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skugg

Shot hole disease on ornamental cherry blossom

skugg
9 years ago

Early last year I bought an ornamental cherry blossom (Prunus 'Dream Catcher') in a small quart container and planted it in my right-of-way on a quiet neighborhood street. The tree has managed to grow from less than a foot tall to nearly 10' tall in less than a year and a half. However, near the end of both summers the tree has been afflicted with a nasty leaf disease that from what I can tell is a fungal shot hole infection.

The disease appears to always start on the lower leaves of the tree while gradually spreading upward. As the lower leaves become diseased, discolor, curl and fall, new growth emerges from the tree's extremities. Last year when the tree was small I treated mostly for what I thought was an insect problem, but I believe what little insect damage there is is merely ornamental and not causing what appears to be shot hole. I began treating for with 2 different types of fungicides once the problem was full-blown this past summer, but from my research that appears to have been too late as treatment for fungal diseases should begin before the problem visibly presents itself. The presence of sooty mildew/mold gives credence to the tree having some fungal issues. Eventually the disease will knock out all but a handful of leaves, at which point it is late enough in the year that the tree goes dormant and does not put out new growth.

The turf is well-drained, and this past summer I only gave it limited watering, mostly while applying an organic fertilizer. I do not allow water to touch the leaves while watering, but the past 2 years in this part of Florida have been so rainy on a consistent basis, I have not even had to irrigate my St. Augustinegrass. It's always August when the problem becomes rampant, and I am not sure if it due to the tree becoming weakened during the height of summer, or if other conditions are right for the disease to peak at it's strongest at that time.

Right now I am applying a weekly fungicidal treatment to the tree and immediate area, and hoping that will prevent this outbreak from occurring next year. Is there anything else I should be doing? I don't mind putting forth the effort, I just hope that the fruits of my labor will be rewarded. I'm hoping this is something the tree may grow out of as it gets taller and the foliage moves further away from the source of the fungus which I assume is the ground. Japanese cherry blossoms aren't that exotic in town, and I have found many growing successfully in areas I know they are not being giving any attention (woody areas, deserted lots, etc).

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

{{gwi:2130106}}

Comments (6)

  • jean001a
    9 years ago

    Stop using the fungicide. You're applying it too late in the disease process to do any good.

    Please read the info at the link below...

    Here is a link that might be useful: shothole on Prunus species

  • ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
    9 years ago

    do these trees really grow nine feet during the transplant year.. in z8???

    hyper fertilization can lead to all kinds of problems ...

    ken

  • skugg
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    It only made it to 3-4' tall by the end of the first year, it got significantly larger this second year during the growing season. I always applied the fertilizer as directed (typically at lower quantities since they seemed fairly high for such a small tree), and cut back even further this year.

    If I only need to be applying the fungicide prior and during the emergence of the disease, are copper or bordeaux-based ones preferable for this type of fungus? Is there a different type of all-in-one solution I should be applying just in case this is a bacterial and not fungal disease?

  • ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
    9 years ago

    devils advocate here ....

    is treatment really needed on an ORNAMENTAL TREE????

    a lot of the various prunus family get ugly by fall .. so what.. the leaves fall off.. and we start over in spring ...

    you might also want to look into resistant varieties .... if any ... as replacing yours with such might end up cheaper... versus decades of spraying ...

    and finally .... perhaps your area simply isnt conducive to cherry blossom trees [you are on the high end of its range] ... and you should divest and try something else that accomplishes your goal .. just because you want something ... doesnt mean it will work ...

    short of owning an orchard and doing cherry for money .. i cant think of any plant... that i would spray multiple times per year ...

    just things to think about ..

    good luck

    ken

    ps: there is a very active fruit forum ... who knows ... you might find help there ... as i said.. prunus is prunus ....

  • skugg
    Original Author
    9 years ago

    Unfortunately since the damage starts to really take its toll on the leaves in August, that is 2-4 months before any deciduous trees in the area are having their leaves turn and drop naturally. Having some decent fall coloring is one of the reasons I went with this tree.

    It only takes a few seconds to cover the tree with liquid treatment due to the fact it is still so small. I'll give it another year and if I think this will be a congential issue permanently going forward, I'll probably dig it out.

    I did take the leaves to the Extension Office, and the guy thought it was fungal due to the extensive amount of rain we were having. He didn't have a whole lot of other input though unfortunately.

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