I'd love to help, but I can't get a good look at any of them. try to get a closeup of one. also, the GW "pests & diseases" subforum is a great place to get help, but they'll also ask for a better pic.

Possibly aphids -- At least the proportion of wing to body is correct.

if so, should wash of easily -- repeat as needed.
Should also squish easily.(Revenge is good.)

1) Look like aphids to me too. Look on the underside of the leaves to see if you can find immature soft-greenish bugs of similar size but without wings. If so, I'd say aphids for sure.

2) Bad.

3)Aphids will suck the juice from your plants, weakening them, will distort growth since they favour younger soft growth, and they can multiply quickly to cause major damage.

4)Your choice how toxic you want to go. Obviously the more toxic, the more effective, but if you are near harvest then you probably want to choose something non-toxic like dish detergent diluted in water, or just a regular blast of water on the underside of the leaves. If the plants are a long-way from harvest, nuke 'em with the nastiest stuff you can buy, just making sure to keep dosage levels below what will harm the plant. My 2 cents.

Since the pic is not very clear, make sure you know what they are, to me they look like three things.

1. Fruit flies
2. Fungus gnats
3. Aphid

Look at pictures online of the three and compare them to your bugs then get rid of them. Also look at where they dwell, on the soil, under the leaves on the tops of the leaves or elsewhere, try to find the source and treat the area and eliminate the source.

Mark

Re-reviewed the bugs w/in the green house a/ have determined them to be aphids based on online research. The "honeydew" sap is starting to cover leaves/stalks both on top a/ bottom of plants turning leaves yellow a/ both browning/curling the ends. Also, the larvae underneath the leaves resemble online photos of aphid clusters.

My main concerns are:
1. I am near a harvest; however, don't want to sacrifice the "long term" health of other plants to get this harvest
2. If I spray them down w/ water that:
2a. They will come back w/in 2-3 days
2b. It is averaging 54-58 as highs a/ 32-38 as lows each day a/ I don' t want to shock the plants by watering them. Am afraid that the required volume of water needed, due to GH size, that they in turn freeze

I put 5000 ladybugs in there last week; however, I believe most have left a/or died due to cold weather a/ GH being "cold-frame" a/ not 100% sealed.

At this point, I think I am going to perform the water spray early in morning, so as to allow the daytime heating to help dissipate the abundance of water during day until this harvest. Then in next 4-6 days hit them w/ an insecticide type spray.

Thoughtsâ¦.

I doesn't matter what you spray them with or nasty stuff -- you will miss at least one with the result that the survivor will produce more, and more, and more.

If you don't do anything, they could weaken the plant enough that you will lose the peppers.

As was said, water works. Then repeat as needed.

The "water spary" technique isn't cutting it. Actually seeing more a/ now the winged females are mutiplying. Got to get some insecticide action. Looking at APHOX a/ an every three day spray.

My guess is they are enjoying the 60+ degree temps in the GH a/ multiplying. Peppers are getting sticky. Got to take "hard" action so as to not lose the plants.

Hit them with insecticidal soap which can be purchased or home made very easily. It is effective and completely non-toxic so it won't hurt your upcoming harvest. I certainly don't shy away from using chemical pesticides but the insecticidal soap has worked well for me. But keep in mind that it is not a one time application. You have to do it each day for at least three or four days in a row. Otherwise, you will kill the adults but some of the eggs or larva survice and repopulate.
The other thing is, that it is suggested that you rinse the soapy water off a few hours after application. I don't bother with this step and it doesn't seem to make a difference but it might be a good thing, just kind of a hassle, especially for big plants.
If you want more info on insecticidal soap, do a search on the forum....there is a lot of info already posted.

Aphids seem to like the moderate to cool temps. I always have them outside in the spring and then as the heat hits, they disappear until the fall when I try to bring plants in for the winter.

Otherwise, hit them with some Sevin and be done with it....just make sure you wash the harvested fruit well.
Bruce

I am going to try this insecticide for a week (prob every other day) via gallon sprayer a/ see what happens. If nothing looks like it is clearing up then I'll wash em all down again a/ then hit it with a Sevin Dust bomb.

The trick with soft-bodied insects like aphids is to double up the recommended treatments. Water spray and/or soap every 3-4 days for the 1st couple weeks. Make sure to rinse off soaps a few hours after treatment. After you bring down the populations to something manageable, weekly treatments should suffice.

Neem oil will also work plus it has anti-feeding properties.

in the long run, consider planting beneficial attracting flowers and herbs -- research Integrated Pest Management.

Lacewing larvae will clean up aphids et al in no time.

Sevin is evil. Not only is it poisonous, it will kill all beneficials too.

Good luck.

Kevin

Yes, and a 12 gauge shotgun is non-toxic and effective as well. Just use steel, non-toxic shot. Oh, and you don't have to opt for the magnum loads. Light loads have been shown to be just as effective on Aphids and other soft bodied insects. Keep the magnum loads for the Grasshoppers and Locusts.

There are commercial insecticides for aphids and whit flies. If I remember it correctly, one was named VIC (?). Now NEEM OIL should do it. It provide a film of oil and may kill them too. Water spray is not quite effective because either they climb back up or go to another plant.
Sevin dust also is another thing. I have heard that fine wood ash can be a barrier as well.

Found this product a/ am going to use it at a rate of every two days. It contains both the piramor a/ neem oil.

Fertilome Triple Action II
Active ingredients:
Pyrethrins ��" 0.25%
Piperonyl Butoxide, Technical ��" 2.5%
Clarified Hydrophobic Extract of Neem Oil ��" 70%

Seysonn: it's not so much what you said about climbing back up as it is their very rapid re-population rates. Tha's why it's so important to keep at it. Most people spray and then think all is fine. One has to be very diligent to get out there every 3-4 days for the 1st couple weeks.

jtight: Sounds like it will do the trick. Might be a bit of overkill with the pyrethrins though. The general rule for pest control is identify, then treat-- but treat with the least harmful to beneficials as possible. With aphids(for me), it's an IPM program, next water treatments, then soap, then neem. I've never had to go further than that.

Water and soap treatments are very effective. Like i said though, one has to be diligent.

Kevin

Try using Diatomaceous Earth will effin kill them!