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Bhut Jolokia Best Growing Conditions Thread 2

habjolokia z 6b/7
12 years ago

Reposting your question on new thread the old thred has reached its 150 limit http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/pepper/msg010108437206.html?150

Posted by marclocas (My Page) on Sun, Mar 18, 12 at 12:39

I bought today some liquid fertilizer (plant food) : 10=10-10 Nitrogen - phosphoric acid - soluble potash. Sounds any good?

Comments (118)

  • peppernovice
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks guys! I love this place.

  • jsschrstrcks
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Dar - if that offer still stands, I'll say this was not "heated" at all... Would love to have some pods to munch on while mine are still growing...

    Peppernovice: I can't speak for everywhere... But here in Sunny FL, from experience, I can tell you if I were to put a seedling, and a hook outside, they would be killed, or badly injured by the sun/wind/weather in general. There is a whole process called hardening off, where you take them outside for increasing intervals...

    I have been able to avoid much of that hassle by putting my growing opperation in the garage, in a south facing window... They get a lot of sun, and have a shop light to extend the day a bit. There is also a fan that forces them to strengthen their stems a bit... It is on a timer with a fan. A buddy of mine on another forum is running an experiment where he varies the amount of light: 1 week 16hrs (current best practice), 1 week 14hrs, and 1 week 12hrs. He was doing a time lapse photography shoot of his growing plants, and noticed that around the 12 hr mark whether the plants quit responding to the sun and showed a bit of wilt... He is one of those that has a biotec lab in his basement, and has spared no expense tricking out his setup with the ideal stuff... So he's going to see if that additional 4 hours causes additional growth, or not... He plans to measure them for width and height, and diameter at the start and conclusion of each week of his experiment, and document all of it in time lapse... Exciting stuff :).

    Bhuts IIRC have a tendency to plateau as well... They grow for a while, and pause, then grow for a while, and then pause again. Mine are in the ground, and are about 8 inches tall IIRC. They have been 8 inches tall for two weeks. I gave them some bone meal fert two days ago before the rain, so we'll see if they take off again... But the soil they are in is 2:2:1:1 peat:composted black cow:coarse vermiculite:original soil... I brought in hundreds of lbs of black cow.... Tilled it all together... Seems to work well. Last year my peppers were more or less in composted black cow. As a matter of fact, they were all in 4" of composted black cow, on top of a painters drop cloth, on top of the ground... I almost never watered, though after one particularly heavy rain I had to take a pitch fork, and punch holes through the plastic. That was before I knew anything about preparing soil, or what a pepper plant needs and wants. Especially for a climate where you can overwinter them outside.

    Any way, ebay seeds are evil.

    I /might/ have some extra superhot seeds... I'll have to take an inventory.

    I know I will in a couple months when my plants have ripe pods :D So if these don't grow true, email me and I'll send you a good variety... I have 111 varieties growing this year, and am planning on having about ~400 plants (50 varieties in the ground, and 200 plants at the moment).

    If you count inadvertent hybrids from not isolating my first years seed, I have a few more than 111 I suppose... Including an awesome Thai Sun x something cross... 1.5" pods that are quite round, with 4 discreet lobes AND a jal/cayenne mix that is making cayenne peppers with the width and thickness of a Jalapeno.

    Be careful of the dreaded fungus gnat while your jiffy greenhouse is outside and uncovered... Their larva love to eat seeds, and roots. By the time you see one of them, you've already got a problem... Best answer is letting the top couple of inches of soil dry out in between each watering. Sevin Dust/spray/concentrate works too... but I prefer not to have to use poisons if at all possible.

    I grow in my garage - as I've mentioned - and being in florida the humidity is intense. I tried everything I could to get rid of the Fgnats (without resorting to poison) and failed. I ended up covering the surface of the greenhouse with dry peat, and then made it look like there had been a sevin dust blizzard in the jiffy green house. Within a few days, no more gnats.

    ymmv due to climate etc. Sevin is ~3$ for a shaker tube deally... One would use it outside, but not near any bodies of water, or in a strong wind (it is after all a powder). First good rain washes it away, and the plants do not absorb it. The bottle says its safe to harvest and eat fruit 3 days after application.

