i see no reason to treat leaf spot in FALL!!!! ...

the leaves will be falling off ...

and no.. you do not need a professional product...

but you dont need one until next spring..

didnt you just plant this tree???? or am i getting you confused with other peach peeps???? .. if so.. transplant stress alone could be your main issue ....

BTW .. since you seem to be a newbie.. i would sure like some confirmation by the peeps here.. as to your diagnosis ...

peach is one of the few fruit trees that RARELY need spraying .... so i am worried about your overreaction ...

ken

It is almost three years old and has been a beautiful tree. Well, let me be clear here. First off it's a weeping cherry not a peach tree and the tree is way older than 3 years. I have own it for three years.

I hate using chemicals but these leaves have tiny black spots all over them all over the tree. But if you suggest I wait then I will. But wouldn't I need a preventative for next year? If so, what do you recommend?

I did post this on the Pests and Disease forum yes for once I saw the cost of this "Bravo online I had to take a step back. You fussed at me in the "Black Leaf Spot" post so I told you to be nice. LOL

Tried deleting the post but could not figure out how. Didn't want to double my tracks.

Thanks for ny help. You sound like a pro.

p.s. is this something that would cause me to have need of collecting the leaves in case of spreading into the soil? Sorry not able to provide a photo.

Jaw....please be certain of the identification of the problem. Though all cherries can be prone to this fungus, it's important to be certain. Your local Extension office should be a good source of information.

Secondly, the suggestion of Rimodil as the 'only ' resort is absolutely NOT true. I strongly suggest that you read other university based fact sheets and you'll soon find that there are other things you can do and other chemicals, as a last resort.

The most important element for you, a backyard grower with one ornamental tree, is sanitation. This fungus overwiinters in infected leaves that have fallen to the ground. Doing a thorough clean up after leaf fall and during the growing season is very important.

Neem oil can be used to prevent that dreaded early infection, and halt it if caught in early stages. As far as chemical fungicides go, look for Chlorothalonil or Daconil in the active ingredient. There are many such products on the shelves of your local garden centers.

But, you cannot rely on chemicals alone. And ken is right about using chemicals now. Start raking leaves.

Wow! I had no idea this problem would be that involved. I looked up Captan and Infuse by Bonide. The Infuse is systemic. Since I don't eat the little cherries I figure what could it hurt? But I will take the advice of doing nothing this year and will make sure the leaves are well picked up.

I do have Neem oil. Would I apply it after blooming next year or before? Nothing appears to be on the branches.
And how often would suggest to apply next year? Meaning, should I keep it up after rain, etc?

Thanks for all the help....

p.s. Now that I think about it. These leaves down here in the south are not really that tired. The tree is sprouting new leaves all over it and even has a few little blooms. Now what? Would you go with the Neem oil? Or the fungal cure agent?

What Rhizo_1 said. Sanitation is essential. Also important is getting an early start next spring before the disease gets a firm foothold. If you don't like chemical sprays, you could use bacillus subtilis or the previously recommended neem oil.

Please consider carefully before using systemics. 1. They can remain in the plant tissues for a long time, apparently years. 2. You may not eat the cherries, but a host of beneficial insects (bees, butterflies as well as predators that help control the bad bugs) visit those blossoms and may be adversely affected by systemics that are translocated to the nectar and pollen.

Earlier in the season, I would gently feed a tree that is refoliating, as that process uses up energy stored in the root system. However, at this point, in NJ Zone 7 at least, feeding at or after Labor Day is not recommended as it will stimulate new growth that will not have a chance to harden off before winter sets in. (Our first frost here is usually around Halloween.) However, your tree is already putting out new growth, and you may have a later first freeze. I'd like to see what others have to say on this point.

In any event, as someone else may have already suggested, make sure your tree's cultural needs are being met: adequate sun and air circulation, a well-drained moist soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5. An organic mulch will help stabilize soil temperature and moisture levels, just keep it a few inches from the bark of the tree.

Whether or not a peach tree has problems depends upon where in the US that tree is growing. In my region, they are subject to multiple diseases!

