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axel_hb

Help with mole control

Axel
9 years ago

I have moles that are simply destroying our garden. They dig tunnels around and under our drippers, making it impossible to irrigate. They're a real nuisance, literally tilling out all the soil around our seedlings, with the seedlings subsequently drying out.

I've tried the Talpirid worm baits and Tomcat worm baits. After spending $80 and placing 30 so odd worms in the tunnels with no results, it's pretty obvious those worms are complete snake oil. The worms actually disappear, but the moles don't. From what I can tell, the mole just buries the worm to get it out of the way. I had a lot of respect for Bell Labs, but my experience with Talpirid obviously shows even Bell labs can't be trusted.

Does anyone have any good suggestions? Please, no suggestions for repellants, they also don't work, at least not on California moles. I'd like to find a good trap. Cinch traps don't work because the moles will stop when they encounter the trigger with their front.

I am looking for a good trap that has a trigger above and will nail the mole.

Thanks.

Comments (3)

  • Kimmsr
    9 years ago

    While often it does appear there may be more than one mole working an area moles need about 1/4 acre of territory and will defend that to the death from invasion by other moles. The single most effective method of control is traps, none of the other methods of control have been shown to be consistently able to do much of anything except cause one to spend large amounts of money.
    One fairly expensive method that has shown it works is spraying 1 pint of Castor Oil over 2,500 square feet. This may need to be repeated about every 6 weeks, although some research indicates once the wee bugger is drive out spraying the perimeter works quite well.
    What ever method of control is used if the resident mole is eliminated there is another waiting to replace it.

  • morz8 - Washington Coast
    9 years ago

    The placement of the 'worms' needs careful consideration as does placement of the traps. Are you sure you put them in active travelling tunnels and not in the temporary feeding tunnels that may not be used again.

    My luck is hit and miss with both, I'm not reliably consistent but I did eliminate one mole after placing three worms last week. I found it at the edge of the driveway the morning after 'worming'....quite dead and with no apparent injuries to otherwise explain its death so I assume it had ingested the bait.

    DH has some luck with them but standing patiently where there has been fresh activity with pitchfork or foresters hoe in hand until he sees movement of soil or sod, then manually dispatches...

    I would just about give them the lawn, but they tunnel in my beds doing a surprising amount of damage. I just added 6 dwarf rhododendrons at $17.95 each along the driveway and a mole tunneled a circle around two of those. Now there's a good way to get a plant to establish in the garden, circle it with air so roots can go only so far and then stop

    I don't know that one trap is particularly better than the others - mine are Mole Pro and easily set with my smaller hands. They came with a video on placement that you can see online too that might be beneficial to you even if you don't buy the product, the suggestions apply to the placement of bait worms too.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Mole Pro traps

    This post was edited by morz8 on Mon, Sep 15, 14 at 11:19

  • Axel
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Thanks for the info. I have been baiting both feeding tunnels and deeper tunnels. I usually go and check to see if the worm is consumed. In most cases, the mole uses the same feeding tunnel but will burrow around the worm, avoiding it at all cost.