    I'm with Edyminion about not using a heating pad, and keeping the lid off as much as possible once your seedlings pop though. The alternative (if you want to keep the lid on) is removing your seedlings every morning and putting them in a solo cup/whatever. Just be carefull of the temps. The optimal range is 80-85 as was said before. Hotter and you'll kill some of the seeds, colder and germination takes longer (and you run the risk of complications due to the longer germ times). For your first year though, plant all 10 seeds, and if you get 5 or 6 plants, consider it a success :). Next year when you decide you need a couple hundred pounds of peppers for sauce, powder, ristras, or whatever, then focus on micromanagement. There are a number of people on other forums that go outside, sow their seeds in the garden directly, and call it good (of course, they wouldn't be from zone 5a).

    Appropriate levels of neglect are important... Someone said give them what they need, and then ignore them. That is great advice.

    Hmm... Most of all have fun with it... If it becomes so complicated that you find your self stressing more than enjoying the process, then you are working too hard. Its a hobby/passion, and so who cares if you have 100% germination rates if you don't find enjoyment in the process.

  • peppernovice
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    @Jsschrstrcks.....Wow,thanks for all that information. This is my first year growing super hots, but not my first time having a garden. I grow jalapenos and many other vegetables. I'm very familiar with Sevens Dust. I've used it many times. I've always bought seedlings, but wanted to start from scratch with my bhut jolokias. I will need help from everyone here, so I REALLY appreciate all the advice you guys are giving me. I talked to Ottawapepper and he's going to send some seeds. I really appreciate the offer though. I'm in NC so our climates are similar to each other. You probably have higher temps and humidity. I planted 20 seedlings and only 2 germinated so far. I've haven't gave up on the other 18. I still have them on a mat.(hoping) My first seedling looks good. I think it's going to be strong. I just hope it's a true bhut.

  • peppernovice
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have been trying to get my seedlings in the sun in the middle of the day. i don't leave them out over night, or after the sun starts getting low. I bring them in as soon as the temp gets under 70 or so. I was trying to put them outside as much as I could. I was told true sunlight was the best thing for them. Is this too soon? Should i keep them inside completely until they get a certain size? Thanks!

  • capoman
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes, I think it's too soon. Now that you have flourescent lights, keep them there until a week or two before you are ready to plant out to harden them, or put them in a window where the light is filtered by the glass. You'll notice most of us prefer to keep them indoors for the first few weeks. Jsschrstrcks is correct about humidity. Now that you have light, try to keep humidity between 40 and 60% if possible. A bit drier is no big deal, you can water more to compensate. The big problems happen when humidity gets too high. This is when you get fungus, pest (aphid, whitefly, fungus gnats) and edema issues. One thing that helps ALOT is to have a fan blowing lightly across them. You can get a small fan for less then $10 at any superstore. Both fungus and pests have a hard time establishing on plants that have a fan blowing lightly on them.

  • fusion_power
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    It is ALWAYS best to have your plants in direct sunlight so long as they are properly prepared for the intense light. All newly emerged seedlings are able to tolerate direct sunlight. Direct sunlight has one effect that you need to consider. It suppresses growth of the leaves because the plant does not need more leaf surface area to provide photosynthate. What the plant does instead is grow more roots. So a plant grown in direct sun may be tiny above the soil but have a huge root system below. You can emphasize this growth pattern by letting your plants dry out until they start to wilt before watering. The plant interprets the lack of water as a stimulus to grow more roots, therefore it makes a huge root system but has a relatively small top. This is actually a very good thing because a plant that has developed a huge root system will produce a much larger crop than a plant with a large top and a small root system. You can look this up online, there were several studies published back in the 1950's and 1960's.

