the brown could be damage from cold weather, wind or transportation. I would watch the tips as being more important than last year's leaves.

Looks like the tip is green and you have an inflo coming out on that tip so I would say its probably doing ok.

The most apparent leaf damage looks like mechanical injury. If/when the leaves represent an energy drain on the plant, chemical messengers within the plant will signal the plant it's time to shed them. Until that time, they represent a valuable resource because they are making food for the plant through photosynthesis, so I wouldn't remove them until they go brown. Also, plants 'harvest' carbohydrates, mobile nutrients, and various bio-compounds from organs being shed whenever there is time, so removing them deprives the plant of that opportunity. The things I mentioned are less significant in a robust plant, but one that's sliding a little, like yours, could use the extra little push.

It may be a trick of the camera lens, but it looks like some of the newer foliage might be coming in slightly deformed? If so, it would probably indicate something nutritional that could be related to an actual deficiency, or it could be a culturally related deficiency due to impaired uptake. That it shows in the newer foliage points to the probability it would be a deficiency of one or more of the immobile nutrients, which means a micronutrient deficiency or calcium. Unless you're pretty sure the soil is appropriate, and that the plant came from a nursery is no assurance, I'm thinking that even though the plant is in leaf, a repot might be better than trying to nurse the plant through an entire growth cycle, unless it quickly offers signals it's going to turn around.

Al

Thank you for your replies.

The utility of the existing greenness is why I questioned removal, yes--as long as it's not actually sick, whatever green is still left in that leaf is doing its thing for the plant.

The small leaf in the bottom photo with the white spots is a newer leaf and is a bit wonky. I'm actually not sure if the leaking sap was there when I got it or if it came from my fiddling with the leaf. The other tree (not pictured) is much healthier looking, although it does have a newer leaf that also looks a little wrinkly--not totally smooth, anyway--but not as bad as the one pictured.

It got potted up, I believe is the term--not repotted--when I got it home. I'll see how it goes and perhaps repot it.

I agree that most of that looks like transportation damage. In spring the newer leaves and tips will bleed latex at the slightest touch. Nothing to be alarmed about, but I would take Al's advice and make sure it's in a good, fast-draining soil.

Hey Everyone!!!

You can almost see the seam where the latex is oozing from the recent damage. Like Jen mentioned, it was probably in transit and you can easily fold a leaf and it will bleed latex at the slightest touch.

The other leaves look like it has had a hard time in the past. Probably not fertilized at all and the tree looks like it has been in the same pot for a while.

You will see a big improvement if you do a slight repot (potting up) and try and not damage the roots so that you will continue to see that beautiful inflo come to full bloom.

I would also leave the leaves and let it drop them when they are ready. You can tell that they are old leaves because they are soo far down the main stem.

Welcome to the forum and please let us see this tree after you decide to change the soil to a fast draining mix and give this winner some fertlilizer.

K... Good Eye!! : )

Take care,

Laura

It's in "new" soil already. I just didn't remove its old soil around the roots. I broke up the roots a bit before I put it in. I don't know if I should have removed the soil first or not, I guess is the thing. The new medium should be better than what it was in (or technically still is in, around the roots)--mulch, moss, soil, Perlite, sand, bonemeal, and Osmocote. I don't know if the balance is right, but it rained quite a bit today, and the new soil is damp but not wet (I just felt it), so I guess it's draining.

Hey Rushrulz,

I guesss that i missed that you potted up your tree!

Give it some time now that you have changed it to its new soil and give it some time to adjust to its new container. Give it some indirect light and gradually acclimate it to the sunshine down in Texas. Im sure it will be fine.

Don't worry..your are taking good care of your tree!!!

Please keep us updated and Good Luck!!!

You are lucky to have an inflo!! : )

Post pictures when you have some blooms!!!

Relax and enjoy!!!

Take care,

Laura

Just an update, if anyone cares, heh...my cat has been babysitting it by napping in its pot sometimes. I'm not sure if it's helping any. :-)

In the meantime, the inflo has grown like an inch or so, and a baby leaf is appearing at the top. I hadn't even realized it had an inflo, so I'm impressed that it was visible in pictures taken at night with a phone (by people more familiar with the appearance of a newly forming inflo than myself, clearly).

Its only issue now is its slanty growth. I moved it away from the door a little and staked it, but the wire thingy keeps sliding down. Alas, my balcony's only 3 feet wide (or long or deep, depending on what you consider to be width and length)--you know, from the door straight ahead. So there's only so much breathing room. It's actually borderline dangerous for me with all those pots out there. :-)

The other plumeria (not pictured) is largely unchanged from when I got it.

I figured I'd post a follow-up image. The inflo on that plumeria has grown up nicely and is turning that reddish color now. The new leaves are out. So yay! Its brother/sister, by the way (in the background) is still not doing much. I think one of its claws is bigger. But it's not having problems, either, so...it's just being slow, I guess. Of course, it didn't help that I damaged it when trying to keep it out of my way recently...this is an incredibly crowded balcony. (P.S. I know it's hard to figure out which is part of what when they're like this in a picture.)

On a side note, one of the places I tried to find plumerias at before I got these has them now (or maybe they always did and I missed them)--$90 for no-name plants! They're pink (they claim) and 6 feet, but still, $90? I'm glad I didn't have to wind up buying there.

What causes a leaf to turn yellow? The leaf is only about 2 months old.

You'd be better off posting a new thread to ask that, I think...but too much water or too much food are options. Of course, they'll yellow and drop off at the end of the growing season, but I guess that's not the issue here.

Speaking of new threads, perhaps I need one. But in the meantime, a new shot:

It's a little blurry, but I have a baby bud. I'm curious as to whether one can tell what color it'll be at this point? The bits that aren't that reddish color are pale. Maybe white? I think if it were pink, say, the whole bud would be pink? Also, I assume the nubs out the side are new branches? That'd be good. It needs branches, LOL.

The other one is putting out new leaves--no inflo. And they're taking forever. I assume if it ever produces an inflo, it'd take months to grow...sigh. And boy, its flowers'd better be worth it if it ever does.

Congratulations on your inflo!!!

It is worth the wait!!!

Please post pics here on your thread to follow up on your tree! I am looking forward to seeing more pictures!!!

Great job!!!

We do care!!! : )

Minderella,

It could be nothing, just a leaf that decides to fall off...but if it happens regularly, then i would post a pic for us to see. Are you watering on a wet/dry cycle? Fertilizing yet? Reduced at the first time or two times?

Fast draining mix?

If it is only one, i just pop it off and dont give it another thought, it happens...

Take care,

Laura

I am probably watering too much. It has been so hot here. Should I also have it in half a day sun and half shade? I have about 7 leaves, can I use the Foliage-Pro I bought or wait longer?

Minderella,

When it is dry water it... I know it is warm down in Florida. As long as it is dry before you water again it will be fine. I would use 1/4 tsp of Foliage pro per gallon when you water. You can always increase that dosage to 1/2 tsp this summer. Plumeria like the direct sun, but if you see that the leaves are burning because of the heat, you can move them again. I would give them at least 6 hrs of direct sun. If that is to much for them..then you can adjust.

My trees get as much sunlight as possibe.

Sorry to the Original Poster.. I wanted to answer her questions.

Thanks!

Laura