After reading, I think the cause is either #1 to much nitrogen, or #2 stress from the recent aphid infestation Ive been fighting. The plant has been brought indoors about a month ago and is under a 250 HPS.

When I transplanted (into a 3 gallon pot) I added coffee grounds as well as some garden tone (4-6-6)and a bit of gypsum to the soil.

Ive been using a soap/alcohol spray to control the aphids and they are under control, although not eliminated (spraying intervals every 4-5 days or so)

So if the cause of the flowers not setting is to much nitrogen .. what can I do about it? Water heavily to leach out the nutrients ... then add some bloom booster to replace some of the lost nuts (since it will flush everything out)????

Or should I just wait its course and let the plant use it up.. eventually. How long would this take for the plant to use it up? Its probably approx. 18"-24" tall and the same width.

Gypsum effectively changes the structure and fertility of heavy clay soils, especially those that are heavily
weathered or subject to intensive crop production. Gypsum also improves sodic (saline) soils by
removing sodium from the soil and replacing it with calcium. Therefore, one can see improvement in
clay soil structure and fertility, and desalinization of sodium-rich soils, by using gypsum.
What other effects will gypsum have on soil and plant health? There are a number of scientific studies
on gypsum usage both in the literature and on websites. Briefly, researchers have found:
• Gypsum does not usually change soil acidity, though occasional reports of both increasing and
decreasing pH exist;
• Gypsum can increase leaching of aluminum, which can detoxify soils but also contaminates
nearby watersheds;
• Gypsum can increase leaching of iron and manganese, leading to deficiencies of these nutrients;
• Gypsum applied to acid soils can induce magnesium deficiency in plants on site;
• Gypsum applied to sandy soils can depress phosphorus, copper and zinc transport;
• Gypsum can have negative effects on mycorrhizal inoculation of roots, which may account for
several reports of negative effects of gypsum on tree seedling establishment and survival;
• Gypsum is variable in its effects on mature trees;
• Gypsum will not improve fertility of acid or sandy soils;
• Gypsum will not improve water holding capacity of sandy soils; and
• Gypsum’s effects are short-lived (often a matter of months)

Sometimes adding this and a bit of that will exasperate the underlying issue. Sometimes the best course of action is to revert to the basics.

Give the pot a good rinsing to flush out added nutes. Put a 3/4 – 1 inch layer of "good" compost on top of your potting mix and give the plant the required light. In my experience, more often than not, the plant knows best what it needs and will take such if readily available (via the compost).

Over the past few years this approach has served me well.

Bill

p.s. Oh ya… after applying the compost, whisper the immortal words of Yoda to the plant… Try not. Do or do not, there is no try.

Bill ... Ill definately do that and see what happens .. also I did notice it might be a little warm, Ill have to check temps to make sure they arent over 90 in the day as Ive heard that can be the culprit.

I dont really have any good compost readily available, but I do have worm castings ....... that should work as a good substitute dont ya think??

Yes, temp could be an issue.

I've never used worm castings but have read great reviews. Give it a shot and keep us informed.

Bill

1. Day temp too high >95F
2. Night temp too low <65F
3. Too much nitrogen fertilizer
4. Too much water
5. Low light levels (reduces fertility).
6. Very low humidity (reduces fertility)
7. Poor air circulation (air circulation contributes to pollination).
8. Lack of pollinating insects.
9. Size of pot
10. Too much mineral in feedwater.
11. Too much grower attention.