    What about growing under lights? The plants tend to make more leaves and to have a larger above ground presence. This is usually because grow lights don't quite supply all the light the plant would normally receive. The result is that more effort is put into growing the above ground plant and relatively less on the root system. This looks good giving a nice pretty plant, but it brings on the problem of hardening off and if carried too far, can result in significantly reduced fruit production.

    In other words, babying your plants too much has the opposite effect of what you intended. This is why I deliberately mistreat my plants to some extent. I let them get dry and wilt. Then I give them water. I want my plants to be like junk yard dogs, able to handle anything that hits them. I will add that I start my plants indoors under lights and keep them there about 4 weeks before moving them to the greenhouse. By the time they have the first true leaves, they are in direct sun.

    DarJones

  • capoman
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    As you can see peppernovice, there is more then one way to skin a cat. You have to decide what works for you. All of the posters here have had success with peppers, often in different ways.

    Darjones: one question though. 4 weeks for your first true leaves is a long time??? I usually have second set of leaves by the two week mark or so after planting. At 6 weeks the plants are showing flowers. I've never had an issue with plants not being tough enough or producing enough (in containers). I agree you can start hardening them earlier, but I'd rather wait until the plant is a few inches tall with a few leaves first. I don't really get any hardening off shock either, or lack of production. I do agree a healthy root system is important, but I've found the best way to do that is with a well drained, bark based soil (right from the first transplant). Having bright light and a fan blowing on them indoors is really the first true step in hardening off a plant.

  • peppernovice
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I appreciate all advice, regardless of whether it is conflicting or not. I'm just glad you guys are willing to take time out of your day to teach others!

  • capoman
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    It depends on what your priorities are. I personally, prefer to get maximum germination rates and yields and have fruit at the earliest time possible, since I live in a climate that has a short season, and limited indoor space. I also want what I do to be heavily automated and consistent. Indoors is best for that.

    But as we also have posters in warmer climates that would prefer to be outside on a nice day rather then stuck indoors with fluorescent lights. I get that. I probably would too, although I do think it's harder to germinate seeds outside, which I have also done with shorter season plants. Variable wind, sun, rain, temperature and humidity outside, means you will have to watch your seeds/seedlings like a hawk as they can burn dry to a crisp or get flooded very quickly. This is very hard to do, especially if you work during the day and can't move seedlings out of the rain or sun at a moment's notice. But if you have the time to watch your plant's carefully when outside, you can be successful. It just depends on your situation.

  • fusion_power
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    It also helps if you have a greenhouse. I expect my seedlings to germinate in 7 to 14 days, then 1 to 2 weeks under lights indoors, then pot them up to cell trays and put them in the greenhouse. Start to finish, it is about 4 weeks for most superhot peppers since they tend to germinate in about 12 days on average.

    Please note that I start seed in bulk cells with up to 100 seed in a 3 inch cell. This is part of my process of growing seedlings. I'm growing about 10,000 pepper seedlings this year so you can see that I have to adapt a bit to get that much volume.

    DarJones

  • jsschrstrcks
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    10,000 is an awful lot of plants.

    I'll have about 400 with an option to grow another thousand or so for a seed co. Mostly all were started in jiffy greenhouses - outside (well... mostly... In my garage in the south facing window).

    Of course, I have the time to monitor them like a hawk.

  • capoman
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    A greenhouse definitely helps a lot if you are outside, although not everyone has that option. It filters sunlight somewhat, it eliminates the wind and rain variables, and reduces humidity variables. I also use a greenhouse now to get plants out sooner. I usually assume someone doesn't have that option when they ask questions and doesn't mention having one. I also move my heat mats outside and put flats on them, rather then trying to use a heater in the greenhouse. I've found that keeping the roots warm is the most important thing to do when the temps drop overnight.

  • romy6
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    How bout some pics Dar!

