are rules, though--it has to be a patch of weeds, I only ever spot treat, and if I think I can get it out with the Weed Hound, I try that first.

    Compared to four-step program users, I'm putting down a hundredth the pesticides and my lawn looks four times better...

  • rutgers1
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Morpheus...I am in your boat. I am hoping to drop my chemical dependence down to NEAR zero, but I am not against a little bit of chemical help here and there. I keep waffling on the final application of the year, though. My bigger pull is to use a chemical preemergent in the spring.

    It is just a hunch, but I think you would find similar early greenup if you use cockadoodledoo or some other chicken sh*t fertilizer in the late fall. A few of the homes in my neighborhood that use it exclusively have their problems, but one problem they don't have is early green-up.

  • morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    It is just a hunch, but I think you would find similar early greenup if you use cockadoodledoo or some other chicken sh*t fertilizer in the late fall.

    Three dogs. I already have an issue with them nibbling on the soy and sniffing (but never eating) the Milorganite. Now if the whole lawn smells like the back end of a chicken I may NEVER get 'em back inside. :-)

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