As has been said, the preferred time to spray is while the tree is dormant or very early in the growing season. Timing the spray, and determining which spray is used, depends upon which disease is present.

Right now, sanitation is what you need to do. I.E.: collect & discard affected leaves.

So far, the costly products that have been mentioned are not for use by home gardeners.

So it's important to talk with local people who know what's what in your region.

And such people are in your county's Extension Service office. You can phone them with your questions or, better yet, you can take in a sample . (A good sample for this tree would be a piece of an affected branch about 12-18 inches long.)

Locate your county's Extension Service office with this map
http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/

Good luck!

Here is a link that might be useful: locate your county's Extension Service office

Since Pyola is an insecticide it would have no affect at all on a fungal disease, and since Pyola is mostly pyrethrins, a broad spectrum poison, spraying it does have an affect.
Take some samples from that tree to your counties office of your state universities Cooperative Extension Service for proper identification of what the problem is and they can advise you on what to use and when to use it. Quite often when is as important as what. Your states agricultural school, those Cooperative Extension Service people, have research stations all over your state where they research all kinds of problems that growers can have and the solutions for those problems. Since you pay for that you should take advantage of what you have already paid for.

You people are amazing! I have just followed the link to my extension office which is based out of the University of Ga. I will call Tuesday since today is Sat. and Labor Day wknd. I will need to know how to contain some soil samples as well. I am so new at this.

No sprays now. I promise. Raked up leaves this morning and will stay on top of it. So next spring.......do I spray the Neem oil on the bare branches? That is what I picture as I read this. Also, can I spray the Neem into the soil? Sorry for so many questions....

Many thanks to all who are helping out here. Your advise in most valuable....

Where do you live since you are already raking up leaves? I am in MA and leaves have not even thought about falling yet.

I believe you could just wait until spring (early spring) to spray.

Suggi, diseased leaves will fall from an infected tree all during the growing season. It's important to practice good housekeeping all year.

No need to spray the soil.

Neem Oil products appear to offer the best protection for certain plant diseases if applied, to the leaves, before there are signs and symptoms, therefore applying Neem Oil products now will do little to help your Weeping Cherry. There are some anecdotal reports that applying Neem Oil products to the soil around plants may help deter thingys such as slugs, but nothing I have found relates to aiding in control of plant diseases

Suggi the only leaves I am raking are the ones that have fallen from this Weeping Cherry. We won't see Fall until sometime in Late October/early November. Although my neighbor's Maple is a beautiful red and is losing leaves. Weird. It does this every year.

I received an email but do not see it posted here concerning another product. Here I'll show you:

"FWIW, lime sulfur is an excellent fungicide for this issue and is considered a 'natural' product and is approved for organic gardening. Has far better effectiveness than Bacillus subtilis."

What is all your opinions about this? Sounds like something I could use now.

And what is Bacillus subtilis??? Sounds like a Greek Mythical character......

I've always been a bit wary of many formulations, lime sulfur included, so am not very familiar with this material. There is a discussion on it in the Rose Forum at
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/roses/msg110832507624.html.

Bacillus subtilis is a bacteria commonly found in the environment - soil, air, water, and particularly decaying plant matter; it aids in the decompostion process. Since it also produces antibiotic and antifungal compounds, its efficacy and safety in controlling plant diseases was explored and formulations are now fairly readily available, labeled for use in suppressing or controlling about 30 bacterial and fungal diseases. It is supposed to have very low toxicity to non-target organisms.

Neem oi is another very useful product in the garden, with low adverse impact on the environment.

That being said, always, always read labels completely and carefully, following label directions regarding mixing, application rates and personal protection. They're probably erring on the side of caution, but why take chances?

One thing everyone should be aware of is the availability, via internet, of Material Safety Data Sheets (commonly called MSDS). In the work environment, these must be readily available to any workers using any covered materials ... even substances we consider common household cleaning products and pesticides. There are several sites that will provide this info free of charge. Also check out Cornell's references linked below.

Here is a link that might be useful: MSDS & Other Chemical Safety Information