  • sbellotti84
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hey all,

    This is my first year planting a bhut and I'm going to be using a 5-7 gallon container for it. I will be moving it outside in a week or so into promix bx. My question is regarding fertilizing. I currently have an organic fert called Wegener's Liquid 8-6-6 which I have been using at 25% strength every few weeks. Would this suffice once the bhut is in it's final home outside? I also have a mixture of 5 different types of compost and manures leftover from my square foot garden. Which would be more beneficial? 8-6-6 organic or mixture of compost/manure? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    Steve

  • sbellotti84
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I failed to mention what some of the ingredients were in the 8-6-6 fert.
    8% nitrogen
    -2% ammoniacal nitrogen
    -1%nitrate nitrogen
    -5% water insoluble nitrogen
    phosphate - 6%
    potash - 6%
    calcium - 1.3%
    sulphur - 2.7%
    cobalt - 0.0010%
    molybdenum - 0.0119%
    sodium - 0.3%

    Derived from: Fish, sugar beet extract. molybdate sulphate, cobalt sulfate.

    Ill attach some pictures too.

    [IMG]http://i47.tinypic.com/5mjro.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i48.tinypic.com/2v9aywz.jpg[/IMG]

  • Darylltx
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    is it okay to strip all the stems below the branching? I have one stripped and another plant that was stripped new stems are growing from all the nodes. Also how do you directly put a photo on here without the link. I see some who do it?

    here are my Bhuts

    http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u501/darylltx/Picture002.jpg

    http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u501/darylltx/Picture001.jpg

  • capoman
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Lower leaves tend to feed the roots. Overall plant size is based on the root mass. Removing them may slow growth or at least reduce stretch, however there is the added benefit of increased air circulation into the plant, which is more helpful in high humidity situations.

    If you are in a smaller container, and/or are satisfied with the current size/growth of the plant, feel free to remove the lower leaves for air circulation. If you are in a large pot, and want a maximum size plant, leave them be.

  • Darylltx
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks Capoman. I am actually in the ground, no pots. And I am in a high humidity area, Texas; right now 68% humidity outside and 95 degrees.

  • smharris44
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm growing Bhuts for the first time this year; started them in January, and have them growing with some Habs (not the best idea I know, I'm over it). They've had peppers set for about a month and a half, and I was honestly just wondering how long they generally take to ripen?

  • peppernovice
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I just thought I would give you guys an update. Thanks to all the good advice I received, I was able to grow 3 bhut jolokia (ghost pepper) plants. They are all healthy and producing lots of pods. It's night time, but I think you can still see how healthy the plants are. Thanks again for all the help you guys were kind enough to give me. I would never have made it this far if I hadn't found this forum!

  • azzure08(zone8a)
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    that plant is a beauty I hope one day I can grow one too

  • plantslayer
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hello folks,

    Sorry to wake this old best of a thread up again. Anyway:

    I have a bhut jolokia planted in a pot in my yard in Seattle, in a spot that gets at fair amount of direct sunlight (I think 12 hours or more, not 100% sure). Right now it seems to be pretty happy, it's growing quickly and there are blossoms. Around here the weather warms up around the middle of June but can go down to highs in the low seventies for several days at a time.

    Anyway, if am just getting buds now, and the weather is generally decent (but not very hot) through September, does the plant have enough time to ripen fruit? let's assume the bud's don't all drop due to the screwy termparatures and a few fruit set next week.

    I know I can't get a huge crop like the folks in warmer areas, but I'll be disappointed if I don't get a few!

  • peppernovice
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I think if it starts putting out pods soon you'll be okay. If you don't get pods for another couple of weeks, you'll be cutting it close. My pods seem to sit for at least 3 to 4 weeks after they reach their full size. Once they start turning red, it can be another week to 10 days. Keep us posted. Good Luck!

    Tim

  • PaPeppers
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I've been transplanting my bhuts constntly, so what's the ideal for a final pot size for one plant. It's outgrowing my 3gallon bucket and I can't plant in ground

  • plantslayer
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    So I have a bunch of bhuts some of which are turning red now, in a very large pot. The planter is waaay too big to move. But the weather is getting cool and damp. The pot has decent drainage as far as Ican tell. Temps are daytime low 60s F, night mid 40s F.

