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kimmiesplummies

Cuttings that has leaves and no roots...

kimmiesplummies
11 years ago

Hi everyone. I decided to dump out a big pot of gang rooted cuttings that's been rooting all through winter most has 4 inch leaves but has no roots yet. Is that common ? So I potted them in their own pot and put back on heat mats. So the bottom has no roots yet but leaves are nice and green. The main question is do I water? Mist? Water sparingly?or not to water?

A couple of other cuttings has claws growing but also shriveled what can I do with these? Can some one help pls.

Comments (4)

  • PRO
    the_first_kms2
    11 years ago

    Could the roots have been sheared off when you removed them?

    I would start the rooting cycle again by a soak in Super Thrive, rooting hormone, replant, and water once. It would seem to me that leaves are going to cause the cutting to loose valuable moisture. Maybe keep it on heat but out of the sun? Or even remove the leaves?

    I didnt quite follow the claws but also shriveled thing.

  • kimmiesplummies
    Original Author
    11 years ago

    Thanks I'll do that and see what happens.

  • lucas2
    11 years ago

    I have a bunch of cuttings sitting on the hot concrete by my pool. The other day I came home to find one of them knocked over and uprooted by my new puppy. The cutting had 3 leafs all about 3 or 4 inches. All roots were gone, I assume sheared off. I put it back in the pot and watered it in and am watching it. So far it hasn't done anything. It is no longer growing, but it is not dying either. I believe it will be stunted but should recover. We will see.

  • tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
    11 years ago

    Leaf and some bloom buds have their own energy supply in the form of starches/carbohydrate nestled at the base of each bud. All that is needed for the buds to open are a water supply and the metabolites already inside the plant to convert the energy source. This process occurs with or without roots, and is why we can prune off branches of dormant blooming plants, like pussy willow, apple, cherry ...... and "force" them to bloom by simply placing them in a vase with water.

    Bud movement and subsequent appearance of leaves or blooms is not a reliable indicator of plants having struck (rooted). When you start a cutting, you're always in a race to get the plumbing supply working, that is the attachment between the newly forming root system and the top of the plant, before rot organisms ruin the show and clog the pipes (vasculature). That's why it's decidedly better to provide a damp but not wet, very well-aerated root environment to discourage any increase in populations of organisms that cause damping off diseases and other fungaluglies you can do w/o.

    Try to avoid tugging or putting any sort of pressure on cuttings you're rooting. Even little tugs break tiny root hairs and can set plants with only the vestige of a root system back considerably. Try to fix the cutting in the pot securely, even if you have to tie or wire it in place so it cannot move in relation to the pot. Secured cuttings will establish in a fraction of the time required by their unsecured counterparts. If you want to be sure your cutting has rooted, wait until you see the second generation of leaves emerging - by the time that happens, your cutting will have developed roots.

    Al

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