    So, is it better to just let the plant stay outside until I have red peppers, or do I need to do something else, like pick the half-ripe peppers and let them ripen inside? Can rain and damp weather ruin the fruit?

  • seysonn
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    @ plantslayer ... Peppers, if have reached their full size, may have a chance to get color by sitting on the counter. I have experimented , Green Serrano, Green Pepperoncini, Green Jalapeno, ... get fully red on the counter. AS LONG AS THEY HAVE REACHED FULL SIZE>

    But I think a better way, is to pull the plant and hang it upside down, in a place like garage or shack. Some indirect light can also help.

  • judo_and_peppers
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    you could always build a tent over it if you know it's gonna drop really low that night. a tarp and a bit of creativity when it comes to stakes can go a long way. my dad used shovels, a ladder, anything he could think of to hold up the tarp that protected his orchids. if the plant starts looking like it's dying, that's the time to take drastic action. bhuts don't really develop that classic flavor unless they're allowed to ripen fully to red on the plant before picking. I'm no expert, this is my first year and I live in florida. but I grow bhuts and I've eaten them green, and fully red. and the difference is worth waiting for.

  • seysonn
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes, Judo.... that can be done if it was just one night. But if the cold and frost is persistent, and eventually winter is coming, then those efforts will not have substantial pay off. What you described make a real sense in the spring.

  • DMForcier
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Heck, plantslayer is in no trouble now - he's in zone 8. No frost expected for 6 weeks or so. I'd say he can go until Thanksgiving at a stretch, and then pull it inside for a running start for next year.

    Start looking for a big pot that is small enough that you can move it. You can trim the plant down before digging, and even trim the root ball. See various Overwintering threads here.

    Dennis

  • plantslayer
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Let me re-phrase my problem here:

    I am mainly concerned about getting good fruit, keeping the plant is a secondary issue. If I want ripe fruit, is it better to:

    a) leave the plant outside until it gets close to freezing (the fruit will be OK and slowly ripen?)

    b) dig the plant out of the massive planter pot, and move it with the fruit into to a smaller pot, which I take inside?

    c) pick the fruit when they start to turn and bring them inside. Or, failing that, even pick green fruit if there is a chance the fruit will be ruined by bad weather conditions.

    d) some other option (that does not involve making a small greenhouse, which right now could encourage nasty fungus growth in my climate, I am afraid)

    Sorry to not be more clear about this, I should have written this out more carefully!

  • Armageddon
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I would leave the plant out if you dont have many plants all you will have to do is cover it up with a garbage bag or a sheet of plastic in the evening and pull it off in the morning after the sun sets and thats only on the evenings expecting frost other then that your plant should be ok if you do decide to bring it in i would trim the plant back while its still planted then wait a couple of days before you do the final transplant it will be less of a shock to the plant sometimes if you trim the plant back and transplant it in the same day you can take a chance of losing near all the leafs and possible fruit drop IMO . its just now starting to get chill at night but still trying to push for another month here .

  • DMForcier
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The plant needs light. Outside light is better than inside light (unless you already have a high-dollar marijuana farm). Unless you need to dig it to get it to the best light - and that would be a tradeoff anyway - leave it where it is as long as possible.

    Option c) is reasonable as the ripening process will continue anywhere once it's started. But it isn't necessary unless a real freeze is on the way. The main danger from frost is to the leaves and that's easily avoided with a cover.

    Dennis

  • judo_and_peppers
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    honestly I'd go with option A. as Dennis pointed out the main danger from frost is to the leaves. and you said it was getting into the 40's at night, which is different from a frost. the cold won't kill the plants, frost will.

    as I said, bhuts taste way better if allowed to ripen fully on the plant. much much much better. I'd wait to pick anything until the situation gets serious, to make all your efforts in growing the plant more worthwhile.

  • plantslayer
    10 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks guys,

    Another detail: it is raining like mad right now; basically it rained nonstop for about 3 and a half days recently. They are in a pot, so I think they get OK drainage, but will all that water cause them to crack or otherwise impair ripening/healthy fruit?

    Thanks again!

  • User
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    So I replanted my bhut jolokia seedling into a bigger container, put it back in my grow box, and the thing EXPLODED in height. Ok, the 2 gallon pot is probably taking up a good amount of the space, but still...wow. (the plant on the left is a tomato plant, btw.)

    At any rate, my plant is obviously outgrowing my grow box. I know I have to move it outside unless I want to tie it down (and I don't even know if I can do that now). But my night temperatures, at least right now, are barely hitting 50s, and the day ones *maybe* get to 70. What can I do? Will it still be OK if I harden it off? Do I need to put a bag around the plant or something?

  • woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Start hardening in the day and if it's too cool at night, just bring inside. Hopefully in the next couple weeks, those night temps will get up into the 50's so you can fully harden. 10-12 hours of daylight at 60-70s is a helluva lot better than 16 under lights at this point.

    Kevin

  • User
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    OK, so temps have finally, FINALLY gotten up to 50...barely. One or two nights at 47 won't hurt, right?

  • woohooman San Diego CA zone 10a
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Nope. Especially for established plants.

    Kevin

  • User
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    So my plant finally has fruit! But they're turning red awfully fast, and they're not very big. Can I harvest them now, or should I wait a bit longer?

  • seysonn
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The Diaries about once upon a time somebody called himself a "Peppernovice". It all started almost 4 years ago. Now that "peppernovive" has become a "Pepperexpert".
    And his name is Tim, a real gentleman.

    This thread is a wealth of information, contributed by many experts of our own right here on this forum. How to germinate ...TO .... how to grow successfully.

    seysonn

  • ronnyb123
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    ummmm walkie,

    Is that last picture suppose to be Bhut Jolokia? If it is, you got jipped. It is not Bhut Jolokia.

    Where did you get your seed?.

    This post was edited by RonnyB123 on Sun, Oct 26, 14 at 13:37

  • DMForcier
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    walkie, when they turn red like that they are ripe and won't do anything other than rot. Do with it what you will. Could be tasty.

    What is that supposed to be, anyway? (It's not BJ).

    Dennis

  • User
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    According to what I just looked up, it's some sort of BJ-green pepper hybrid. And that's messed up, because the plant was labeled BJ.

    I'm gonna try them and see how hot they really are. This should be interesting.

  • northerner_on
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Walkie74: What you have there looks like some sort of 'bird' pepper. There are many varieties of them and some have excellent heat and flavour. I am sure someone on this forum may be able to send you a few 'real' bhut seeds. They have a wonderful flavour in addition to the heat.

  • TNKS
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    That is for sure not a Bhut
    Plus side is you gained working experience thru all this
    Bhuts are an OK strain to work with,hardly at the top of the Super ranks but still respectable heat.
    There are many other strains out here that will put even the best of bhut strains to same at the SHU level.

    Someone mentioned it back up the thread somewhere and it is very much incorrect,for novice eaters "its good enough",but both the heat and flavor are comparatively lacking compared to many other super strains currently available.

    Primo
    Bubblegum
    Butch T
    BrainStrain
    Moruga

    Look for them

  • ronnyb123
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Walkie74

    Why don't you join the swap. I believe ghost, among others, will probably be available.

  • DMForcier
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ain't no "probably" about it.

  • User
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yeah, it was labeled a Bhut, but it's obviously not. And my newbie self couldn't tell the difference. *sigh* It's OK, though. Hubby now has something to throw into his scrambled eggs, or pickle if he feels like it. I'm going to find the swap and join it in the hopes of getting real BJs. Thanks, guys.

  • User
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Oh...and to be fair, I got the plant at my local OSH, so I guess I can't be too upset. I only paid about $5 for it to begin with.

  • DMForcier
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Expert or not, there's no way to tell the difference between a BJ and other members of its species (Capsicum chinense) until it sets pods. (Well, a real expert might be able to tell from the flowers, but those people don't work for free.)

    Which, btw, is the reason you shouldn't buy from an unbranded web site.

    Dennis

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